Clunk/rattle when depressing and releasing brake at low speed, going over bumps
01-28-2014, 04:20 PM
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Clunk/rattle when depressing and releasing brake at low speed, going over bumps
(This issue came up in another thread I started, but for the sake of future searchers with a similar problem and not derailing my own thread, here goes...)
Disclaimer: newb here.
The title kind of says it all, but for the sake of thoroughness, here are the nitty gritty details.
The issue:
Sound when braking and when releasing the brake at low speeds, all seems to be coming from front passenger side. The best description I can give of the sound is a clunk/rattle, kind of a metal-on-metal sound. It really only happens when I'm travelling at parking lot speeds (or at least I do not notice it at road speeds). It happens almost every time I apply the brake at low speeds, in particular if I "tap" the brake (as opposed to very gradually easing onto it). It's one clunk with depressing the brake and one clunk with releasing it, not a repetitive or rhythmic thing. I can also feel it (through the suspension, it seems), so it's not strictly sound. Feels about how it sounds--kind of a clunky/shifty feeling, like metal on metal shifting maybe? I'm grasping at straws there.
(Video/sound with me repeatedly tapping the brake when pulling into garage--sound is pretty evident, starts around :07)
ALSO, fairly frequently I get the same (or at least very similar) sound and feeling when going over speed bumps or moderate bumps in parking lots and when entering driveways with a moderate lip; again, I've only noticed it at low speeds and from front passenger side.
(Video/sound of low speed braking through parking lot, and going over a speed bump--braking ~:10, speed bump ~:13)
Hopefully the videos help give an idea of what's going on.
Things worth noting:
As far as I can recall, it seems to only happen when going forwards (not when backing out of driveway/parking spot).
Turning the steering wheel or making a hard turn does not produce the sound (unless I'm also at a low speed and braking, I guess).
Replaced rotors and brake pads fairly recently (about 2500 miles ago I think).
I had the compression rods, lower control arms (transverse link), and steering knuckles on both sides replaced recently, about 2000-2500 miles ago. All new OEM parts.
Even though they're new, I checked the bushings on the LCAs, as that seemed to be a common culprit in related threads I found, and my symptoms sound like bushing walk. Couldn't find anything wrong with them: control arm is centered on bushing and there's no evident play, bushings look fine to me (though I'm still new and learning what to look for), etc.
Upper control arm bushings look fine to me and have no evident play.
Took the wheel off last weekend and spent a little time poking around, couldn't find any evident play or evidently broken things, though again, I'm very new at this and still learning, so I guess there's a chance I could have completely overlooked a dead giveaway.
Front suspension is all OEM except Megan upper control arms.
I haven't tracked the car and I don't drive it recklessly and I haven't hit anything.
I'm pretty sure this is unrelated, but when I have to make a hard stop, I get a very loud pop coming from the front (not sure if driver/passenger or both sides)... again, I think this is unrelated and my guess is it's the upper control arm catching on something (though additional insight is welcome if you have it).
I searched, found lots of threads about clunking, but really couldn't find anyone who's had the same problem. From what I've heard/read (in my previous thread and in searching), clunks often come from busted LCA inner bushings (I'm pretty sure this isn't it) and busted sway bar endlinks.
Would all of the braking/releasing noise come from the endlink? I'm honestly not sure how to tell if the endlink is the problem. When I had the wheel off it looked fine to me... shifted it and the sway bar around a bit and didn't hear anything (the endlink and sway bar are supposed to be moveable by hand, right?)
Somebody learn me somethin' and help me fix this headache of a problem.
Many thanks!
Disclaimer: newb here.
The title kind of says it all, but for the sake of thoroughness, here are the nitty gritty details.
The issue:
Sound when braking and when releasing the brake at low speeds, all seems to be coming from front passenger side. The best description I can give of the sound is a clunk/rattle, kind of a metal-on-metal sound. It really only happens when I'm travelling at parking lot speeds (or at least I do not notice it at road speeds). It happens almost every time I apply the brake at low speeds, in particular if I "tap" the brake (as opposed to very gradually easing onto it). It's one clunk with depressing the brake and one clunk with releasing it, not a repetitive or rhythmic thing. I can also feel it (through the suspension, it seems), so it's not strictly sound. Feels about how it sounds--kind of a clunky/shifty feeling, like metal on metal shifting maybe? I'm grasping at straws there.
