You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Cliffs:
Brakes became spongy
Checked for leaks, no leaks
Rotors and pads were replaced with genuine brand new (non-brembo)
Repaired brake master cylinder with repair kit and then ...
Tried to bleed brakes but no pressure
Where have I gone wrong? what can I do? Driving with hand brake and 6MT at the moment, so your help will be a life saver!
what does this master cylinder repair kit consist of? if you had the master cylinder off, did you bench bleed it?
the kit consists of the tandem pistons (secondary and primary), o-ring, x2 seals, silicon grease, pin which hold the reservoir to master cylinder, and that C-shaped clip which holds the pistons inside the cylinder.
My gf's car was spongy. Her problem was pads/rotors that needed to be rescrubbed. I removed the pads and used some light sandpaper to clean up the pad and the rotor and broke in the brakes again using stoptech's procedure.
You've got air in the lines, you need a pressure bleeder to get it out. Regular pump-the-pedal bleeding won't do it.
Not suddenly, but from wear I believe, tried bleeding several times. The problem now is the repair kit, wish it was spongy but there's no pressure whatsoever.
Quote:
Originally Posted by plumpzz
My gf's car was spongy. Her problem was pads/rotors that needed to be rescrubbed. I removed the pads and used some light sandpaper to clean up the pad and the rotor and broke in the brakes again using stoptech's procedure.
did it work? usually you need to resurface the disc to get rid of the grooves and make it smooth.
On the other hand, I just came from hell, I've took the master cylinder out again and bench bled it, didn't work, went to a workshop and we took it out again, this time I opened it, I noticed the O ring which is on the primary tandem was out of place, in fact it was further inside the cylinder hanging loose around the piston, which made the oil leak outside into the break booster (I flushed the engine and changed oil), anyway *face-palm* I was relieved, I thought my nightmare was over, fixed the ring in place, tried to bench bleed it, there was little or no pressure improvement as there was before, so we basically achieved NOTHING, there's very little pressure.
The guy at the workshop says I must get a new complete master cylinder and that a repair kit is useless and that the cylinders bore itself is the problem, fine, but What I don't understand is how come the old master cylinder which I took out at least had pressure and was working to some extent? Around 10 liters of brake oil wasted so far. Driving with no brakes for the last two days relying on the handbrake and manual transmission to slow down.
I told him I am ready to buy a new master cylinder but it was out of stock, until Saturday, anyways until then I am ready to try any other idea that might make this work, as I've come a long way already.
That sucks! I have a master cylinder coming from an 08 if you are interested.
I have a 04, but thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCat
When you are dealing with hydraulics, any nick, burr, or damaged rubber will cause the system to fail.
Why did you opt to rebuild the master cylinder in the first place?
Brakes were spongy and soft, and they don't lock when I fully depress the pedal, car drags to a stop. What else could it be? are these symptoms of soft brake lines? I'll know on Saturday when I get a new BMC
... Ok $hit's just got serious, no BMC in stock, next time it'll be in stock is in a month or so ... need to make what I have work ... I am gonna open it again tonight, from what it looks like, there's no pressure in the cylinder, I know for sure there's no leak towards the brake booster anymore (fixed), where can the pressure be going? can it be lost inside the cylinder itself? what should i look for?
My gf's car was spongy. Her problem was pads/rotors that needed to be rescrubbed. I removed the pads and used some light sandpaper to clean up the pad and the rotor and broke in the brakes again using stoptech's procedure.
No Comment
__________________
2010 Redline Time Attack Enthusiast RWD 3rd place Overall
ok new $hit has just surfaced .... i opened the cylinder to have another look at the repair kit, and it seems like the rubber rings around the tandems are smaller than the fcuking bore, 3 rings in total, 2 around the secondary tandem and 1 around the primary, technically when i put them inside the bore and shake the cylinder they wobble freely as in they don't snug fit in it, similarly to how when you put your dick inside a whore that's been F***ed too much too often and you don't feel anything ... in other words I GOT THE WRONG MOTHERFCUKING KIT!
RE: dick inside whore and don't feel anything.............TMI......you may have a big problem there. Sorry.
yes i do a have a problem here after i coughed up $64 for the wrong repair kit, the wasted oil, time, useless labour charges, and having to wake up too early and sleep too late, and after all this and the driving with no brakes, i just coughed up another $262 for a new bmc.