AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Read the title, Not much to describe...the head of the bolt is stripped. What do I do now to remove it? Anyone run into the same issue? I'm trying to remove my SPC arms I don't think I like them.

Wouldn't have stripped the head if I took the strut off first.

stuartc323

Vice grips on one end and wrench on the other

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input...Noticed the threads come out into the engine bay, just gotta remove the power steering reservoir. Didn't want to mess up the threads with vice grips so I was using them on bolt's head. I think I will use a bolt extractor socket on the head and maybe grab the threads on the other side at the same time...the head is completely stripped

Anyone care to share their experiences?

stuartc323

i would hope you would use the vice grips on the head and not the threads lol but thats the only way i have ever gotten bolts unstuck when the head was stripped, you could also spray some wd-40 on it let it sit for ten mins and than try to pry it off again

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

I read 45 lbs but I think I over tightened to like 70, I think the SPC inner bushings are shot...going to try to push some solids ones in there

AllstarE4

iTrader: (5)

If you grab the threads with a vice grip it may damage them and won't want to back out. A bolt extractor socket for the head of the bolt is all you should need.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

yes - the bolts that hold the upper control arm to the car is threaded into the engine bay with a welded in place square thread nut plate piece - there is no nut. so ya you have to grab the head somehow and remove it.

The bolt is a oem nissan special bolt, i remember it having somewhat of an old shape to it.

see pic:

-J

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Wish me luck guys...will be trying something like this maybe in the next few days

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

I got a new bolt from the dealer so I thought I would try to remove it again...lucky i found a nut in my stash that worked because I couldn't reuse the nut in the engine bay...The bolt extractor didn't work at all. Going to try to return it

So I got it from the engine bay by jamming a screw driver in the bracket holding the nut and then ripped the bracket off then was able to remove the bolt that way, check the pictures

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

My SPC control arm bushings are shot. Anyone know of a solid bushing replacement??

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

SPL arms

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Yea saw that, but saw the price too...will be purchasing Kinetix upper arms soon. Probably won't be able to sell my SPC arms if there is no bushing replacement.

The SPC arms are designed so poorly when you tighten the two bolts the inside metal sleeve is tight and the arms just goes up and down (with suspension movement) by twisting the bushing. The bushing just tears. I saw the Kinetix arms and the bushing is not linked to the arm or mount bolt so it will raise and lower on a better axis without destroying the bushing

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

yep....

-J

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

OEM is like that, so are many others. Causes a lot of stiction in the suspension system. When you install arms like that you are supposed to move the suspension to ride height before you tighten the bolts , so there is no load on the bushing when the wheels are on the ground. Only loading the bushing as the suspension moves in its travel.

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

The SPC arms are counterproductive... to set at ride hieght you need to push the arm all the way up into the top of the wheel if your car is low (2" or more) to tighten the mounting bolts, but then you can't access the camber nut!!! So you have to pull the arm down to access the nut tearing the bushings and doing this a couple time to finally get camber ok your bushings are already shot, they still move even at ride height if your suspension is flexing 1" when driving over dips on the highway