ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

Here's the very simple explanation:

-Pull car onto car alignment rack
- fill driver seat with approximate weight of driver (I use water softner salt bags)
- adjust endlinks so the swaybars are parallel to the ground, no tension / compression in endlinks, and endlink joints are all centered to ensure binding at the endlink ball joint does not occur during suspension movement.

That's about it.

MR RIZK

iTrader: (7)

I have been running the SPL front lower bushings since they came out as my oem bushings "pounded" out. The bushings never really made much noise (subjective) but noticed that after my car was off the road for 12+ months they now creak excessively. It is interesting that the bushings that mount to the suspension fork are quite loose (no play though) and the bushings that mount to the cross member are very stiff and creak. The car is not lowered much at about 20mm on ohlins suspensions.

Anyone got any recommendations on lube'ing these in anyway? I pretty sure SPL recommended against lube'ing but the bushings are so stiff now after not being used for quite some time.

PS: I'm fully aware of the noises that bushings and suspension top hats that utilise spherical bearings make but just trying to get rid of the excessive creak.

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

Sounds simple enough. Thanks man!

timmywhatsup

iTrader: (7)

For those wondering about buying the SPL bushings with pre-machined cones. Not sure how the other poster got his from SPL directly, but when I recently just bought mine from them, I asked about the machined cone option. They advised they do not offer them, and advised against it for structural integrity reasons. I know they are always trying to improve on their products, so maybe they did offer them machined at some point.

Irontimmy

iTrader: (3)

So my whiteline bushings make this clunking noise too.
Well after installation the noises began. I was thinking of assuring the torque specs on everything? Ball joint steering knuckle replaced also...noise went away for the first ride home from my brother's house. Going to check this weekend if the LCA transverse link bushing needs replacement.
Liekxthe one replaced here
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...translink.html

Irontimmy

iTrader: (3)

Going back to some more reading...excuse me

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

I just wanted to bump with an update.

I setup a friend's Z with a set of SPL compression rod bushings a week ago. I left the stock endlinks on. After a week of driving there was noise. Over the weekend I changed out the endlinks with Whitelines, and properly setup the endlinks. So far no noise, and as I've stated before I've been driving my car with SPL endlinks, Hotchkis sways, SPL compression rods for about the last 2 years on and off as a daily, even drove the car from SC to IL and not a sound.

If anyone references this thread to find a solution, I believe from my experience and from a few others who've chimed in......

Try getting new endlinks. I recommend SPL then Whitline. From what I've noticed, Whiteline doesn't have the same range of movement as the SPL links.

bjr

For me the machine gun rattle has always been the compression arm ball joint at the knuckle. This has been several times over the last 3 years and is always "fixed" by getting another free warranty replacement from Oreilly. This last time I went with OEM arms and SPL bearings. Came back after only about 20,000 miles. But now I think it was due to shocks being worn out. Without a warranty I am just going to let it go and see what happens. It will be sort of a test. If it gets no worse, it could have been related to worn shocks. I suspect for many others it HAS been from lowering, etc. but not sure what it is in my case all stock.
What I wanted to add that I don't remember seeing in this thread is that if you cannot figure out if it is your endlinks, simply spend 30 minutes taking the whole sway bar off the car and drive it around to see what noises change or go away. Even though I'm 99% sure I have the same problem again, I should do the same because maybe one of my endlinks is finally worn out? Very easy way to separate things for a better diagnosis. Even if you have good endlinks and they are adjustable this could help prove to you that you don't have them adjusted just right.

Irontimmy

iTrader: (3)

Retorqued the nut under the compression arm bushing. Noise gone and i lived happily ever after

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Here is another possible fix for people who this was unsuccessful.

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...e-for-4-a.html

Ive been having the same issue after installing SPL front a-arms, compression rod bushings, and front lower control arms bushings all from SPL. Also, I installed SPL rear camber arms, eccentric lockout for camber arms, and SPC toe bolt washer extender.

When I took down the front cross bar (or brace) one of the bolts were stripped so I just ordered some bolts to replace the bad one maybe the bar is rattling against the steel it sits against. Or possibly the SPL compression rod bushings are too big and it is leaving a gap at the cross bar causing the rattle.

