Just finished my install of Eibach Pro-Kit springs on my Coupe. I did it one tire at a time. Torque spec on tire lugnuts: 80ft/lb.
The following is a post copied from Gsedan35 over in FreshAlloy. He installed springs and struts from a 350Z. I only installed Eibach springs on my Coupe. It is edited to be specific to the coupe.
"I did this to help anyone wanting to do this themselves. If any moderator would like to edit this in anyway to improve it and place it in the FAQ section, to right ahead.
This is how "I" did it. You can do your own thing where it makes sense to do so.
1/2" ratchet (3/8")
misc 1/2" extensions (3/8")
17mm box end wrench
power tool is VERY helpful in removing front strut from spring
torque wrench (if you are as paranoid as I am)
Jack up car using factory jack. Remove wheel and tire. Now place floor jack below the rear lower link that the coil spring is located in and use the jack to hold the spring in place, raising it up a 1/8" or so. Refer to the picture I have provided and remove the nut and bolt to the rear lower link (blue arrow). Remove bolt from bottom of strut mount (red arrow). Picture is from above looking down.
Vinh's NOTE: There is NO need to remove the bolt depicted in red if you are only installing springs.
Work out bolt, it will come out without damaging the threads. Now slowly lower the rear lower link, watch the floor jack to see when this suspension part stops going down, make sure the floor jack keeps on touching it.
To get the coil spring out. Loosen the nut in the green arrow, NOT the bolt. The bolt is fixed. It does NOT need to be removed. Once it is loose, you should be able to lower the floor jack and remove the rear spring.
Install in reverse order. HINT #1: Use your floor jack to raise parts up to match up various bolt holes. Repeat process on other side of rear suspension. Hint #2: Compared to the OEM spring, the upper part of the new spring is not flush. Hint #3: Just ensure the spring is properly seated in the bottom of the suspension member. Hint #4: You WILL NEED to bang things around because everything fits snugly, ie. the rear lower link connection to the "wheel?" Hint #5: Here are the torque specs for the bolts involved:
1) Bolt depicted in blue: 48-59 ft/lb
2) Bolt depicted in green: 48-59 ft/lb
3) ONLY for those removing the strut, bolt in red: 74-88 ft/lb
Unbolt the 3 12mm upper strut mount bolts from under the hood, set them aside as to NOT misplace them.
Unbolt the 12mm bolt holding the brake line on the strut, set nut aside and pull brake line off the strut. Look at pic with red arrow for brake line location.
Remove the speed sensor line from the strut in the 2 places it attaches to the strut via compression fittings (just pull)(blue arrow) Remove the nut and bolt from the bottom of the strut(red arrow) It will come out, but will be difficult. Use floor jack to line things up. Remove the bolt holding the swaybar end link to the suspension arm(green arrow) NOTE: The bolt for the end link will NOT come out yet, DO NOT TRY!
Now you get to use the spring compressor. Your goal will be to compress enough of the spring so that you can remove the sway bar end link bolt (hard work, need to bang it out). Once your able to do that you should have enough clearance to be able to remove the whole spring/strut/spring compressor assembly. NOTE BE CAREFUL, watch out for the speed sensor line, DO NOT tear it appart. Trying to make space to remove this assembly is gonna give you a headache. Keep perservering. I've seen people put the factory jack between their fender and the upper link to create more space. I did this and slightly dented the inside of the fender (not noticeable because the fender lining covers it up.
If only installing springs, you'll need to remove the center bolt located on the strut/spring assembly. This is wear having a power tool helps. I didn't try removing the bold with hand tools. BE CAREFUL. This is where the spring can shoot out.
Install your new springs ensuring everything sits properly. There are grooves in the rubber upper seat that should match up with the spring. Ensure everything is lined up. Push down on the mounting insulator and install the center bolt. Tighten as much as possible. You should tighten this bolt later after the assembly is installed and the car is lowered.
Install everything back in the reverse order. Again, putting back this assembly is also a pain in the butt. The springs may be shorter than OEM, but still a pain.
HINT #1: Be Patient. Removing and installing the spring/strut assembly is difficult. HINT #2: The gray plastic thing (bump stops?) stays on the OEM spring. The Eibachs do not need these. HINT #3: Again, use your factory jack to line up parts with bolts. HINT #4: Torque Spec for bolts:
1)3 12 mm upper strut mount bolts: 26-30 ft/lb
2)12 mm bolt for nrake line: Can't find, but probably 10 ft/lb
3)Bolt from bottom of strut (Pic 4 red arrow): 52-62 ft/lb
4)Bolt connect sway bar end link to suspension arm (Pic 4 green arrow): 59-70 ft/lb
5)Center bolt of strut/spring assembly: 40-47 ft/lb
I hope this helps someone as much as Gsedan35's original instructions helped me. His pictures are what made it easier. Sorry I couldn't take any pics other than the one Gsedan35 provided.
I worked with a friend and it took us about 7 hours to do the job. The most difficult part was getting the strut/spring assembly out. Other diffcult parts was figuring out how to remove the bolts indicated by #3 and #4. After doing the first one, you'll know what needs to be done and the second one should be easier. It took us almost 4 hours to remove the strut/spring assembly
This IS NOT a project you want to take on ONLY if you want to save money. Only start this project if you get satisfaction out of working on your own car. As you can see, the time to money saved ratio is high.
Like others have reported, the ride feels stock. Appearance is dramatic. Looks amazing. I don't know if it's just me, but the springs surprisingly dropped my car lower than I was expecting. I like it better. Can't imagine what it is going to look like after it settles. Negative camber is definitely noticeable. I will get it aligned after the SoCal meet.
As far as lighting,
PIAA Extreme White Wedge 19172: Good match to HID. Some of the pics make it look blue, but it looks good to me. Well worth the $11
Sylvania 9003ST: Still looks yellow compared to HID, but less yellow compared to stock. Not worth the $43.00. But nice to be different.
PICTURES TO BE POSTED AT A LATER DATE
Wow, long post.
6MT Coupe, DG/G, Prem