DIY Jack Adapter
#1
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DIY Jack Adapter
Here is a quick, super simple adapter for the pinch seam at the jack points on the Z. This may not be in the right forum and I know this has been discussed elsewhere but I could not find those threads. Mods, feel free to merge or move as needed.
I've seen some folks use a hockey puck for this. I live in SC and hockey pucks are about as common as polar bears.
Anyway, all you you need is a short piece of treated 4x4 and a circular saw (or even better a table or radial arm saw).
I tried using it today and it worked perfectly.
Slightly off topic, but if you use the front jack point you can get both front and rear tires off the ground. Very handy.....but not sure if it is good for the car. Anyway, the adapter I made held up fine to doing it that way.
I've seen some folks use a hockey puck for this. I live in SC and hockey pucks are about as common as polar bears.
Anyway, all you you need is a short piece of treated 4x4 and a circular saw (or even better a table or radial arm saw).
I tried using it today and it worked perfectly.
Slightly off topic, but if you use the front jack point you can get both front and rear tires off the ground. Very handy.....but not sure if it is good for the car. Anyway, the adapter I made held up fine to doing it that way.
#5
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Thread Starter
Okay, you're right. I just kind of eyeballed everything so didn't use measurements to make it. And it is neither straight or perfect. But here they are:
Base dimension is 3.5" x 3.5" (which is the standard 4x4 dimension)
Height is 2"
The width of the contact areas is about 1-1/4" wide on either side of the groove. The amount of wood removed on either side of the top is about 1/4".
The width of the groove is just under 1/4" and is just right.
Groove depth is 7/8". This depth is more than necessary. Probably only needs to be 5/8". Going to 5/8" vs 7/8" would allow the overall height to be lower than 2".
As it is, I can get my low profile jack under it with no problem but very little additional clearance. Just to make it easier to get the jack under it I may knock 1/4" off the top.
As far as how to make it, if you have a table saw or radial arm saw (I did not) than you probably don't need any instructions. If you have a circular saw and know how to use it then it isn't too hard to figure out either. The only trick is cutting the groove out and to do that you just set it to the right blade depth and then carefully make a series of cuts the length of the groove. There will be some 'lines' of waste material left in the groove and to get rid of those just hold the blade guard up and move the blade side to side and it will eat the remaining waste material.
Note: a standard circular saw blade does not extend far enough to cut through a 4x4 in one pass. You have to make a cut on three sides to complete the cut. Use a speed square as your saw guide.
Now it looks hard to do. It isn't.
Base dimension is 3.5" x 3.5" (which is the standard 4x4 dimension)
Height is 2"
The width of the contact areas is about 1-1/4" wide on either side of the groove. The amount of wood removed on either side of the top is about 1/4".
The width of the groove is just under 1/4" and is just right.
Groove depth is 7/8". This depth is more than necessary. Probably only needs to be 5/8". Going to 5/8" vs 7/8" would allow the overall height to be lower than 2".
As it is, I can get my low profile jack under it with no problem but very little additional clearance. Just to make it easier to get the jack under it I may knock 1/4" off the top.
As far as how to make it, if you have a table saw or radial arm saw (I did not) than you probably don't need any instructions. If you have a circular saw and know how to use it then it isn't too hard to figure out either. The only trick is cutting the groove out and to do that you just set it to the right blade depth and then carefully make a series of cuts the length of the groove. There will be some 'lines' of waste material left in the groove and to get rid of those just hold the blade guard up and move the blade side to side and it will eat the remaining waste material.
Note: a standard circular saw blade does not extend far enough to cut through a 4x4 in one pass. You have to make a cut on three sides to complete the cut. Use a speed square as your saw guide.
Now it looks hard to do. It isn't.
Last edited by N80; 08-05-2012 at 11:41 AM.
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