Kinetix V2 A Arms CREAAAK
#41
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Completely disassembled and lubed the urethane bushings by hand when installed about a month ago, plus added grease via the Zerk fitting yesterday. I do not think that is the problem. Like Diesel350 posted, I think it is in the ball joint. I'm going to try a spray lubricant on them to see if that works as others have had success with.
#42
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I would stick with white lithium based lube....on the spindle mount ball joint end (actually a rod end with pressed stud, but who's being technical here).
yes, it will wash off easier with water, but buy a spray can with a red straw add on feature and spray monthly, etc.. duh....
guys, its blows my mind that everyone whines about squeaks and noises.....its aftermarket and it REQUIRES maintenance = lube....get over it.
hands down kinetics made a great front upper control arm at an affordable price.....they failed on there version ones, and came back with version 2's that are shown here with:
Stainless steel construction, later added a dust boot, etc...at least they are still working a little R&D and making changes, adding boots, etc...
-J
yes, it will wash off easier with water, but buy a spray can with a red straw add on feature and spray monthly, etc.. duh....
guys, its blows my mind that everyone whines about squeaks and noises.....its aftermarket and it REQUIRES maintenance = lube....get over it.
hands down kinetics made a great front upper control arm at an affordable price.....they failed on there version ones, and came back with version 2's that are shown here with:
Stainless steel construction, later added a dust boot, etc...at least they are still working a little R&D and making changes, adding boots, etc...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-13-2012 at 04:54 AM.
#43
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In case anybody is wondering, on a car at stock ride height with the Kinetix front control arms as short as I could get them I was only able to manage -1.5° camber on the driver side (was targeting -1.7). On the passenger side which was more negative to start with and I was able to set it at -1.6° with the option to go one more turn before it was out of adjustment. I was getting 0.18° camber change per rotation (measured camber change on driver's side before and after making 4 rotations to get this figure).
i commend you for being stock height...finally, someone that wants the full suspension geometry to work in his favor.......anywho...
i dont see this as a fault, i see this more as kinetics and all aftermarket upper control arm manufactures trying to fix camber issues for the MASSES of people lowering their cars....
that being the case, i would do 1 of two things or both:
1. have a local machine shop fabricate a thinner Steel jam nut so to gain an even shorter arm because the supplied silver zinc jam nut is really really thick.
2. have a local machine shop cut about .200 inch off the tube section of the kinetics arms and chase the threads to ensure the rod end threads back in correctly.
- J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-13-2012 at 05:10 AM.
#45
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Ditto on the whining about squeeks and bumps. It's a sports car thats already really low, then you lower it further and have suspension geometry issues.
You have to pay to play the game, personally I want to hear the road so I have a further understanding of the road surfaces.
You have to pay to play the game, personally I want to hear the road so I have a further understanding of the road surfaces.
#46
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Completely disassembled and lubed the urethane bushings by hand when installed about a month ago, plus added grease via the Zerk fitting yesterday. I do not think that is the problem. Like Diesel350 posted, I think it is in the ball joint. I'm going to try a spray lubricant on them to see if that works as others have had success with.
#47
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creaking/rattle in upper control arms
If you have the kinetix upper a-arms and they're giving you the dreaded creaking noise i suggest removing them and packing them with this...
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lucas%20Oil/639/10005/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroikwd={keyword}&gclid=CO2syZSv1LMCFcsWMgod l0cAYg
be sure to use a very small film of this grease on the ball joint as best you can. with zero clearance joints its very difficult to work grease in the joint
Happy lubing
ASE master Tech - 6 Years
Certified advanced electronics
Certified alternative fuels
certified Auto/diesel High performance and engineering inc. Framework
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lucas%20Oil/639/10005/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroikwd={keyword}&gclid=CO2syZSv1LMCFcsWMgod l0cAYg
be sure to use a very small film of this grease on the ball joint as best you can. with zero clearance joints its very difficult to work grease in the joint
Happy lubing
ASE master Tech - 6 Years
Certified advanced electronics
Certified alternative fuels
certified Auto/diesel High performance and engineering inc. Framework
#48
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I wanted to update this thread to limit uncertainty on future searches with these Kinetix v2 arms.
First off, I never made a big deal out of my z making road noises. it's the nature of a modified sportscar. But...but...Everyime i pulled into a parking spot, or out of driveway it was like "ahoy matey!!!" @&$&$#% creaked like a pirate ship!
A.) Took the advice of a few gentlemen in this thread and picked up a can of white lithium grease.
B.) Jack up the car.
C.) Attach the straw to the white lithium can.
E.) Slip straw underneath the rubber boot that covers the ball-joint/rod-end/ spindle-thing, and spray it once. (u dont even have to remove your wheels.)
Results? thank u gentlemen.
Stealth mode. Ninja wins. That's it. Nevermind over greasing the bushings attached to the frame. Nevermind jack sparrow.
First off, I never made a big deal out of my z making road noises. it's the nature of a modified sportscar. But...but...Everyime i pulled into a parking spot, or out of driveway it was like "ahoy matey!!!" @&$&$#% creaked like a pirate ship!
A.) Took the advice of a few gentlemen in this thread and picked up a can of white lithium grease.
B.) Jack up the car.
C.) Attach the straw to the white lithium can.
E.) Slip straw underneath the rubber boot that covers the ball-joint/rod-end/ spindle-thing, and spray it once. (u dont even have to remove your wheels.)
Results? thank u gentlemen.
Stealth mode. Ninja wins. That's it. Nevermind over greasing the bushings attached to the frame. Nevermind jack sparrow.
#50
New Member
iTrader: (1)
I put more grease on the Kinetix bushings than a Bangbros video clip...Crunking creaking and everything else that starts with C can be heard when going slow over bumps and turning the steering wheel. Even when I start driving from a stop it crunches.
I am going to squirt lithium grease in the ball joint end and see how it sounds. Will report back!
I am going to squirt lithium grease in the ball joint end and see how it sounds. Will report back!
#51
New Member
iTrader: (5)
I put more grease on the Kinetix bushings than a Bangbros video clip...Crunking creaking and everything else that starts with C can be heard when going slow over bumps and turning the steering wheel. Even when I start driving from a stop it crunches.
I am going to squirt lithium grease in the ball joint end and see how it sounds. Will report back!
I am going to squirt lithium grease in the ball joint end and see how it sounds. Will report back!
Note: I also modified my arms just like JasonZ-Ya suggested in post #43 using the second method - cutting the tubes back as far as possible not to get into the main U-shaped tube. I am not at stock ride height (where I want it to be) and able to run -2.2/3 degrees of camber in the front which works perfect for my street tire track day set-up.
Last edited by 2000atlanticgt; 09-20-2014 at 04:34 AM.
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