rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

I am in the process of custom fabing a duel rear caliper ebrake for drifting I just can't stand the pos drums.

I was wondering if anybody has done it? If so any advise?

I got a used set of spare calipers and the handle with the separate Hydo cylinder, I know were I can mount the other set of calipers just go to get the adaptor plate fabed up and get the lines and the residual pressure valve.

Any advise would be sweet thanks!

SamSpicer

iTrader: (1)

Good Luck I'd like to see some pics, bet it would look pretty sweet.

ksmoore

iTrader: (1)

The brembos are a 2 piston rear caliper??

RandomHer0

iTrader: (9)

Pretty sure our man JasonZ-Ya is doing this, there is a thread somewhere.

rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

LOL Iam trying to add a second caliper to each of the rear wheels, i am using the non brembo calipers.

i tried looking for a thread for this but came up with nata. I will take pics and post as i go!

I will be picking up some sheet cold rolled 3/16 steel Friday to see if i can do some cutting and welding for a adapter plate.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

hi,

yes i am,.........I have been tossing this up for years, but i cant take credit for it as my man MPD47 up in NY is the one that got me cooking on it again actually........

I was gonna do a non brembo rear set up as well, but I just increased my completion time as i dropped some money on brembos......so now Im saving money again...LOL...

I currently have a template made and im working to have it over to the machine shop within the next week or so........they want top dollar.

let me find MPD's pics..
Edit, here is MPD's thread on his vk build....a few pics down you can see his dual caliper set up:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...pped-350z.html
Thats exactly what im doing as well...

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Here is MPD's pic he posted:


This bracket set up is nothing new............others have done it, along with drift teams........there's just no kit you can buy, you must fabricate yourself as of now............i wont other than for myself, as its "dangerous" lol....

I always planned on making one myself, but I called many drifting shops and teams and those that did it wouldn't even comment on it, as its proprietary and its dangerous that they don't wanna have any part of any amateur copy'n their work and getting hurt, etc.......i don't blame them...

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

as for plumbing..........

You create a completely separate 2nd hydraulic system.....
purchase rear SS lines, connect to hard line purchased from autozone (notated as "asian" vehicles will have the M10x1.0 fittings on them already) and a single "tee" fitting with the same M10x1.0 ports then a single line going to a master cylinder with fluid reservoir ebrake handle.....

buy a hand held tube bender and go to town........

done and done..

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

So I wouldnt be under the car trying to bend hardline and end up with a crappy job, I got some thin gauge bailing wire and easily bent and routed bailing wire in the exact location i wanted the hard line........I then went to my worktable and duplicated the bends to my brake line.

-J

redman333

iTrader: (8)

Don't lambs have 2 calipers in the rear. You could look at those designs

rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

Yup thats the same place iam mounting my calipers, I talked to a few shops and they said the same thing... Big bucks with alot of machine work. My Job is a aircraft structural mech, so i have pritty good comprehension on what materials to use and have access to a weld and machine shop, but do i know how to use the machines correctly?... not so much.

The two things i am worried about is the hub centering, and i cant go as thick as i want on the adapter plate cuz of the hub centering I am worried that there will be some flex on it, (it will hold no issues but you dont want **** to flex under load) I would want to use 3/8 to 1/2 in, 7075-T6 and have the hub center machined in but then it gets down to cost.

the only other issues is making sure that my calipers are centered over the rotor with shouldn't be to hard.

The lines are the EZ part I am going to add in a Residual Pressure Valve set at 2 psi witch will help quicken the brake response and play in the handle.

I would like to see pics of adapter plates other people have made up i cant seem to find any!

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I made a template in a few hours time. It seems you may be over thinking it a bit.....I was lucky enough to come across a junk yard spare rear complete hub and spindle from a buddy of mine to do all my mock ups.......

Start off by:

1. when you get to removing the cotter pin from the axle, PRIOR to removing the big 36mm nut, notice that you only have about 1/4" to max 3/8" of room on the cotter pin hole....


2. Remove everything, axle and all and get down to the hub and spindle.......from the back side remove the e-brake cable and silly little mount that has two studs on it.
3. Now remove the actual hub from the back of the spindle - there are 4 bolts
4. From there I used plexi board - ie, home depot, walmart cutting board, anything will work, so long as it isn't brittle and see through or at least opaque will work/help in matching up holes. I used a shop florescent light behind it and traced the hole locations, hub hole diameter big hole and started cutting. with that, i was able to mount it all up.
5. position the caliper at about 9 o-clock position (passenger side rear) as the caliper body needs to be just right to not hit the spindle anywhere.

6.in my template you can see how i did a quick rough outline in black marker, but ended up cutting a bit off of that......i didn't care, just needed all the holes to match up. I have since cleaned it all up........machine shop will take care of the rest.

