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DIY: Headlight Restoration using Clear Coat

Old 07-13-2014, 11:14 PM
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ProStreetDriver
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Default DIY: Headlight Restoration using Clear Coat


Video tutorial on how to refinished hazy/foggy plastic headlights by applying clear coat. This is intended to be a long term method compared to the other two methods which I have done in the past that was the wet sanding/polishing method and the method using strictly toothpaste. The headlights do not need to be removed from the vehicle or disassembled as I have shown the in the vehicle. Removing the headlights from the vehicle does help to eliminate the chance of any over spray from the clear coat or adhesion promoter landing on the paint which would need to be cleaned afterwards.

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (if your headlights are severe)
-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-bucket of soapy water
-isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
-clean lint free cloth
-tape
-paper
-adhesion promoter
-lacquer/clear coat

Procedure:
-if you decided to remove your headlights, start with that step first (headlight removal varies between makes/models of vehicles)
-wash the headlights thoroughly to ensure no contaminants will get into the wet sanding process
-tape off around the perimeter of the headlight lens or vehicles paint to protect it (optional)
-ensure the lens is always well lubricated during the wet sanding process using the soap water
-if your headlights are severely hazy/foggy, wet sand starting with 800 grit and finish with 1000 grit
-if headlights are mildly hazy/foggy, start and finish wet sanding with 1000 grit sand paper
-once satisfied, wash the headlight again to ensure there are no contaminants which would affect the lacquer/clear coat
-once headlight is dry, wipe it down with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol
-tape off the areas you do not want any lacquer/clear coat on
-wipe headlight lens down again with isopropyl/rubbing alcohol, do not touch the lens with your hands (oil from your skin can cause imperfections when apply the lacquer/clear coat)
-use the adhesion promoter to ensure there will be maximum adhesion when applying the lacquer/clear coat
-once adhesion promoter has setup, then go ahead and apply the lacquer/clear coat
-lacquer/clear coat can be applied in 2 coats if you are not planning on wet sanding afterwards
-if you are planning on wet sanding to a polish afterwards, apply 3 coats to ensure there is enough material for the next process
-wet sanding tutorial located here
-be sure to remove any paper or tape after about an hour of setup time
-let the headlight fully harden in the sun for at least 24 hours before the wet sanding and polishing stage
Old 07-14-2014, 04:08 AM
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mr. sparco
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Acrylic clear doesn't last out in the elements. Urethane clear with a catalyst is a more permanent solution. Comes out way nicer. Body shop supply stores can put it in a spray can.
Old 07-14-2014, 07:44 AM
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dcains
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Agreed - post an update in a year, and I think that lacquer will not be looking so sharp. The only advantage of lacquers is that they're easy to work with than catalyst paints, but there's a reason cars aren't painted with lacquer anymore.
Old 07-24-2014, 08:02 AM
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nice video.
Old 07-27-2014, 06:33 PM
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samsniss350z
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I've managed to get rid of my milky/foggy headlight lenses by using wet n dry 2500grit then going up to 3000grit, cleaning the residue off and then using marine UV protectant clear varnish. Boats spend most of their lives out on the water in the sun, with the added reflection of the water. I did this 2 years ago now and they look as good as they did when I first refurbished them.
Old 10-20-2014, 10:01 AM
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Irontimmy
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Originally Posted by samsniss350z
I've managed to get rid of my milky/foggy headlight lenses by using wet n dry 2500grit then going up to 3000grit, cleaning the residue off and then using marine UV protectant clear varnish. Boats spend most of their lives out on the water in the sun, with the added reflection of the water. I did this 2 years ago now and they look as good as they did when I first refurbished them.
I'm going to do ^^^^ this weekend.
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