DIY: Akebono BBK Installation on 03-07 G/Z - Page 2 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 07-20-2009, 09:28 PM   #21
OMEGA46
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Ended up cutting down the length of the OEM Bolt and it works. Also I have the Infiniti Kit, and bled the System 3 times and I still have an intial soft pedal. A good friend has both the 370Z and G37S and said the Nissan Akebono Calipers are much better in regard to feel. Is this true?
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMEGA46 View Post
Ended up cutting down the length of the OEM Bolt and it works. Also I have the Infiniti Kit, and bled the System 3 times and I still have an intial soft pedal. A good friend has both the 370Z and G37S and said the Nissan Akebono Calipers are much better in regard to feel. Is this true?
They're supposed to be the same part except the lettering/paint. I think?

I drove my 370z and my brother's G37S back to back several times, there wasn't a noticeable difference.

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Old 07-21-2009, 04:02 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMEGA46 View Post
Ended up cutting down the length of the OEM Bolt and it works. Also I have the Infiniti Kit, and bled the System 3 times and I still have an intial soft pedal. A good friend has both the 370Z and G37S and said the Nissan Akebono Calipers are much better in regard to feel. Is this true?
If you let the brake system completely bleed to dry then may the lord have mercy on your soul. Good luck getting all that air out without a speed bleeder
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:30 AM   #24
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What is the pad thickness and rotor thickness on this kit? Does anyone know?
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Old 09-01-2009, 02:49 PM   #25
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Tried to test fit my kit today, and I could NOT get the front caliper bolts loose to pull the stock caliper off. I sprayed it about 4 times with PB blaster, AND used my impact wrench and couldn't get it to even loosen up. Anyone have any tricks or tips to help get those bolts loose?? Thanks in advance.

-Paul
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Old 09-01-2009, 03:32 PM   #26
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Tried to test fit my kit today, and I could NOT get the front caliper bolts loose to pull the stock caliper off. I sprayed it about 4 times with PB blaster, AND used my impact wrench and couldn't get it to even loosen up. Anyone have any tricks or tips to help get those bolts loose?? Thanks in advance.

-Paul
Have you tried a breaker bar? Or a cheater bar over your ratchet?
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Old 09-01-2009, 06:01 PM   #27
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Yea I tried my breaker bar, But I mean the impact wrench probably would have done more to that bolt than I could with the breaker bar....so those things must be REALLY bolted on there, or just stuck so tight from never being loosened.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:43 AM   #28
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Heat it up with a small propane torch? I would try to use a very long cheater bar first though.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:49 AM   #29
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I find it hard to believe that a Air Impact can't get those off. I can do it with my hands and hand tools. Could you be trying a air rachet not a impact? If so, most of those only do around 50lb of TQ and that's not near enough to get those off.

Like some have said. Breaker bar. Or a PIPE that can slip over your rachet.
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Old 09-04-2009, 09:38 AM   #30
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Yeup it was definitely my impact wrench/gun. I couldn't believe it either. Usually it takes like two hits or less and the bolts are loose. But it wouldn't budge. I'll try the breaker bar again I guess. Otherwise I'll try the torch....? Or take it to the dealer to see if they can get em : /


Just painted my calipers yesterday. They came out WAAAYYY better than I thought they would. They look like they were powdercoated. I took some pictures, and I'm going to type up another DIY for caliper painting. Can't wait to get the decals on and get them installed.
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Old 09-25-2009, 10:01 PM   #31
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how long does this take? I have everything sitting in my closet waiting to do this but afraid to start and it take more than 4+ hrs. I've done entire brake swaps on civics drum to disk and have a good amount of mechanical knowledge, I do all my own maintenance and work on my street bike as well... I've repinned the entire wiring harness of a couple cars etc. I haven't done anything with the 350z braking system and the 2 bleeders per caliper is foreign to me.
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Old 09-28-2009, 10:17 AM   #32
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how long does this take? I have everything sitting in my closet waiting to do this but afraid to start and it take more than 4+ hrs. I've done entire brake swaps on civics drum to disk and have a good amount of mechanical knowledge, I do all my own maintenance and work on my street bike as well... I've repinned the entire wiring harness of a couple cars etc. I haven't done anything with the 350z braking system and the 2 bleeders per caliper is foreign to me.
The longest parts are getting the OEM rotors off and trimming or removing the dust shields. If you only have 4 hours to do the install then I suggest you spray your rotors with PB Blaster a day in advance. Take the wheels off and get all around the lug nuts and behind the rotor. Make sure you hit the crap out of them with a rubber mallett. Just when you think they aren't going to come off hit them more! They will eventually come off. The 2 bleeders per caliper is because this is a fixed caliper, not sliding. You bleed it the same way, just two times per caliper instead of 1. It really isn't difficult, just a PITA removing the rotors.
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Old 10-26-2009, 06:26 AM   #33
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Nice write up. I am looking to perform an BBK upgrade to my Z; however, I am currently contemplating brands (e.g. APC, Brembo, Megan Racing, etc.). How long did it take you to complete the install?
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:44 AM   #34
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Nice write up. I am looking to perform an BBK upgrade to my Z; however, I am currently contemplating brands (e.g. APC, Brembo, Megan Racing, etc.). How long did it take you to complete the install?

A couple of hours, basic hand tools needed. Like I said before, the most difficult part is cutting or removing the dust shields and removing the rear rotors. Besides that it's just a remove and replace operation.
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Old 01-16-2010, 07:27 AM   #35
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Great DIY. Though one big warning to others.

Draining your system completely is a big NO NO. Close off the lines, do not drain them, then bleed them once they are reconnected to the new calipers. ABS systems have a lot of passages and your Master Cylinder and draining it completely you could get air the system and never be able to get it out without professional equipment.

Also the front Dust shields can be unbolted (4 bolts if I recall). No need to cut them off.

i think the guy thats putting on my brakes did this and the pedal is still soft. we bleeded them more than 4 times each and no more air is coming out. we also used the pump but still the pedal feels spongy what else can i do to get the air out and pedal feeling stock? any help would be thankful! thanks!
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Old 01-16-2010, 09:36 AM   #36
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I think you would have to get your brake master cylinder bench bled...
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:16 PM   #37
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i just ordered motive speed bleeder hope it works pfregeolle how i do that?
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:24 PM   #38
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No idea, I just remember reading online that in some cases, if all the fluid is drained then the brake master cylinder would have to be bench bled. I assume this means professionally.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:30 AM   #39
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To get the front rotors without hammering away there is a small screw with a spacer attached to the rotor remove it with a socket wrench slide off the spacer and screw back in the hole and the screw will push the rotor off without any hassle Today i start on the rears Hope this helps
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:08 AM   #40
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hey i just received my kit... now as soon as weather gets better i will try to do the instal... its a great write up definately good reference to look at while i do it... also i noticed i think i m missing some pins... i guess the vendor forgot to ship it, but i contacted them lets see what happens.. but i think it should be a cheap piece that i can get it at auto shops... lets hope its not something too expensinve...
btw this is the piece thats missing,... any idea where i can get this?
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