DIY 350Z Track, Rotor and Pad Install, and System Bleed.
03-04-2009, 09:43 AM
#41
Another note: If you aren't using a Motive Power Bleeder (i.e. using the conventional 2 person pump-bleed-hold-close-repeat method), try and keep your bleed catch container above the level of the bleed valve (the ones you can buy at AutoZone/Advanced have a magnet which works well).
This will be added insurance to help prevent air from entering your braking system
This will be added insurance to help prevent air from entering your braking system
04-19-2009, 12:21 PM
#44
My rotors were a complete biatch to take off. Even after loosening the rear parking brake shoes bolt. I could not for my life get the rotor to come off. Had to use my breaker bar, get behind the rotor and put it against the bracket that holds onto the caliper itself. And break it loose. It was tough. WD40/PB didn't work for me. They were seized/rusted on there pretty dang good.
04-21-2009, 06:41 AM
#45
Just to let you guys know that I saved OP's original write-up with pics in my C file.
I can't seem to figure out how to transfer the link here.
If anyone is interested in sugarspun's pics & etc. just send me an email: salvucci@windstream.net
I can't seem to figure out how to transfer the link here.
If anyone is interested in sugarspun's pics & etc. just send me an email: salvucci@windstream.net
04-22-2009, 10:57 PM
#46
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Alright guys, LISTEN UP!
You don't need WD-40 and you don't need to hit your rear rotors, just read this.
I spent about 3 hours trying to get one of the rear rotors off, after I found out the trick, the other took about 10 minutes.
Here's what you do:
As I'm sure you know, there are 4 bolts to take off to remove the caliper and the caliper arm. We're going to concentrate on the holes that the BIGGER bolts go in that hold the caliper arm.
What you need is a bolt that can fit in that hole, some washers, and a nut that fits that bolt. (I used a 5/16)
Now what you do is put the bolt through the hole so that the head of the bolt is facing the inside of the car and the bolt is pointing toward the rotor. Put a washer on both ends of the bolt. Then you put something hard in between the bolt and your rotor and you hold a wrench on the nut while you tighten the bolt. It will put pressure on the rotor until eventually, "POP!" it comes right off! This works great, I wish I would've known this before all the frustration that I went through.
Hope I made it clear enough, good luck!
You don't need WD-40 and you don't need to hit your rear rotors, just read this.
I spent about 3 hours trying to get one of the rear rotors off, after I found out the trick, the other took about 10 minutes.
Here's what you do:
As I'm sure you know, there are 4 bolts to take off to remove the caliper and the caliper arm. We're going to concentrate on the holes that the BIGGER bolts go in that hold the caliper arm.
What you need is a bolt that can fit in that hole, some washers, and a nut that fits that bolt. (I used a 5/16)
Now what you do is put the bolt through the hole so that the head of the bolt is facing the inside of the car and the bolt is pointing toward the rotor. Put a washer on both ends of the bolt. Then you put something hard in between the bolt and your rotor and you hold a wrench on the nut while you tighten the bolt. It will put pressure on the rotor until eventually, "POP!" it comes right off! This works great, I wish I would've known this before all the frustration that I went through.
Hope I made it clear enough, good luck!
05-06-2009, 06:15 PM
#51
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that is a great write up
i am going to install my stoptech stage 2 this weekend
can you reuse the stock shims...and are the shims one size fits all or are there different sized shims for different pads?
i am going to install my stoptech stage 2 this weekend
can you reuse the stock shims...and are the shims one size fits all or are there different sized shims for different pads?
05-06-2009, 09:27 PM
#52
Depends. If you're going to see any track/autox duty or even canyon runs or similar you would benefit from flushing to a high temp brake fluid such as RBF600 (top of the line) or ATE Super Blue (good price/performance compromise). If she's just your workhorse (hah! the Z a workhorse - with what trunk room) then I would skip the bleed.
08-11-2009, 12:30 AM
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I'm at work and dont have much time to read this. Just curious, how is the dust on these pads? Mine are REDICULOUS, just a few miles and I need to wash my wheels again.
08-11-2009, 08:20 AM
#56
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typically this is true but according to the manual you would bleed the brakes "from the right rear, front left, rear left, and front right tires, in that order."
03-17-2011, 09:58 PM
#57
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Here's a copy-and-past from the FSM .pdf. The CORRECT bleeding order is explained below:
Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0
CAUTION: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
Bleeding Brake System AFS000U0
CAUTION: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
08-26-2011, 11:43 AM
#58
here's a copy-and-past from the fsm .pdf. The correct bleeding order is explained below:
bleeding brake system afs000u0
caution: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the off position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
bleeding brake system afs000u0
caution: While bleeding, pay attention to master cylinder fluid level.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the off position.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear left air bleeder.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With the brake pedal depressed, loosen the air bleeder to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3, 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten the air bleeder to the specified torque.
7. In steps 2 to 6 below, with the master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air from the front right, rear right, and front left tires, in that order.
Bumped to re-iterate that this is misquoted multiple times in the thread.
My 2003 factory service manual reads exactly as above.
