Sick an Twsd

iTrader: (14)

I've checked all moving parts for any signs of, taken my sways off and regreased the bushings (that really reduced the noise for about 4 days) and now i'm debating on taking my Sways off and selling them

Watkins

iTrader: (1)

Do you still have your OEM swaybars and endlinks? When I was trying to isolate the noise on my car I swapped OEM in for my aftermarket stuff to try and pin down what the culprit was; that really helped in determining where to look for a noise fix.

Sick an Twsd

iTrader: (14)

Yeah i've actually isolated it down to the passenger side primarily. I'm getting a majority of noise when when i'm putting stress on one side of the car (i.e taking speed bumps at an angle)

Watkins

iTrader: (1)

Have you replaced the LCA bushings or the balljoints yet by chance?

Sick an Twsd

iTrader: (14)

No, when i install my springs/camber i'll look into fixing that

jjaujou

iTrader: (1)

Way to murder the hell out of that problem, dude! Quite the long process.

My low speed clunks turned out to be the **** job I did on my endlink installation. I pulled them off, tightened the bejeezus out of the heim joints, reinstalled them on the car and boom, silence. The car feels noticeably better. I'll bet yours does too!

Sick an Twsd

iTrader: (14)

I got a little crazy with PB plaster when installing my exhaust.... haven't had the clunk since... i also put anti-seize on my rear endlink bolts as well

dcains

iTrader: (15)

I took off the POS endlinks I bought from CZP and installed a set of Powergrids - nice and quiet, and no more embarrassment with a passenger in the car or when driving through the parking garage at work.

corsairprime

At this point in the thread this may only add mud to the water, but I have had a similar sounding problem since I swapped to the Hotchkis Sways and CZP endlinds. After the install there was lots of rattle noises from the suspension that I never heard before. Really a pisser to figure out where specifically they were coming from. To better diagnose the noise a common thread emerged. Each time I would try a new combination of washers, lock washers, lock nuts, the front end would quiet down for a short period of time. No more than a few days and the rattle noises would return. A while back I bought a product known as Silicone Rescue Tape, It's good for all sorts of things, Sealing hoses, wrapping leaky ones, etc.

Here's the URL if you want to read up on it:
http://www.rescuetape.com/index.php

I eventually realized through all of the permutations of endlink surgery that they were still loosening just enough from being tighted to make noises as the suspension travels. I ended up just recently, about 3 weeks ago, dismantling the endlink connection bolts and adding 1" squares of silicone rescue tape to the face side of each bolt or jam nut that rested against both the sway bar and the lower suspension member. Four squares on each side of the car. So far I can say the suspension has stayed quiet. I would offer that given the level of noise this sway bar change introduced when I first did it, the silicone tape has added the noise buffer that the Nissan original rubber covered endlinks had. One other thing I ended up adding at the end to help keep the lock nut from loosening is Blue locktite.

Just my experience. Hope this helps some of you out there.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like a temporary fix, as was Loctite Blue on mine, but just not worth the trouble to have to keep taking these junk endlinks apart all the time.

Of course the Powergrid or Whiteline cost 2X, but I've wasted much more of my time than that savings was worth. Should have listened to the forum, bought the Powergrids initially, and CZP needs to stop selling junk parts.

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Look at this if you have a clunk coming from the steering rack when turning the steering wheel left to right while the car is still. Basically the gears are loose inside the rack and you need to tighten them up. This can happen with a new or used rack if the adjustment screw is not tightened.

http://www.valvoline.com/car-care/au.../ccr20060701sr

This might solve the clunk some are experiencing

solidsnake

iTrader: (14)

Where did you purchase the new steering rack?

solidsnake

iTrader: (14)

Anyone know where to buy rebuilt Racks. From the factory they are hella expensive

Watkins

iTrader: (1)

I also have a WRX that I've used a rack from this company. No complaints at all.

solidsnake

iTrader: (14)

THANKS, that's a much better price.

Z350Steve

I have a clunk in my steering that gets worse over time. Mainly when taking speedbumps. I have a feeling it is a bushing somewhere because I can take my wheel off on the side of the clunk, spray the bushings with a silicone lubricant like wd40 and the noise goes away. Come to think about it I haven't sprayed the sway bar endlinks at all. Mainly the bushings that attach to chassis points. Every bushing I can see. I will replace all the bushings in the near future but there are more pressing issues at the moment. Just my 2cents

Rev_Night

iTrader: (3)

6 months later....any answer to this mans clunks?

awakened2001

Im having a similar issue. Its been a while that its been there now, i replaced ALL the front control arm bushings, replaced upper and lower ball joint. I did NOT replace compression rod or rear lca. new brakes and rotors, all bled free of air w/ new hardware but not new caliper. heres my best explanation.

It clunks when im moving forward and hit a bump (an echoing type of clunk that occurs more than once per bump [about 3 clunks on a speed bump]). If im moving forward and i press the brake it clunks once when the brake goes down, and once again when the brake comes up. if i turn the wheel to the right the clunk becomes more powerful, when i turn the wheel to the left it no longer clunks when i brake but still does over bumps. It went away two brake changes ago when i put new slide pins in for a SHORT time and then returned quickly. my rotors dont look like they are receiving an unusual contact nor do the pads. Im thinking it has to be a tie rod issue right?? or the rack and pinion (plz noooo). i am gonna jack up the front and try to isolate it tommorrow before work and ill follow up but im praying it isnt my rack. I did replace that steering link and its actually pretty easy to remove right from the rack. u Just looses the two bolts on each end of the U joint and then use a non shart object to tap it upward and off the rack. Dont lose that little blue spacer... mine broke a little so i put a ziptie around the top neck of it and now it seems to operate the same way anyways.. gonna replace that bastard too!

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Take the compression arms off and wiggle the ball joint on it. I think your pops and clunks are from the ball joint end of the compression rod

rottingcat

iTrader: (3)

crazy bump but just wanted to say thanks to thread starter for doing such a through job at finding this clunk

After running my car to the ground stock i upgraded the suspension completely solid bushings arms coils sways endlinks tie rod and i developed the same clunk as OP.
dealt with it for 6 months and it got a lot worse, just trying to park would be constantly clunking even medium braking i would get multiple clunks
My steering however was completely fine (although it felt not as crisp but could have been placebo) and did not leak at all.
Ordered steering rack bushings from ricochet (on ebay) since i read energy steering rack bushings did not fit like OEM. Ricochet fit very snugly and i would recommend over energy for sure.

Changed the rack today, and thank god all clunking is gone parking is smooth, slow speed turns smooth, braking all clunk free. Turn in feels sharp again and more precise! Or placebo who knows

PS old rack looked fine and old bushings looked good too... i guess you never know...