ALSO, fairly frequently I get the same (or at least very similar) sound and feeling when going over speed bumps or moderate bumps in parking lots and when entering driveways with a moderate lip; again, I've only noticed it at low speeds and from front passenger side.
Hopefully the videos help give an idea of what's going on.
Things worth noting:
As far as I can recall, it seems to only happen when going forwards (not when backing out of driveway/parking spot).
Turning the steering wheel or making a hard turn does not produce the sound (unless I'm also at a low speed and braking, I guess).
Replaced rotors and brake pads fairly recently (about 2500 miles ago I think).
I had the compression rods, lower control arms (transverse link), and steering knuckles on both sides replaced recently, about 2000-2500 miles ago. All new OEM parts.
Even though they're new, I checked the bushings on the LCAs, as that seemed to be a common culprit in related threads I found, and my symptoms sound like bushing walk. Couldn't find anything wrong with them: control arm is centered on bushing and there's no evident play, bushings look fine to me (though I'm still new and learning what to look for), etc.
Upper control arm bushings look fine to me and have no evident play.
Took the wheel off last weekend and spent a little time poking around, couldn't find any evident play or evidently broken things, though again, I'm very new at this and still learning, so I guess there's a chance I could have completely overlooked a dead giveaway.
Front suspension is all OEM except Megan upper control arms.
I haven't tracked the car and I don't drive it recklessly and I haven't hit anything.
I'm pretty sure this is unrelated, but when I have to make a hard stop, I get a very loud pop coming from the front (not sure if driver/passenger or both sides)... again, I think this is unrelated and my guess is it's the upper control arm catching on something (though additional insight is welcome if you have it).
I searched, found lots of threads about clunking, but really couldn't find anyone who's had the same problem. From what I've heard/read (in my previous thread and in searching), clunks often come from busted LCA inner bushings (I'm pretty sure this isn't it) and busted sway bar endlinks.
Would all of the braking/releasing noise come from the endlink? I'm honestly not sure how to tell if the endlink is the problem. When I had the wheel off it looked fine to me... shifted it and the sway bar around a bit and didn't hear anything (the endlink and sway bar are supposed to be moveable by hand, right?)
Somebody learn me somethin' and help me fix this headache of a problem.
Many thanks!
Last edited by SteveHolt!; 01-28-2014 at 04:23 PM. Reason: formatting
03-25-2014, 06:12 AM
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clunk/rattle
Exactly the same thing I'm experiencing. 138k miles, second owner. Bought a few months ago and just started noticing it, but my son has been driving.
I actually did some canyon driving this past weekend and the car was solid, no obvious steering/handling issues. Sticks like glue.
This car feels HEAVY at low speeds in town, but really comes alive in corners at speed, with stock suspension.
Much different than my lighter FRS
The clunk lifting up on brake, and low speed is very strange. At first I thought it was the brakes locking up/needing adjustment.
It seems some people have had the issue for years and no 'problem'...cant be right though!! haha
I actually did some canyon driving this past weekend and the car was solid, no obvious steering/handling issues. Sticks like glue.
This car feels HEAVY at low speeds in town, but really comes alive in corners at speed, with stock suspension.
Much different than my lighter FRS
The clunk lifting up on brake, and low speed is very strange. At first I thought it was the brakes locking up/needing adjustment.
It seems some people have had the issue for years and no 'problem'...cant be right though!! haha
07-13-2015, 09:01 AM
#7
Registered User
Sorry to dredge up an old topic but I have been banging my head on the wall for 2 months trying to solve this exact issue on my G35. I replaced the endlinks, replaced the caliper slides, and disassembled most of the offending side of the suspension to figure this out with no luck. I could not find bushing or balljoint clearance issues and I am about to take the stupid thing to the stealership for a diagnosis.
OP- did you ever figure this out? I have not found answer and I am quite frustrated.
edit: oh and I have about 77k miles on the car as well.
OP- did you ever figure this out? I have not found answer and I am quite frustrated.
edit: oh and I have about 77k miles on the car as well.
