nicolaycastro

iTrader: (3)

make sure you are turning them in the direction they are supposed to be turning. Remember you are not facing the bolts, so you should be turning the to the RIGHT. Or better yet, get a rachet and set it to loose, and just use some strength.

Another idea is to use an extension bar.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

I lay on my back ---just make sure ur turning them the correct direction with a breaker bar and ext to it if u need it. WD wont help u ----98 % of WD sales are wasted WD use

bigwilly03

Haha yup guys, I have been checking and re checking, righty tighty and lefty lucie. Opposite of what I did to take the lugs off. Also I set the pneumatic socket wrench to R (reverse). I guess the only concern is that a while back I painted my calipers with some caliper paint. Doesn't look to be any paint around the bolt, but I'm going to try a bit of sand paper around it just in case. Someone had mentioned liquid wrench incase for rust. Any idea where to get this stuff?

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Liquid Wrench wont help u-----98% of Liquid Wrench sales are wasted Liquid Wrench--Ha!!

Hey ---They HAVE to come. Counter Clockwise. If need be, extend ur breaker bar 3 feet ---4 feet.

Penatrents (WD LW) wont help---The Caliper paint will have no affect.

Penatrating fluids only help in a situation where u have rust and used in conjunction with heat (Butane torch)

If its tite ---Its simply tite and u have to put some *** behind it

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

With a long enough lever , u can move the earth---Dont worry , they wont break

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

BTW ---If it is a little hung up when u do get it loose---Thats when a little WD will help and I prefer Liquid Wrench ---Its sold almost all Auto parts places

bigwilly03

Update: Got some liquid wrench and a couple of squirts , some tapping as per instructions, some more squirts and after the 2nd attempt with the pneumatic socket wrench and finally got the damn bolt loose. Anyone that is attempting to change their brake pads, I definately recommend that you save yourself some grief and get some of Liquid wrench and spray a bunch on the bolts before you begin.

Secondly my dealer (Agincourt Nissan/Infiniti) is a bunch of damn dirty liars, they told me that my rear pads were down to 3mm and that was the recommended service level. However the "good news" was that I was covered under the brake warranty for parts etc, but they would need to charge me $70CDN to "lubricate" my brakes. I told them they are going to charge me $70 basically an hours worth of work just to apply some brake quiet, no thanks. I checked the service manual and the recommended service level was down to 2.6mm.
The kicker is when I did finally get the caliper out and looked at the pads they looked pretty thick. A quick measure with a ruler and they were at ~5mm. Arg!! So I ended up just cleaning the pads and re-applying some brake quiet. I guess my ProjectMu pads will wait till spring before they go on.

Thanks again guys.

Cheezwiz

Shouldn't you need to bleed the brakes?

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

No matter what ---Anytime ur close to a bleed screw, open it and tap the caliper a couple times. Even if ur just changing out tires

nicolaycastro

iTrader: (3)

Does that really work to doa qick bleed?

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Yes, when ur by ur self, just open ur bleeder and gravity will eventually empty the resivour wheather it be brake or clutch. I work alone so much that Iv gotten used to it. I tap and shake the hoses and tap the caliper/Slave cyl to dislodge bubbles that are clinging to the interior.

If it does not flow once ur MC is primed, then u may have a bad MC (obstruction due to swollen cups,valve not centering ) or a flex hose that has collapsed

The reason I say do it even for a Pad change or even when u have ur tires off for whatever, is just piece of mind. If there is ANY air in the system it will be right there and will purge within 30 seconds. And there WILL be air because it can be pulled in past the cups and just temperature changes will create bubbles. Very little but none the less some.

GonZ

I has to change my front pads for the first time yesterday, I had to haul a$$ since I i didn't have enough time. I did both side in 15 minutes.

A useful tip: somebody mentioned something about leave the bottom bolt in and just pivot the piston out to clear the pads, I tried that but the brake line was too short for the piston to clear. I tried leaving the top bolt and just pivot the piston the other way, it worked out way better.

RUSTYSTOLZZ

iTrader: (2)

I have an 05 Touring with the OEM brakes. I put new Hawk pads on today and they squeak like crazy. bedded them in and they still squeak. Not just a little - LOUD. So bad I'm thinking of taking them off. Dose anyone have any suggestions?? They work great but sound like S***.

I've never had a problem with any other car I've done. WTF???

Ztalker

i did my front brakes with pads i ordered from tirerack (satisfied/genetix/ceremic/pR815/made in canada) yesterday.....no squeak whatsoever and very inexpensive. These new pads have good initial bite after bedding in also. Those old nissan oem pads(second set) were very quiet and i easily could have kept them for another 3000 miles.

IluvIt

iTrader: (1)

^^^Sorry to post a reply to this...but seriously??

MoodDude

HokieZ,
Can you add to your excellent write up that you need to bleed the brakes properly and bed in the new pads in you orginal write up. It seems a lot of people are not doing either and are asking for advice on the exact same problem. I can help you write it if you want, just can't take the pictures as my Z no longer has the stock calipers.

GonZ

I might be missing something but I don't see why you have to bleed the line when all you're doing is changing the pad.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Your not missing anything,its just good mechanics. Your right there anyways. Small amounts of air can get into your system even under ideal conditions--- Temperature changes for one, a seal pulling air in for another.

They are minute amounts but none the less there. And its not a question of going through a time consuming process, just open your bleeder and tap ur caliper. Takes 4 minutes a wheel, Max.

Its just no hassle insurance and the knowledge that everything is perfect

BTW--- I seldomly dont get a bubble or two

glhboy

Did all 4 today. The rears are a little different, I found out you only need to loosen the top caliper bolt, lol. Oh well. Easy as 1, 2, 3. I just went with an all ceramic pad as I didn't want to spend a whole lot and this is a daily driver.

lbz

iTrader: (14)

I just used your guide and it was very helpful. I knew changing pads was fairly easy but had never done it before and brakes being as important as they are I was reluctant.

I put on Hawk pads today and thanks to your procedure, it went without a hitch. I aslo cleaned and re-oiled by air filter, cleaned my Z including the engine.