DIY - Solid Subframe Bushing Install - Sikky Manf bushings
02-13-2011, 06:16 AM
#41
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Where can I get these? I just installed my quaife and spl diff bushings but I wanna do the subframe bushings before I track it this spring. And I would prefer these solid ones over the whiteline polys.
02-14-2011, 09:49 AM
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Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 02-14-2011 at 09:55 AM.
03-17-2011, 08:27 AM
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I have the whiteline subframe bushings but I am really thinking about buying the sikky raised bushings. I dont care about increased vibrations or anything but would like the benefit of raising the subframe for better geometry. Doing the swap by yourself sucks major buttocks btw.
03-30-2011, 10:15 PM
#47
Damn, I just bought the bushings from Whiteline. I probably would have preferred this if the noise isn't horrible. I guess I should just subscribe to Jason to get the latest info. 
Great writeup again. Thanks!
I'm going to put a 4.08 final drive and Os Giken LSD in at the same time as I change the bushings (I will take the pumpkin to a shop). Is it easier to drop the differential first?
Great writeup again. Thanks!I'm going to put a 4.08 final drive and Os Giken LSD in at the same time as I change the bushings (I will take the pumpkin to a shop). Is it easier to drop the differential first?
Last edited by 350z-Helsinki; 03-30-2011 at 10:16 PM.
03-30-2011, 10:21 PM
#48
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Damn, I just bought the bushings from Whiteline. I probably would have preferred this if the noise isn't horrible. I guess I should just subscribe to Jason to get the latest info. Great writeup again. Thanks!
I'm going to put a 4.08 final drive and Os Giken LSD in at the same time as I change the bushings (I will take the pumpkin to a shop). Is it easier to drop the differential first?
Great writeup again. Thanks!I'm going to put a 4.08 final drive and Os Giken LSD in at the same time as I change the bushings (I will take the pumpkin to a shop). Is it easier to drop the differential first?
with that line up of mods, with our without solid sikky bushings isnt gonna matter......i say sell the whiteline crap and get all solid...
I have solid diff bushings and the sikky solid subframe raised bushings.....I love how my car tracks!! love it!
-J
03-31-2011, 08:05 AM
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My sikky bushings just came in yesterday Im going to try to sell my whitelines. If I would have seen the sikky in the first place thats what I would have gotten.
Im going to try to sell my whitelines. If I would have seen the sikky in the first place thats what I would have gotten.
09-28-2011, 05:38 PM
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Thanks for posting this DIY. My bushings come in Friday, I'll be working through the weekend but the weekend after I'll be installing mine and I'll try to take some pictures of the E-brake cable procedure. I'll send them to you so you can make this even better. Any other pictures you want while I do mine just let me know.
12-08-2011, 07:06 PM
#52
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Recommended mods to do at the same time!
From my post here:
https://my350z.com/forum/9041267-post18.html
When you have the subframe out, these two mods are well worth the time/money and effort....
1. Diff breather hose catch can
2. Diff remote fill port
see here:
and
If you have the subframe down, then you wont need the long drill bit....
-J
https://my350z.com/forum/9041267-post18.html
When you have the subframe out, these two mods are well worth the time/money and effort....
1. Diff breather hose catch can
2. Diff remote fill port
Talking on maintenance....I did the following to make diff fluid changes super easy!
I have the Nismo diff set at 2way.....I primarly hit up drift events so its what the doctor ordered! I love it and wouldnt change it for anything!!! Its loud clunky but performs spot on!!
I have the Nismo diff set at 2way.....I primarly hit up drift events so its what the doctor ordered! I love it and wouldnt change it for anything!!! Its loud clunky but performs spot on!!
see here:
At drift events I loose only a few ounces of diff fluid when the diff starts to cook....
The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........
Subframe OEM breather line:
Target hard clear plastic water bottle:
I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.
Bottle cage mounted:
I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.
To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......
REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!
I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...
This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....
Thought i would share my progress thus far....
-J
The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........
