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How-to: Change Brake Pads

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Old 02-11-2009, 03:56 PM
  #241  
OrleanZ33
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I just recently did a 4 wheel brake job. I decided to go with the HAWK HPS pads my self, presence of brake dust is almost non exsitant compared to the OEM ones, my stock 17's would almost be black in color due to this so thats a plus. As far as bit goes after the pads seated they work great. I also notice the pedal has to be applied further to get the same effect compared to the OEM ones but I think they stop alittle better. I had to cut each front rotors about 6-8 times due to the lip it had plus it was alittle warped but all is well now.
Old 03-12-2009, 09:16 AM
  #242  
Brrcats
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Thanks for the write up. Took me a little longer than normal due to having to replace hub bolts due to a thief trying to steal my curbed up stock wheels 8(

So I did get to use the sledgehammer though, which was nice.

Had to use the breaker bar a few times to get the caliper bolts out to expose and remove the rotor. But the actual pad replacement was easy cheesy. Although the rears are a little different becuase you cant remove the inner most bolt, there is a suspension component in the way. I just loosened it up and rotated the top part of the caliper around that point.

but yeah, thanks for the writeup, In my younger days I've paid a pretty penny for someone to do this for me when its one of the simplest things I"ve ever done on a car.
Old 03-12-2009, 12:40 PM
  #243  
VQdriver
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Originally Posted by Brrcats
Thanks for the write up. Took me a little longer than normal due to having to replace hub bolts due to a thief trying to steal my curbed up stock wheels 8(

So I did get to use the sledgehammer though, which was nice.

Had to use the breaker bar a few times to get the caliper bolts out to expose and remove the rotor. But the actual pad replacement was easy cheesy. Although the rears are a little different becuase you cant remove the inner most bolt, there is a suspension component in the way. I just loosened it up and rotated the top part of the caliper around that point.

but yeah, thanks for the writeup, In my younger days I've paid a pretty penny for someone to do this for me when its one of the simplest things I"ve ever done on a car.
to get around that suspension arm, use a 6" extension or so to reach "through" it and use your breaker bar from underneath the car. you'll need to do that to change the disc sooner or later
Old 03-13-2009, 05:02 AM
  #244  
Brrcats
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Originally Posted by VQdriver
to get around that suspension arm, use a 6" extension or so to reach "through" it and use your breaker bar from underneath the car. you'll need to do that to change the disc sooner or later
the problem wasnt the ratchet so much as it was the length of the bolt. I was able to use a small wrench to loosen it, but when I tried to pull it out the bolt could be backed up only to the point where it hit the suspension arm and it still had to be pulled out a bit more.

I'm sure if I was determined I might have found a way to get it out, but seeing as it wasnt necessary I just made due.

I've only got 40,000 on the dial, so hopefully its later rather than sooner.
Old 03-29-2009, 12:24 PM
  #245  
Diesel350
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I just changed all 4 brake pads and it was pretty easy and straight forward. I think I spend more time cleaning the calipers, clips, and backing plates more than anything. Amazing how dirty everything gets in there. I am glad I did this myself then taking it to the dealership because you know damn well they wouldn't take the time to clean your brakes and they stick you with a $200 bill.
Old 03-31-2009, 07:57 PM
  #246  
nassin_z053
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yeah after taking the pads out i cleaned the whole caliper assembly with brake cleaner ... installed the anti squeak spray and no problems so far

nice write-up
Old 04-25-2009, 03:46 PM
  #247  
CarbonZ08
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Excellent write up. Thanks for taking the time.
Old 07-02-2009, 08:13 AM
  #248  
mwest300zx
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HokieZ,
Thanks for taking the time to write up and photograph the step by step brake pad replace procedure. Although I've replaced pads on my Miata a few times your tutorial helped. It gave me the motivation to do my Z pads. I did the rears only (fronts were done last week during a track event). These were completely shot. Totally smooth, they fell apart when I got them out. I would say the whole job took 30 minutes max--maybe only 20. Replacing these pads was easier than on my Miata.
Thanks for taking the time and helping out us novices.
Old 08-20-2009, 09:23 PM
  #249  
Edg_R
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I just changed my pads using ur guide!!! Thanks!
Old 10-31-2009, 09:01 AM
  #250  
basicblack@nola
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Great details & pics sweet,thanks.
Old 11-01-2009, 06:11 AM
  #251  
Sunset350ZR
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Yes guides were great. One more thing the shops will never see me again to do!
Old 11-02-2009, 10:30 AM
  #252  
JTZ0327
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Just did mine over the weekend. I've never had any experience with doing my brakes, but after reading this thread it only took me at most 20mins to change my front pads. Definitely as simple as it sounds!
Old 11-03-2009, 02:06 PM
  #253  
laurentj23
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I got a aquestion. The damn dealership put the bolt on the tires so tight that I couldn't get the tires off. Are there any other way beside using the compressor?
Old 11-28-2009, 11:14 AM
  #254  
jseabolt
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Can't seem to find my previous post about the rotor removal.

