dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Pretty sure max height on the basis will be more like +.5"... Might wanna check again... If your not looking to go lower you could just keep your stock rear spring in place... The front will adjust to stock height as well.

If your not wanting to go lower some new shocks might have been the better choice.. But even at their lowest settings the basis isnt going to slam your car.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

That being said I still like them...

ThatZGuy

Thanks for the info I'll look back into that. I'm just not trying to lower my car much. I live in Idaho and winter is around the corner not looking to get high centered pulling out of my neighborhood.

If I just lowered my car with this coilover about .5 max all around do I need a kit to fix the alignment or will the stock kit be able to be adjusted?

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Up to about an inch drop you will be fine without extra parts

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

..



Am looking to lower it with eibach pro
I have no idea what kind of arms these are




Front drivers side

travlee

iTrader: (8)

so what are you asking?

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

..
if anyone recognizes these arms would be cool..jus to know

would like to know what or if all bushings should be replaced
ball joint seems fine (no noise drives fine..this is recent cause I inspected it about 1000 miles ago..)but the torn boot has to be fixed..not sure if that would affect the camber..
so if I have camber control with these arms why didn't the tech get closer?

are these gonna be ok with the bach proline springs or will that need for rear components


from what I have read whiteline for dd/some track will be fine?

from what I read 1.5 camber in front would be fine to run for dd?

MicVelo

Wild guess: Cusco UCA - just based on color and design/layout of the bolts.

https://conceptzperformance.com/cusc...33_p_10074.php

LCA looks like OEM.

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

ahh yea I see that now..

PO install..

oh btw car has 90k miles..so ball joints for sure..im leaning towards a full front kit (whiteline?)

travlee

iTrader: (8)

9 out of 10 techs wont adjust the front camber, because from the factory is is not adjustable. you will have better luck going to a tuner that also does alignments

btw, pics weren't there at first....

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I would guess they probably didn't bother to touch any of that.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Whiteline is great for street use, we do have a local supplier and many forum sponsors that can get it for you. Have you checked for rear alignment parts, they may become a factor when lowered?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Terrasmak my suspension hero

What would you recommend for the rear subframe bushings? Whiteline, energy suspension, or solid aluminum pieces? For a weekend warrior non track, drive like miss daisy is in the car z...

Im thinking of doing the subframe when I replace my blown differential bushings, I got whitelines for the diff.

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

terrasmak.. I was gonna ask about the back next seems my camber is in spec
but not close to each other..?

I was under the rear yesterday bushing don't look abused but then again??


so I figured the tech didn't do anything to camber in the front..
btw second time at the same shop for a off center steering wheel
I only went back cause I still had the warranty for a year.

definitely going with that local chap for whiteline bushings ..i got my aluminum underpan from them I believe next day

any recommendation for a alignment shop in vegas that will get this right?
my buddy eladio decided to close his shop..i know church does dyno by not sure on alignment?

hoping to get all this wraped up before porshe runs at spring mountain

travlee...now I understand the post..

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Whiteline, the are great. Huge amount of flex in that area and Whiteline takes care of it. I ran a set, then went to solid. Solid is overkill but I wanted he rollcenter correction.

2 reasons the rear can be different. First, tech is lazy. This is the most common, once in the green, they call it good. Second is something is bent and it can't be set perfect. My bet is the tech is lazy.

You said your going to lower on Eibach springs, once lowered you may not have enough adjustment without aftermarket parts.

New shop because H1 is closed. Just contact him, I know he still has his scales and can do alignments. If you don't have his info, I can text him. PCA event, I may go, but I still need to replace my wheel bearings before.

vegasanthony

iTrader: (1)

PCA is definitely a go for me . upgraded the brakes after a couple of pucker moments at my last event friggin one pot

no eibachs till dec mayby ..the stock shocks are at 90k not sure how much life is left in them..not really wanting to go coilovers car gets too much strret time. soon as I get the bushings and ball joints right ill holler at Eladio see whats up.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Stock shocks are only really good for around 60k miles. I had 80k on mine when I went coilover. I may hit that event, I know I'm also running the Candlelighter 5k cancer event that weekend.