I am testing new bolt first, then I am going to try the link above if this doesn't work.

EDIT: while rechecking my endlinks and tightening them on the drivers side I grabbed the compression arm and it moved and clunked. I went over to the passenger side did the same and it didn't clunk. I checked the black O-rings and the passenger side had the O-ring on the upper side but it was split, the drivers side had the upper and it was still OK. When I installed these arms with the SPL bushings I noticed since I went from side to side to attach the front cross bar (brace) the O-rings were pinched in the cone and they must have stayed that way while driving and cut the O-rings and made the 2 lower ones fall out and the upper one on the one side to split or get cut on the upper cone area. So Im getting new O-rings and Im going to get creative and jack up the front cross bar with jacks and raise the wheels on both sides so the O-rings don't get pinched between the cone and the heim joint part, basically Im going to install it as if the car is on the ground or maybe use ramps on the front. Hopefully that will help avoid getting the O-rings pinched during installation.

Im guessing the reason it sounds like the passenger side is clunking is just because the noise is emanating through the front cross bar (brace) and that's just how the sound echoes from the bar.

I am calling SPL tomorrow to ask them if I can get those O-rings from Lowes or Home Depot or from a plumbing supply house if not Im going to have them send me some new ones out and after testing my theory I'll update my findings to you all.

because I've been working on this every day now for the passed 2 weeks with no results and I'm praying this resolves it

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Also depending if our cars are lowered we may want to try different sized O-rings to fit into
the compression rod bushings. The O.D. of what comes with them is 1-1/2 with a cross section
of .188 so maybe an O-ring with a cross section of .125 might work better for lower cars.
I have a Grainger nearby where I can get these specific rings but Im guessing any plumbing supply
store will have what you need.

The reason we are hearing the noise from the passenger side Im assuming has no bearing on what side
is actually bad. What I think is happening is since these bushings are hitting the arm and then the
front brace, the noise is echoing from the front brace and it just makes it sound like its coming from the
right side of the car.

My next test is Im going to use 3/4 in. PVC couplers since the material is thicker than the pipe. The O.D. is about 1-1/4 and I.D is 1 inch. Im going to cut them into 1/4 in sections and use those rather than the chincy O-rings. Hopefully they will last longer than a day. If they go bad in a year that better than the O-ring option. Im cutting the PVC now and I'll install them tomorrow. I'll update as soon as possible on how they work out

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Hello my fellow my350z.com'ers. I have found the ISSUE AND SOLUTION to the
clunking rattling sound. It is the SPL compression rod bushing cones hitting
the upper most part of the pressed in part of the bushing.

What I did to fix this was use schedule 40 PVC coupler for 1 inch pipe.
It is nearly a perfect fit to sit just above the heim joint and stop the cone
from moving and hitting to cause the banging sounds we are all
complaining about.

I wanna say I cut them about 1/4 in thick. The best way to do it is cut a few
pieces and then grind the cut area nice n smooth. After that I used sand
paper to smooth out all rough edges from grinding and cuts. My next thing
Im gonna do because I didn't have time before is to place some bearing
grease on the PVC so it will glide smoother in the tight area it sits in.

Also it is best if you can have the car on a lift or ramps so the wheels have
all weight on them so removal and installation of the front cross bar assy.
brace bar is easier. Also manipulate the arm back and forth if you need to
so the PVC O-rings sit within the pressed in part of the bushings. And that's
it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now I have to see how long these PVC rings last in what appears to be a
brutal place for them to be sitting, considering the rubber or whatever
type of O-rings SPL supplied started snapping and falling out from day one
for me.

I may use schedule 80 or 120 PVC unless someone on here can recommend
a better material to use for this.

I HOPE THIS WORKS OUT FOR OTHERS POST YOUR SUCCESSES IF IT DOES

*************SPL COMPRESSION ROD BUSHING NOISE***********

Row2K

iTrader: (10)

I applaud your effort, but ultimately the real fix for these is a grease filled rubber boot. The vertical position they sit in means that grime, rocks, and dirt will continue getting into them and slowly destroy the bushing allowing more and more play and with it more movement and knocking and noise.

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I see that...when the time comes I may just go back to OEM bushings for that location. I'm sure the ball joint part will need replacing soon.

Have you or anyone you know created a boot for that bushing?

