Motive Power Bleeder opinions?
#24
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Followed the instructions to the tee. Just didn't work. The pressure would build up but for some reason didn't have enough force to do anything. Took it off, and re-did it multiple times with same result. All I am saying is it's a pos and the two person method works just fine. No need to spend the extra for that thing.
#25
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well, there are many on here that used it, along with myself, acidjake75 and others with great success, sorry it didn't work for ya.....its a great tool i would highly recommend, i guess not being there, there is no way to know exactly what happened? did the gauge show pressure?
I bet it pressurized to your brake petal master cyliner was closed, and when you were opening the bleeder valve at the calipers nothing was happening because you needed to at least push the brake pedal in once so pressure can pass the brake pedal master.....
-J
I bet it pressurized to your brake petal master cyliner was closed, and when you were opening the bleeder valve at the calipers nothing was happening because you needed to at least push the brake pedal in once so pressure can pass the brake pedal master.....
-J
#28
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I only go up to 15 psi and it seems to get the fluid moving and bleeding done quick.
I set a dos XX bottle at each wheel and once all set up and pumped to 15, im literally done in 5 minutes max.
The Z has cross manipulation braking on the ABS block, so i do
pump the motive to 15psi and then pump the break pedal once or twice
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.
when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.
done...
-J
I set a dos XX bottle at each wheel and once all set up and pumped to 15, im literally done in 5 minutes max.
The Z has cross manipulation braking on the ABS block, so i do
pump the motive to 15psi and then pump the break pedal once or twice
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.
when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.
done...
-J
#30
Damn, I might need to do this. My brake fluid is brown now. Never been changed before. My noob question is this, after you use the power bleeder, all you have to do is put fluid into the MC?
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JaE35z (12-16-2016)
#34
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I only go up to 15 psi and it seems to get the fluid moving and bleeding done quick.
I set a dos XX bottle at each wheel and once all set up and pumped to 15, im literally done in 5 minutes max.
The Z has cross manipulation braking on the ABS block, so i do
pump the motive to 15psi and then pump the break pedal once or twice
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.
when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.
done...
-J
I set a dos XX bottle at each wheel and once all set up and pumped to 15, im literally done in 5 minutes max.
The Z has cross manipulation braking on the ABS block, so i do
pump the motive to 15psi and then pump the break pedal once or twice
1. passenger side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
2. drivers side front
pump the break pedal at least once.
3. drivers side rear
pump the break pedal at least once.
4. passenger side front.
when im done, the pressure will drop down to about 12psi when i walk back over to the motive to remove it.
done...
-J
pass rear
drive rear
pass front
drive front
Have you done a bleed in this order as well? I was always told to start from the farthest wheel from the BMC then work to the closet wheel.
#38
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I don't think the idea of bleeding the farthest from the MC first really has any validity anymore. I think that is a carry-over from the days where cars had only two tubes that ran out of the MC or proportioning valve then split again to the two sides of the car.
In a modern car, the tube from the MC runs to the ABS pump and it has separate tubes to each wheel. When you bleed the first brake, new fluid runs into the ABS pump then out the tube to that brake. When you do the second one, the pump is already primed with clean fluid, it's just the tube from the pump to that second brake that needs to be flushed. Repeat for brakes 3 & 4.
I have to admit though, out of habit, I always bleed the rears first then the fronts.
In a modern car, the tube from the MC runs to the ABS pump and it has separate tubes to each wheel. When you bleed the first brake, new fluid runs into the ABS pump then out the tube to that brake. When you do the second one, the pump is already primed with clean fluid, it's just the tube from the pump to that second brake that needs to be flushed. Repeat for brakes 3 & 4.
I have to admit though, out of habit, I always bleed the rears first then the fronts.
#40
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I'm considering doing the clutch fluid replacement on my Z because my car is experiencing the "Clutch Soft" issue when the temperature gets very hot. I'm planning on changing the clutch line to "Metallic Braided" and use the Motul RBF600 fluid. I have a question about, how much fluid I need for the job and also if I need to pressurize the "Motive Power Bleeder" without nothing on it to force the all fluid to be flushed out of the system before changing the clutch line?