SPC Toe Bolt install write up with pics courtesy of Protocav. - Page 3 - MY350Z.COM Forums



Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-09-2006, 11:14 AM   #41
JP350Z2004
Registered User
 
JP350Z2004's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 73
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the link to the write up. However, I must diagree with all of you. This is is NOT an easy job. I've done brakes, stainless lines, cat back, intake and tune ups and this is a much higher degree of difficulty. I just did it and it took me about 4 hours for the first side and 2 hours for the second. The lower control arm "camber arm" is not that bad but you will need to drop your sway bar to get to the bolt out. Be sure to loosen both ends of the camber arm before taking it out, you'll need a breaker bar because it's on tight. The Toe bolts suck, at least enlarging the holes sucks. Not only will you need a dremel, you should also get the flexible attatchment "flex shaft" to actually gain clearance. On the driver side I had a hell of a time getting a straight shot to elongate the holes. Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves and long sleeves. I ended up with metal shavings sticking out of my skin like splinters. The end result is that I got it done but am feeling a little ill at the fact my holes are not as nice as the ones in the picture(even thought i tried to follow the template). I'm hoping I haven't permantly damaged my cross member, which is factory welded by the way. Getting it aligned tommorow.
JP350Z2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2006, 11:25 AM   #42
clearsector
Registered User
 
clearsector's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: sinCity
Posts: 234
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP350Z2004
Thanks for the link to the write up. However, I must diagree with all of you. This is is NOT an easy job. I've done brakes, stainless lines, cat back, intake and tune ups and this is a much higher degree of difficulty. I just did it and it took me about 4 hours for the first side and 2 hours for the second. The lower control arm "camber arm" is not that bad but you will need to drop your sway bar to get to the bolt out. Be sure to loosen both ends of the camber arm before taking it out, you'll need a breaker bar because it's on tight. The Toe bolts suck, at least enlarging the holes sucks. Not only will you need a dremel, you should also get the flexible attatchment "flex shaft" to actually gain clearance. On the driver side I had a hell of a time getting a straight shot to elongate the holes. Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves and long sleeves. I ended up with metal shavings sticking out of my skin like splinters. The end result is that I got it done but am feeling a little ill at the fact my holes are not as nice as the ones in the picture(even thought i tried to follow the template). I'm hoping I haven't permantly damaged my cross member, which is factory welded by the way. Getting it aligned tommorow.
Did you use the 115 dremel bit?
clearsector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2006, 09:01 PM   #43
Cyp
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Bay Point
Posts: 394
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

JP350Z2004, let us know how the alignment worked out. I havent installed my toe bolts yet, just did the arms.
Cyp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2006, 06:41 PM   #44
clearsector
Registered User
 
clearsector's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: sinCity
Posts: 234
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

did it today, took me 3.5 hrs.. it was not hard at all.. i'll be getting it alligned this week.. ill post the outcome
clearsector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2006, 08:00 PM   #45
Cyp
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Bay Point
Posts: 394
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

That's great! I still need to buy a dremal and do the toe bolts.
Cyp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2006, 03:23 PM   #46
clearsector
Registered User
 
clearsector's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: sinCity
Posts: 234
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

alignment went smooth.. I couldve had it at 0 camber if i wanted..
clearsector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 06:28 AM   #47
punish_her
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
 
punish_her's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bellevue, Ne
Posts: 2,386
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

The question for me is: How do these work with the GT spec lower rear tie bar brace? Will I need to elongate the brace hole to, or will I be SOL and deal with what I got?

I find it hard to justify chuckin a $130 plus brace for 2 $40 bolts.
punish_her is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 01:30 PM   #48
jcpeyton
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: tucson.az
Posts: 638
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

A very good question, punish her. While waiting for release of the front arms and hoping to install f+r at the same time, I've been wondering the same thing.
jcpeyton is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2006, 05:06 PM   #49
punish_her
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
 
punish_her's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bellevue, Ne
Posts: 2,386
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcpeyton
A very good question, punish her. While waiting for release of the front arms and hoping to install f+r at the same time, I've been wondering the same thing.
I was looking through some older photo's, since I'm not home; an dI was noticing another limiting factor. The cam bolt itself, the clearenc on the inside of the cup with the factory cam bolt was pretty tight. You may have to remove material from the cam bolt as well as the brace to get the desired travel.

