i broke the rear shock bolts! what to do??
#1
i broke the rear shock bolts! what to do??
i am installing coilovers right and i over tightened the rear shock bolts for the upper mount and it snapped. this is the bolt that is connected to the car. i know that it is welded to the car. what to do? could it be replace?
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
1. Put your tools away and have the car towed to a shop that can do the job right.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
#3
350Z-holic
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
I have often wondered that...........like, what if that happened,.........I personally think those M8 bolts are way too small......
I know the top is trapped in the rear strut bar so i can imagine that it may be some dissasembly and re weld.
but, if you have coilovers, then you can get a plate welded up there with studs attached.....may have to have something fabbed up.......a two bolt plate like the way the coilovers have a two hole plate on the top of them...get it?
-J
I know the top is trapped in the rear strut bar so i can imagine that it may be some dissasembly and re weld.
but, if you have coilovers, then you can get a plate welded up there with studs attached.....may have to have something fabbed up.......a two bolt plate like the way the coilovers have a two hole plate on the top of them...get it?
-J
#4
350Z-holic
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
1. Put your tools away and have the car towed to a shop that can do the job right.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
But, you're not going to do that, so:
1. Buy a perforated base weld stud in a size as close to the original as possible (sorry no metric) http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-studs/=8i3fv6.
2. Get a competent welder to weld the stud in place on your car.
3. Be more careful.
oh, thats a great option! do that! Ive never seen those before..nice..
-J
#6
350Z-holic
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
^ try a local hardware store, but more of a specialty fastener store....
"All size bolt co", dallas, tx - type place...........visit, see what they might have..
-J
"All size bolt co", dallas, tx - type place...........visit, see what they might have..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 08-21-2010 at 10:44 AM.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same problem too, I had to cut off the stud with a dremel and make a small hole in the strut bar to get to the top of the bolt and grind the top down and drilled through under the wheel well through where the bolt goes through. I got some high grade universal bolt and nut from the auto part store. Bad thing about is that you have to have to hold the top of the bolt with a wrench or a really small ratchet to tighten the nut on the bottom. It took some time, but it worked for me.
Last edited by chrs870621345; 08-21-2010 at 09:30 PM.
#10
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
I had the same problem too, I had to cut off the stud with a dremel and make a small hole in the strut bar to get to the top of the bolt and grind the top down and drilled through under the wheel well through where the bolt goes through. I got some high grade universal bolt and nut from the auto part store. Bad thing about is that you have to have to hold the top of the bolt with a wrench or a really small ratchet to tighten the nut on the bottom. It took some time, but it worked for me.
#11
Registered User
Grind away the broken off stud, drill through the metal, and install a "slotted-body metric rivet nut". No welding, no disassembly. The threaded part will be on the top of the sheet metal.
Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.
Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.
Last edited by winchman; 08-22-2010 at 06:51 AM.
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (27)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Grind away the broken off stud, drill through the metal, and install a "slotted-body metric rivet nut". No welding, no disassembly. The threaded part will be on the top of the sheet metal.
Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.
Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.
interesting, i may have to give that a try. Would you happen to know what size it needs?
#15
Registered User
I've dealt with McMaster-Carr dozens of times for all sorts of things, and I've always gotten good stuff and good service from them. I hope it works as well for you.
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: New England
Posts: 588
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Grind away the broken off stud, drill through the metal, and install a "slotted-body metric rivet nut". No welding, no disassembly. The threaded part will be on the top of the sheet metal.
Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.
Also available from McMaster-Carr on page 3270. www.mcmaster.com
I'm pretty sure the piece of sheet metal the stud is attached to is lower in the body, and you won't see the other side of it in that picture. It's probably an empty enclosed space in the outer end of the tower bracing structure. I'd say it's about where the smaller detail below is located in the upper right of your picture.
#17
Registered User
That's true, but I've had good luck with them. On some, I had to put flats on the outside flange so I could hold it with a bicycle wrench while tightening the bolt to get it locked in place.
Finding a competent welder to make an overhead structural weld on galvanized and painted/undercoated sheet metal is going to be difficult. And after the weld is done, you've got to protect the area so it won't corrode.
Finding a competent welder to make an overhead structural weld on galvanized and painted/undercoated sheet metal is going to be difficult. And after the weld is done, you've got to protect the area so it won't corrode.