7. I'm making mine from 1/4" thick steel as doing this bracket now changes your rear wheel offset - plus you must pay attention to that cotter pin in the AXLE from step #1???? I dont care about the offset so much as i normally run 20mm spacers in the rear, so now ill just run 15mm spacers on my wheels and be just about the same.....

8. I'm an aerospace structural analysis engineer so by my calculations 6061 plate will work at 1/4" thick, but im just gonna have mine fabricated from 1/4" thick steel plate.

9. from there the e-brake mount plate is gonna be the bologna....LoL...

sandwiched between the hub and the spindle....source longer bolts to reinstall the spindle due to the mount plate thickness.........I believe they were M12x1.25x35mm long...but measure and check. grade 10.9 flanged hex head.

10. TAKE NOTE - that the oem caliper mounting points are .300 recessed from the spindle hub mount location........SOOOooo, some ingenuity needs to take place as simply mounting a caliper onto the bracket wont exactly work.....hence the 1/4" thick plate(.250) max...........being that its close to .300 offset of the oem mount calipers.........

11. you will now need spacers at the oem caliper mount locations and new bolts....ie brembos use different bolts than non brembo calipers..if brembo its M12x1.75x40 or 45mm length...but im sure its 1.75 thread pitch.


12. I plan on taking my template and spare spindle to the machine shop to ensure they get my "Traced" measurements just right.

My template:
90 percent complete:

Initial mock up and back drill of holes, rotor trace, etc:

You can see two of the 4 longer bolts i got in this pic on the right......with template in the mix...

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

also,
for the hydraulic lines............the Tee fitting needed is semi expensive or hard to find..

I just went to the junk yard and pulled the factory tee from a Nissan 240sx......REAR passenger side.
0562f264.jpg?t=1275502073

-J

rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

you pritty much came to the same conclusions that i have I do over think things alot its better to safe.

on the hub where it centers you will see about 1/4in up it starts to taper just a tiny bit, thats why i was going with the 3/16in steel so that tiny bit will help it center. it mostlikly will not mean anything but you never know.


the two points where you attach the calipers, the stock one offsets .3 in and your adapter plate will be .25 so as you said, you will need spacers for the OEM calipers.

How are you going to mount the extra caliper?

U going to have the machine shop make a offset of .5in or are you just going to shave the opposing side of the caliper mount bracket and bolt them in on the opposing side? (if that makes scene?)

or is there enough play in the floating calipers to correct for the .5in difference. (I dont think there would be)

Thanks for all the info man! you are like my idle!

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Yes, spacers and longer bolts at the oem point, oem brake caliper.

just straight to the mounting bracket.

I first thought of making a stepped steel bracket by stopping short of mount point and welding steel flanges off the mount bracket that would offset it .250" and the rotor can handle the remaining .05" of float.

however, for your calipers machinging the back of them is a great option. as there is a threadless area in the oem non brembo bracke caliper mounting points.......check it out next time your looking at the calipers.......


NO, definately not. need spacers at the oem mount location and machine caliper mounting side OR welded flanges off the mount to make .250 offset.



-j

rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

On welding the .25 step for the calipers, I was working on the exact same thing but I ran into issues.

My caliper mounting brackes are off a 06 so they are the same calipers but the mounting bracket is for a bigger rotor, so my mounting points are rally close to the knuckles.

It will work but room for a step down is not with in my confert zone and the .25 in plate on the step will be puching right up against the knuckles I can shave some of the knuckle but for some reason I dint like that idea!

My current thought is I take my .1875 steel and make the plate and then add a .120 spacer on the hub. Then machine .170-.190 off the mating surface
Of the caliper brackets. But the amount of metal Iam taking off the brackets is real close for my confert.

What are your thoughts of my plan?

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

Is fabbing the extra mounting bracket that hard? Can't just cut it off from another bracket and fab to your bracket? lol

rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

Lol I wish it was that simple, any body can just fab up some brackets but is it strong enough? Here are clearances to worry about and centering of the hub or u could mess up a drive shaft or worse. Are the calipers aligned correctly if not then your brakes won't work well or worse.

If you don't do t right when u are entering a corner at 70+ mph and you pull that handle if some brakes or comes loose if could be very dangerous.

I know how important knowing your car is safe I rolled my z doing a 50mph drift I could have been badly hurt or killed if I didn't have my roll cage, sfi racing harness and sfi bucket seat + he air bags were disabled.

Here's the vid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rgH8iUm5-g

Unless you have alot of custom fab experience or are a engineer I would recommend getting a good shop who has done it before do!

JDMStanced

iTrader: (16)

woah..i didn't know you can roll your Z like that.
I thought willow spring is a safe place to drift but i guess it's not all that safe..lol

rubabealf

iTrader: (7)

Lol that was pacific raceways in WA. Ya the course was pritty tight for the speeds!