This is the rough part about the GT SPEC braces. Only a few people have them and many factors are not the same (wheels dimensions, suspentio adjustments, ride height, etc.) so we do not have a solid comparison to go buy. A guy at stock ride height with stock wheels has no issues with the alignment process. A guy with much widder wheels, fully adjustable suspention and a drop may have issues just getting it to -1.6. Yeah this may not me a bad thing to some. However, if one has access to a free alignment hook up and wants to run road coarses one day and 1/4 drags another; they both have widely diffrent optimal camber settings.
punish_her is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2006, 01:17 PM   #50
ktown z
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
 
ktown z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 404
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I just bought the camber arm and not the toe bolt. My car is not lowered and I want the camber to be at 0 in the rear. Is the camber arm sufficient for this or do I nedd the toe bolt also?
ktown z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 07:51 AM   #51
SBT
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fairfield, NJ
Posts: 380
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?

is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
SBT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 08:28 AM   #52
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,378
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SBT
can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?

is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?
In laymans terms. When you lower your car it affects the camber and toe settings of the wheel. The only PROPER way to correct the toe setting is to install these.
MIAPLAYA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 08:57 AM   #53
SBT
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fairfield, NJ
Posts: 380
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
In laymans terms. When you lower your car it affects the camber and toe settings of the wheel. The only PROPER way to correct the toe setting is to install these.
so this is not an issue on a stock vehicle?
SBT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 09:13 AM   #54
JDMFairlady21
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
 
JDMFairlady21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LI, NY
Posts: 2,853
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

is it advisable to get the alignment right after installation?
JDMFairlady21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 02:40 PM   #55
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,378
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SBT
so this is not an issue on a stock vehicle?
If the car is 100% factory stock and not lowered at all no you don't need this.
MIAPLAYA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 02:40 PM   #56
MIAPLAYA
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
 
MIAPLAYA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Escondido
Posts: 11,378
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDMFairlady21
is it advisable to get the alignment right after installation?
Yes absolutely. When you install the toe bolts you are going to throw the toe setting so far out of whack its retarded.
MIAPLAYA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2006, 01:46 PM   #57
Zquicksilver
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
Zquicksilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,172
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SBT
can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?

is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?

This is one reason you may want it... my personal experience.
http://chicagoz.com/v-web/bulletin/b...pic.php?t=5106


Mia and Proactv, thanks for the ToeBolt write-up, good info! This illustration may help with clarification of parts.





Zquicksivler

Last edited by Zquicksilver; 08-18-2006 at 01:55 PM.
Zquicksilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2006, 04:13 PM   #58
Zquicksilver
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
Zquicksilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,172
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quick question...

Protocav states that you only need to open the toe-bolt slots inboard and to not waste your time with drilling the slots outboard.

Will this give me enough range +/- with the SPC toe bolt? I'm assuming the toe-bolt slots only need to be opened inboard when trying to achieve less camber and a proper alignment?

TIA,
Zquicksilver

Last edited by Zquicksilver; 08-29-2006 at 04:26 PM.
Zquicksilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 10:35 PM   #59
Skrilla
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
 
Skrilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Arlington
Posts: 370
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

if someone could provide me the length of the toe bolts I bet I could fabricate sets...thanks
Skrilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2007, 08:00 AM   #60
redlude97
Registered User
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Seattle/Portland
Posts: 2,755
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skrilla
if someone could provide me the length of the toe bolts I bet I could fabricate sets...thanks
Whats the point though, they only cost like $40 now, the savings couldn't be that significant
redlude97 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
JMS Racing Twin Turbo VQ35HR MM'08_350Z VQ35HR 225 03-08-2017 03:50 PM
Oil change with aftermarket oil cooler XM 1 Engine & Drivetrain 11 10-01-2015 10:44 PM


Tags
350z, arms, bolt, camber, coilover, g35, g35driver, instal, install, instructions, pictures, rear, spc, template, toe

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 07:56 PM.


Copyright 2002 - 2008, MY350Z.COM All Rights Reserved.