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Hey. Was wondering if its ok to cut a 2 inch hole in the metal rear strut to access the tops of my rear coilovers to adjust the stiffness. saw a few threads but they only drilled it out a very small amount to allow for a tool to get down in there. I have the stance coilovers
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06 Magnetic Black. Volk SF Challanges 19", Stance Coilovers, HKS true dual, Hotchkis Sways, SPL V2 Arms, SPL camber arms, Injen CAI......V2...dealer says no more consumption!!!
I may be a dumb arse, but I cut a square above the strut to access it with great ease and do whatever I want in that very restricted space. I guess when I installed my new shocks, I didn't tighten the locking nuts at the top of the strut good enough and I heard a lot of metal clatter. The only way I was able to adjust it without removing the shock completely was to do what I did. lol I'm sure a 2" hole will be just fine.
I agree 2 inches is probably too large. How large should I make it so I can fit my fingers in thier and twist that knob atop the coilover. Without cutting out too much. Maybe 1.5 inches???
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06 Magnetic Black. Volk SF Challanges 19", Stance Coilovers, HKS true dual, Hotchkis Sways, SPL V2 Arms, SPL camber arms, Injen CAI......V2...dealer says no more consumption!!!
I agree 2 inches is probably too large. How large should I make it so I can fit my fingers in thier and twist that knob atop the coilover. Without cutting out too much. Maybe 1.5 inches???
no need to make it large enough to fit your fingers, just big enough to fit an extended socket that is the correct size of the top of the strut adjustment
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] '04 E46 ///M3
\\Work.l H l K l S l.HK Sound.Supersprint.Stoptech.Vörsteiner
no need to make it large enough to fit your fingers, just big enough to fit an extended socket that is the correct size of the top of the strut adjustment
I helped a friend with his stance coilovers, no need to get your fingers in there to adjust the dampening. all you need is a long allen key, i forget what size though.
haha I had to I was not going to remove my coilovers just to adjust them all the time. Especially how mine uses this turn key I had to cut it out to stick my hand in and turn.
They punch holes in race car sheet metal all the time. It drops a little bit of weight, and the added dimension adds strength. To be honest, if you can feel the effects of cutting 2 inch holes in that strut brace, you have the most sensitive seat of the pants feel in the world.
I helped a friend with his stance coilovers, no need to get your fingers in there to adjust the dampening. all you need is a long allen key, i forget what size though.
Ray :P
yeah, we used a hole saw. I think it was a 3mm allen key.
OP: make the hole as small as you can, there is no need for it to be larger than the size of the allen.
After drilling the hole, use a clear enamel nail polish (or if you want to get fancy, any color will do) to 'seal' the now-exposed metal of the rear brace. Just for saftey... no weather elements should really touch it, but raw metal has a way of corroding.
I personally did not drill through the plastic cover and think that is unnecessary. just pop it off when you need to... how often do you really make adjustments...
Last edited by Motormouth; 11-06-2009 at 10:24 PM.
They punch holes in race car sheet metal all the time. It drops a little bit of weight, and the added dimension adds strength. To be honest, if you can feel the effects of cutting 2 inch holes in that strut brace, you have the most sensitive seat of the pants feel in the world.
This is an incorrect explanation.
What you are describing (I am guessing, judging on your use of 'added dimension'), is called ''chamfering" and it differs from simply cutting holes in the metal in that a specific chamfer tool/machine is used after the hole is cut to bevel the edge, which is what gives the hole structural strength, often times greater than the raw sheet metal.
The only time basic holes are cut into sheet metal and left that way is when the piece is non-structurally important, non-load bearing. So yes, adding holes to an already un-boxed rear cross brace will be noticeable. Therefore, the smaller, the better.
notice every hole is chamfered (this piece is a structural gusset):
And the weight he would save from drilling two holes in the rear brace would be akin to not driving with socks on; useless.
haha I had to I was not going to remove my coilovers just to adjust them all the time. Especially how mine uses this turn key I had to cut it out to stick my hand in and turn.
~Robert
two things:
- wow. that is a huge hole. wow
- you probably could have removed the knob, most coil overs have a hex head on the top of the piston rod. not that it really matters now
What you are describing (I am guessing, judging on your use of 'added dimension'), is called ''chamfering" and it differs from simply cutting holes in the metal in that a specific chamfer tool/machine is used after the hole is cut to bevel the edge, which is what gives the hole structural strength, often times greater than the raw sheet metal.
The only time basic holes are cut into sheet metal and left that way is when the piece is non-structurally important, non-load bearing. So yes, adding holes to an already un-boxed rear cross brace will be noticeable. Therefore, the smaller, the better.
notice every hole is chamfered (this piece is a structural gusset):
[img]http://image.modified.com/f/17357590+w750+st0/0611sscp_opera_performance_honda_s2000_17_z.jpg[img]
And the weight he would save from drilling two holes in the rear brace would be akin to not driving with socks on; useless.
Very true, but my point is I don't see two 2" holes (which the holes don't even need to be that large, except for that guy with the knob) being detrimental to the car's chassis strength.
Cutting a hole for rear adjustments
