DIY 350Z Track, Rotor and Pad Install, and System Bleed. - Page 3 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 03-04-2009, 09:43 AM   #41
guitman32
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Another note: If you aren't using a Motive Power Bleeder (i.e. using the conventional 2 person pump-bleed-hold-close-repeat method), try and keep your bleed catch container above the level of the bleed valve (the ones you can buy at AutoZone/Advanced have a magnet which works well).

This will be added insurance to help prevent air from entering your braking system
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:24 AM   #42
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Can we get the pics back up again OP?
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Old 04-16-2009, 11:34 AM   #43
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2nd that
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Old 04-19-2009, 12:21 PM   #44
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My rotors were a complete biatch to take off. Even after loosening the rear parking brake shoes bolt. I could not for my life get the rotor to come off. Had to use my breaker bar, get behind the rotor and put it against the bracket that holds onto the caliper itself. And break it loose. It was tough. WD40/PB didn't work for me. They were seized/rusted on there pretty dang good.
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:41 AM   #45
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Just to let you guys know that I saved OP's original write-up with pics in my C file.
I can't seem to figure out how to transfer the link here.
If anyone is interested in sugarspun's pics & etc. just send me an email: salvucci@windstream.net
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:57 PM   #46
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Alright guys, LISTEN UP!

You don't need WD-40 and you don't need to hit your rear rotors, just read this.
I spent about 3 hours trying to get one of the rear rotors off, after I found out the trick, the other took about 10 minutes.

Here's what you do:
As I'm sure you know, there are 4 bolts to take off to remove the caliper and the caliper arm. We're going to concentrate on the holes that the BIGGER bolts go in that hold the caliper arm.

What you need is a bolt that can fit in that hole, some washers, and a nut that fits that bolt. (I used a 5/16)

Now what you do is put the bolt through the hole so that the head of the bolt is facing the inside of the car and the bolt is pointing toward the rotor. Put a washer on both ends of the bolt. Then you put something hard in between the bolt and your rotor and you hold a wrench on the nut while you tighten the bolt. It will put pressure on the rotor until eventually, "POP!" it comes right off! This works great, I wish I would've known this before all the frustration that I went through.


Hope I made it clear enough, good luck!
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Old 04-28-2009, 01:20 PM   #47
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OP, pics please. I'm going to install a set of bbk in a few days, and I have no clue how to do any of this stuff...
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:35 PM   #48
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sorry guys. i guess my putfile account is dead. i found the pics last weekend and will put them up tonight or tomorrow. i will post them directly to this site so they will not disappear again.
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Old 05-03-2009, 02:49 PM   #49
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pics are back up.
sorry guys for any inconvenience.
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:54 AM   #50
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Quick question, i just installed new Front Rotors and Pads this weekend but i did not bleed the system... Car only has 10k miles on it... Is it necessary to bleed the system?
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:15 PM   #51
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that is a great write up

i am going to install my stoptech stage 2 this weekend

can you reuse the stock shims...and are the shims one size fits all or are there different sized shims for different pads?
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:27 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kham25 View Post
Quick question, i just installed new Front Rotors and Pads this weekend but i did not bleed the system... Car only has 10k miles on it... Is it necessary to bleed the system?
Depends. If you're going to see any track/autox duty or even canyon runs or similar you would benefit from flushing to a high temp brake fluid such as RBF600 (top of the line) or ATE Super Blue (good price/performance compromise). If she's just your workhorse (hah! the Z a workhorse - with what trunk room) then I would skip the bleed.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:25 PM   #53
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great write up , will use in future.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:33 AM   #54
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Great write up. I am doing this in a few days. Didn't think it was this easy, thought it would be harder because of the "Brembos" Guess I was completely wrong.
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Old 08-11-2009, 12:30 AM   #55
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I'm at work and dont have much time to read this. Just curious, how is the dust on these pads? Mine are REDICULOUS, just a few miles and I need to wash my wheels again.
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:20 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarspunZ View Post
When bleeding your brake system you want to start with the wheel that is furthest away from
the driver. Bleed in the following order.
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
Left Front
typically this is true but according to the manual you would bleed the brakes "from the right rear, front left, rear left, and front right tires, in that order."
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:58 PM   #57
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Here's a copy-and-past from the FSM .pdf. The CORRECT bleeding order is explained below:

Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0
CAUTION: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.

3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.

4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.

5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.

6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.

7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
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Old 08-26-2011, 11:43 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jinsei888 View Post
here's a copy-and-past from the fsm .pdf. The correct bleeding order is explained below:

bleeding brake system afs000u0
caution: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the off position.

2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.

3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.

4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.

5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.

6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.

7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
+1 !!

Bumped to re-iterate that this is misquoted multiple times in the thread.
My 2003 factory service manual reads exactly as above.
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:47 PM   #59
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Last edited by holycrap; 12-06-2011 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:57 AM   #60
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Why is it that it's in that particular order? I've done it that way and also another order and everything was just fine. The most important thing is not to let the reservoir run low.
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