If so can you give me some input on how it was done.

Row2K

iTrader: (10)

Sorry, but no. Also not aware of anyone who has. This fundamental flaw however is the reason I will continue steering people away from SPL. They have done next to nothing to address the issue and their parts are notorious for noise and knocking. Just because they're expensive and look pretty doesn't mean they are a well engineered design.

I myself switch to Whiteline...very happy with them.

bjr

I see what you guys are saying now. One of mine started rattling after only 20,000 or so miles I think - have to double check service records. When I take everything out and inspect the center piece with the ball, after I cleaned it I rotated it all the way around and the inside chrome ball has corrosion on it. It physically moves up and down in the seat. I've been chasing a rattle noise for a long time and it has been different parts. This time it is the SPL bearing. I thought these were long time, heavy duty, no holding back the money part but I am disappointed in them. In all fairness, it may be that another loose part caused undue wear on it since the other side is very tight still but I will never know. Other people have complained though so I'm not sold on the idea. Aren't these nearly race car design parts though? Or do race cars use heim joints usually? I'm at least going to call and see if they can be rebuilt because I would expect my factory bushings to split someday again. At least with all new bushings, a new knuckle and a new compression arm the car feels and sounds right for now.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I would say it's probably because they don't care about noise, these are performance parts built for track use. They are using the same joints that NasCar to Trophy trucks use , Whiteline is more of a street part.

Row2K

iTrader: (10)

I don't think that's entirely the reason. The point of argument for me really is that SPL has never done anything to warn users that these are race car parts only and by race car parts only I mean something that can be expected to wear to the point of making excessive noise within 10 or 20k miles during street use.

I would go so far as to argue that SPL has done quite the opposite. They have marketed these components as dual purpose race/street parts knowing full well about the noise. No way in hell do they not know about it, the rubber o-ring inserts they provide to mitigate the noise are a direct indication of their awareness. To push this argument further if they don't care about the noise as you stated, then why even bother with the rubber o-ring inserts?

In short they know and they care, but not enough to make a change or possibly don't have the profit margin to provide the true solution: a complete re-work of the design with rubber boots to keep the joints clean of debris and/or road grime.

MR RIZK

iTrader: (7)

Row2k as a consumer I understand where you are coming from however these items are marketed at the track/high performance street setups and as such they are not going to have the same level of compliance as oem or whitelines. It is no different than buying a set of coilovers with spherical bearing top hats which over time will start making noise. I haven't seen suspension companies state "these maybe noisy".

On my Z I ran the spl setup for most of the joints. Did it make noise? yes it did, and was expected. The o-rings are plastic and not rubber (well mine were plastic but i never used them). The purpose from what I see is to limit the articulation of the arm and reduce the clunk which in a way is trying to address the issue for "street" users that may not track their car.

I would be surprised that the spherical bearings have worn out. They may articulate freely but probably not be loose ie: you cannot wobble the ball in the socket. If you can wobble the ball in the socket than "maybe" this could be a warranty claim but like I said I would be surprised if this is your issue.

Good luck in your quest but I feel you are fighting a uphill battle.

bjr

wow. Many people are getting less than 30k miles out of them too? I was comparing them to bearings in general and a lot of industrial spherical bearings have an o-ring captured in the bearing housing on the leading edge of the ball on both sides. Probably a machined inner lip for it to set into. Not for noise, for protection! I guess a boot would be the ultimate protection though. The o-ring could eventually fail. Point is they didn't make much effort to make them last and I wish I had noticed that up front.
Mine never made any noise because I was a later customer and have the O-rings they now supply. My problem is that maybe my steering knuckle ball joint stressed the SPL and now the compression arm can rattle up and down. Unless their lack of seal allowed dirt to get in and wear the bearing surface inside until there was slop. I'll never know what happened first in my case.
The other one has nearly 30k on it and is fine. Quiet. No slop. I'd be interested in having the bad one repaired if the cost is low and work on a boot idea myself. I'd want them on my shelf ready to put back in when my OEM bushings crack in about 60k(?).
I never expected them to be quiet and I also expected them to last for years. I never expected either one of these things from their description though. I just thought from reading the Suspension101 thread that they were the ultimate choice for that location (compression arm).