Subframe OEM breather line:
Target hard clear plastic water bottle:
I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.
Bottle cage mounted:
I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.
To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......
REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!
I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...
This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....
Thought i would share my progress thus far....
-J
I worked a little today on my Diff fill port:
This is just mocked up....you can see the end on the right isnt crimped....once i determine the length I need ill cut and crimp it.
From left to right on that hose its:
M18x1.5 to AN10
AN10 90 degree crimped to
kevlar hose
AN10 straight fitting - not crimped yet
AN10 blue bulkhead break through and nut
AN10 black CAP
I drilled a pilot hole with a super long drill bit here and then opened it up big from the other side using a step drill bit:
I plan on filling my diff using this inside the hatch:
-J
This is just mocked up....you can see the end on the right isnt crimped....once i determine the length I need ill cut and crimp it.
From left to right on that hose its:
M18x1.5 to AN10
AN10 90 degree crimped to
kevlar hose
AN10 straight fitting - not crimped yet
AN10 blue bulkhead break through and nut
AN10 black CAP
I drilled a pilot hole with a super long drill bit here and then opened it up big from the other side using a step drill bit:
I plan on filling my diff using this inside the hatch:
-J
-J
06-07-2012, 08:04 PM
#53
I apologize for bumping an old thread but after cleaning my exhaust today, I noticed that my Solid Subframe Bushing is leaking around the edges.
My questions are what does the solid subframe bushing do?
I read about sikky and whiteline... Sikky being noisey and not much info on spl whiteline. Anyone recommend a certain product, and if so, why? Thanks guys
My questions are what does the solid subframe bushing do?
I read about sikky and whiteline... Sikky being noisey and not much info on spl whiteline. Anyone recommend a certain product, and if so, why? Thanks guys
06-09-2012, 09:53 AM
#54
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04-24-2013, 12:50 PM
#55
https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...hing-sets.html
Sikky Bushing review:
The bushings were top notch!........not a high press fit, they easily hammered into place and had tapered edges for easy installation! Price was right......if any higher i would have made them myself as i have machine shop access.
Drive review to come - haven't lowered the car yet as other mods are in the works while its up on stands.
-J
Sikky Bushing review:
The bushings were top notch!........not a high press fit, they easily hammered into place and had tapered edges for easy installation! Price was right......if any higher i would have made them myself as i have machine shop access.
Drive review to come - haven't lowered the car yet as other mods are in the works while its up on stands.
-J
07-22-2015, 05:00 PM
#56
Yes, I know this thread is years old! but i found it because I just installed my subframe bushing the same sikky ones. I will say, they must have changed them, because mine did NOT hammer in place, that would be impossible. I had to use a 20 ton press and even with that it was not cake, the press was still working hard. Yet one bushing, top just slid in freely by hand!!! Also, when installing the subframe, i made sure to do it evenly, and it did not line up with the 4 pins well. I had to jack it up and use a dead blow hammer just to get it on the pins, yet it was still 1" away and I had to use an impact gun to actually raise it, I stripped the 2 large rear nuts doing this, thankfully I had extra and THANK GOD I did not strip the threads on the pin. Yet this subframe is now pressed in so damn hard I am scared this wont even come out when I need to!! anyone else have this issue?
12-30-2015, 08:24 AM
#57
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Like etkms, I know this thread is years old but we just did the bushings on the 370Z at 65,000 miles because the diff bush had already puked out all the juice and two of the 4 subframe bushes were dry as well. We followed the procedure as mentioned here, disconnecting the parking brake cable at the toggle lever, which made that part of the job simple. Harbor Freight sells a transmission jack that we used to lower the assembly and it worked like a champ. We had to work hard to get the OE bushings out of the subframe (DEFINITELY remove the sleeve from the center of the bush before you do any cutting) but the Whiteline replacement bushings pressed in with ChannelLock pliers, nothing more. What could have been a one day job turned into two because we spent far too much time breaking off tools in one of the original bushings, but once we cracked the code the others came out pretty easy!
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