JP350Z2004

Thanks for the link to the write up. However, I must diagree with all of you. This is is NOT an easy job. I've done brakes, stainless lines, cat back, intake and tune ups and this is a much higher degree of difficulty. I just did it and it took me about 4 hours for the first side and 2 hours for the second. The lower control arm "camber arm" is not that bad but you will need to drop your sway bar to get to the bolt out. Be sure to loosen both ends of the camber arm before taking it out, you'll need a breaker bar because it's on tight. The Toe bolts suck, at least enlarging the holes sucks. Not only will you need a dremel, you should also get the flexible attatchment "flex shaft" to actually gain clearance. On the driver side I had a hell of a time getting a straight shot to elongate the holes. Be sure to wear eye protection, gloves and long sleeves. I ended up with metal shavings sticking out of my skin like splinters. The end result is that I got it done but am feeling a little ill at the fact my holes are not as nice as the ones in the picture(even thought i tried to follow the template). I'm hoping I haven't permantly damaged my cross member, which is factory welded by the way. Getting it aligned tommorow.

clearsector

Did you use the 115 dremel bit?

Cyp

iTrader: (3)

JP350Z2004, let us know how the alignment worked out. I havent installed my toe bolts yet, just did the arms.

clearsector

did it today, took me 3.5 hrs.. it was not hard at all.. i'll be getting it alligned this week.. ill post the outcome

Cyp

iTrader: (3)

That's great! I still need to buy a dremal and do the toe bolts.

clearsector

alignment went smooth.. I couldve had it at 0 camber if i wanted..

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

The question for me is: How do these work with the GT spec lower rear tie bar brace? Will I need to elongate the brace hole to, or will I be SOL and deal with what I got?

I find it hard to justify chuckin a $130 plus brace for 2 $40 bolts.

jcpeyton

iTrader: (1)

A very good question, punish her. While waiting for release of the front arms and hoping to install f+r at the same time, I've been wondering the same thing.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

I was looking through some older photo's, since I'm not home; an dI was noticing another limiting factor. The cam bolt itself, the clearenc on the inside of the cup with the factory cam bolt was pretty tight. You may have to remove material from the cam bolt as well as the brace to get the desired travel.

This is the rough part about the GT SPEC braces. Only a few people have them and many factors are not the same (wheels dimensions, suspentio adjustments, ride height, etc.) so we do not have a solid comparison to go buy. A guy at stock ride height with stock wheels has no issues with the alignment process. A guy with much widder wheels, fully adjustable suspention and a drop may have issues just getting it to -1.6. Yeah this may not me a bad thing to some. However, if one has access to a free alignment hook up and wants to run road coarses one day and 1/4 drags another; they both have widely diffrent optimal camber settings.

ktown z

iTrader: (8)

I just bought the camber arm and not the toe bolt. My car is not lowered and I want the camber to be at 0 in the rear. Is the camber arm sufficient for this or do I nedd the toe bolt also?

SBT

can someone put the reason why you would want this in layman's terms?

is this the only way to solve the tire feathering issue ? or is this for something else?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

In laymans terms. When you lower your car it affects the camber and toe settings of the wheel. The only PROPER way to correct the toe setting is to install these.

SBT

so this is not an issue on a stock vehicle?

JDMFairlady21

iTrader: (9)

is it advisable to get the alignment right after installation?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

If the car is 100% factory stock and not lowered at all no you don't need this.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Yes absolutely. When you install the toe bolts you are going to throw the toe setting so far out of whack its retarded.

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

This is one reason you may want it... my personal experience.
http://chicagoz.com/v-web/bulletin/b...pic.php?t=5106


Mia and Proactv, thanks for the ToeBolt write-up, good info! This illustration may help with clarification of parts.





Zquicksivler

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

Quick question...

Protocav states that you only need to open the toe-bolt slots inboard and to not waste your time with drilling the slots outboard.

Will this give me enough range +/- with the SPC toe bolt? I'm assuming the toe-bolt slots only need to be opened inboard when trying to achieve less camber and a proper alignment?

TIA,
Zquicksilver

Skrilla

iTrader: (15)

if someone could provide me the length of the toe bolts I bet I could fabricate sets...thanks

redlude97

iTrader: (11)

Whats the point though, they only cost like $40 now, the savings couldn't be that significant