I installed a new set of brake pads on the front of my wife's 350Z the other day. No big deal.

The on-line shop manual someone told me to download is for Brembo calipers. This car does not have Brembo calipers. So It was just a matter of using a wrench to remove two bolts to pull the calipers off.

I decided the rotors were not bad enough to need turning so I just installed new pads. But the rotors do in fact just fall off if the caliper brackets are removed.

For what it's worth, I got the pads from Advance Auto. I explained to the guy that the previous set of pads create an excessive amount of brake dust. Wheels are black after driving 100 miles. Also the brakes on this car are very touchy. Just a slight amount of pressure will throw you into the dashboard. Just like German cars.

Maybe because the pads were almost worn out was the reason they were so touchy. I don't know. All I know is if your used to driving a Subaru or Ford, it will catch you off guard if your not used to it.

I think the pads I installed are ceramic. They are their "Gold" pads or something. $39 a set, the next step up from their lowest priced pads.

So far I've been really pleased with these pads. These pads generate almost no brake dust yet provide good stopping power. Another upside is you have to apply a descent amount of pressure to stop the car but it stops just as good just not as touchy.

Just thought I'd do a follow up.
Old 11-30-2009, 01:20 AM
  #255  
quakerroatmeal
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Originally Posted by laurentj23
I got a aquestion. The damn dealership put the bolt on the tires so tight that I couldn't get the tires off. Are there any other way beside using the compressor?
Use a breaker bar to take those lugs off. A big one.

Originally Posted by jseabolt
Can't seem to find my previous post about the rotor removal.

I installed a new set of brake pads on the front of my wife's 350Z the other day. No big deal.

The on-line shop manual someone told me to download is for Brembo calipers. This car does not have Brembo calipers. So It was just a matter of using a wrench to remove two bolts to pull the calipers off.

I decided the rotors were not bad enough to need turning so I just installed new pads. But the rotors do in fact just fall off if the caliper brackets are removed.

For what it's worth, I got the pads from Advance Auto. I explained to the guy that the previous set of pads create an excessive amount of brake dust. Wheels are black after driving 100 miles. Also the brakes on this car are very touchy. Just a slight amount of pressure will throw you into the dashboard. Just like German cars.

Maybe because the pads were almost worn out was the reason they were so touchy. I don't know. All I know is if your used to driving a Subaru or Ford, it will catch you off guard if your not used to it.

I think the pads I installed are ceramic. They are their "Gold" pads or something. $39 a set, the next step up from their lowest priced pads.

So far I've been really pleased with these pads. These pads generate almost no brake dust yet provide good stopping power. Another upside is you have to apply a descent amount of pressure to stop the car but it stops just as good just not as touchy.

Just thought I'd do a follow up.
Some people actually prefer the hard initial bite. That's why I don't really like aftermarket pads that much. Most of them don't have a great initial bite. But I'll take one that doesn't have much of one over having my wheels black after one drive though.
Old 12-09-2009, 09:25 PM
  #256  
mikeross
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Very nice guide. Thanks for posting it.
Old 12-10-2009, 01:04 PM
  #257  
laurentj23
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Change both front and rear today. I havent got the chance to bed it in yet though.
One pointer for the rear, you don't have to loosen both bolts on the caliper. Just loosen the top part and it will slide right down.
Old 12-15-2009, 10:06 PM
  #258  
IN350Z
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great ill try it nice write up
Old 02-04-2010, 09:34 AM
  #259  
chromesilverz
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Get you a section of pipe from home depot 1.5-2 feet long. Slide it into the end of the oem lug wrench and presto instant leverage.

Originally Posted by laurentj23
I got a aquestion. The damn dealership put the bolt on the tires so tight that I couldn't get the tires off. Are there any other way beside using the compressor?
Old 02-04-2010, 09:37 AM
  #260  
chromesilverz
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Do you find that the front pads wear at twice the rate of the rears?

Last time I changed them...the rears were still fine....Is it safe to say that you can change the rears every other time.


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