Hit me up if you need a hand, hopefully I'll have my garage set up this weekend where it will be usable again.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Alright ordered some whiteline subframe bushings, got the whiteline differential bushings, and ordered the eibach rear camber kit...

I believe the kit contains an adjustable camber arm along with an eccentric bolt... I checked out a video on you tube about the install and how to use the template to cut the subframe for the eccentric bolt but it just sent a big question mark in my head...

In the video the guy used the eccentric bolt to hold the adjustable camber arm into the subframe... But wouldn't you want to use a lockout non eccentric bolt to hold your now adjustable camber arm...

Thus making that eccentric bolt for mr spring bucket... Thats the only thing that makes sense to me, I havent gotten it yet and im sure theirs instructions...

But am I correct here? Ive read the first pages of this thread many times and thats the only thing that makes sense...

If you have adjustable arms use lockouts and non eccentric bolts.. If you dont have adjustable arms use horrible horrible eccentric bolts... yes?

Im not so sure I want to Dremal my subframe but i ordered the parts so I guess thats the first step in the madness.

MicVelo

The key here is moderation.

Similar to guideline adage of "if you lower more than -1.0", you will need camber correction". Again, a GUIDELINE only. Some cars (or their owners) prefer to keep camber within a normal range and therefore opt for corrective arms/eccentrics even if the camber isn't out of range.

That would be me. I'm "only" on -19mm drop but I run camber arms out back to bring alignment (camber anyways) back to the middle of the range rather than so close to the negative line to save tires.

Same applies for "to eccentric or not to eccentric". The eccentric bolt gives more TOE adjustability when used WITH the adjustable camber arms. I opted to install the arms first, get it aligned and see if I still needed to add/subtract more toe. I did NOT. It was spot on without any grinding of the subframe to install the eccentrics. (They're in my toolchest if I ever want to install them.)

I think if my car saw more severe duty, I WOULD play with alternate toe AND camber settings out back. But as it stands, no need.

Now your car, OTOH, may have a need to install the eccentrics because if I recall, you have non-OEM shock placement, e.g., true coilovers, yes? That being the case, the altered suspension pick up points (sans spring buckets) and the height at which you're adjusted MIGHT NECESSITATE the additional toe adjustement that the eccentric helps with.

My suggestion to you:

1. Get alignment checked. (Buy the "unlimited alignment check/fix option" because to do it all right, you're going to need to do multiple checks and possibly adjustments between steps). If you're within range on both camber and toe (again, talking rear-only here), return the camber arms. Or proceed to next if anything is out of spec.

2. Install camber arms. Get alignment checked and adjusted to camber spec. If toe is fine, stop there. Else, proceed to next.

3. Install the eccentric bolts, adjust camber and toe again and you should be good to go at that point.

That's just MY method of getting it right with minimal additional hardware. Others may tell you to install all but I personally hate to put additional stuff on my car because that's yet one more thing that can go out of adjustment.

Good luck!

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I have oem style so I have springs in my buckets, but im thinking of removing my adjustability and in the process lower the back another 1/2 inch, thus making the rear basically a lowering spring.

As much as I would like true coils in the rear the fact that all the pressures go into those little studs that hold the rear shocks kinda makes me nervous about them.

My rear is about an inch lower than stock now but after my recent diet and fender rolling my fenders are back up a bit.

I have subframe bushings and differential bushings waiting for my motivation to go up... After those go in I'll be trying to figure out the alignment...

The was all good and in spec with the oem wheels, and once I added the new suspension and then the new tires and wheels it handled noticeably way better so I was a little hesitant to change anything.. But I can't leave well enough alone...

I also picked up a set of oem sway bars to replace my rusty ones lol I was going to order adjustable ones but I didn't... O well