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khnitz (07-14-2020)
07-13-2015, 09:51 AM
#9
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Thank you. I will give that a try. The car is old enough that every bolt is tight from rust so I never considered that it could be loose under the nut. I will have to break it loose and give it a torquing.
07-16-2015, 12:44 PM
#10
Registered User
I broke loose and tightened the heck out of the offending side's uca balljoint nut but I still have the same symptoms 
I had an old civic with a bad UCA balljoint that had the same symptoms but I could actually wiggle that balljoint in its socket, whereas I cannot do that on my G. I am at a loss once again, but I am tempted just to replace the UCA balljoint and see if that does anything.
Any more wisdom on this?
I had an old civic with a bad UCA balljoint that had the same symptoms but I could actually wiggle that balljoint in its socket, whereas I cannot do that on my G. I am at a loss once again, but I am tempted just to replace the UCA balljoint and see if that does anything.
Any more wisdom on this?
07-16-2015, 01:22 PM
#11
Sorry to dredge up an old topic but I have been banging my head on the wall for 2 months trying to solve this exact issue on my G35. I replaced the endlinks, replaced the caliper slides, and disassembled most of the offending side of the suspension to figure this out with no luck. I could not find bushing or balljoint clearance issues and I am about to take the stupid thing to the stealership for a diagnosis.
OP- did you ever figure this out? I have not found answer and I am quite frustrated.
edit: oh and I have about 77k miles on the car as well.
OP- did you ever figure this out? I have not found answer and I am quite frustrated.
edit: oh and I have about 77k miles on the car as well.
07-16-2015, 02:26 PM
#12
I broke loose and tightened the heck out of the offending side's uca balljoint nut but I still have the same symptoms
I had an old civic with a bad UCA balljoint that had the same symptoms but I could actually wiggle that balljoint in its socket, whereas I cannot do that on my G. I am at a loss once again, but I am tempted just to replace the UCA balljoint and see if that does anything.
Any more wisdom on this?
I had an old civic with a bad UCA balljoint that had the same symptoms but I could actually wiggle that balljoint in its socket, whereas I cannot do that on my G. I am at a loss once again, but I am tempted just to replace the UCA balljoint and see if that does anything.
Any more wisdom on this?
11-15-2015, 01:58 PM
#13
Registered User
Solved!!!
Hello everyone,
I just wanted to share the conclusion of this saga.
I gave in and took the car to a reputable shop for a diagnosis and they could not find the cause of the noise. They suggested swaybar bushings or the strut hat but I had my doubts. I replaced the swaybar bushings and of course, it made no difference.
Just yesterday, I decided to completely unload the suspension in a last ditch effort. I disconnected the swaybar and removed the strut assembly and shook each part as hard as I could. I finally noticed a faint knock in the compression rod balljoint so I removed it and what do you know: the balljoint had less than a millimeter of play in it but that was enough to cause that awful knocking. After replacing it, I finally have silence.
In conclusion, if you have this type of issue, you may have to fully remove the compression rod from the vehicle or unload the suspension to accurately diagnose this. No amount of pushing, pulling, prying, or shakedown (mine and the mechanic) would reproduce this due to the insanely small mount of play in this compression rod ball joint. It has a surprisingly large amount of force on it when it is installed with the swaybar and strut assembly attached.
I just wanted to share the conclusion of this saga.
I gave in and took the car to a reputable shop for a diagnosis and they could not find the cause of the noise. They suggested swaybar bushings or the strut hat but I had my doubts. I replaced the swaybar bushings and of course, it made no difference.
Just yesterday, I decided to completely unload the suspension in a last ditch effort. I disconnected the swaybar and removed the strut assembly and shook each part as hard as I could. I finally noticed a faint knock in the compression rod balljoint so I removed it and what do you know: the balljoint had less than a millimeter of play in it but that was enough to cause that awful knocking. After replacing it, I finally have silence.
In conclusion, if you have this type of issue, you may have to fully remove the compression rod from the vehicle or unload the suspension to accurately diagnose this. No amount of pushing, pulling, prying, or shakedown (mine and the mechanic) would reproduce this due to the insanely small mount of play in this compression rod ball joint. It has a surprisingly large amount of force on it when it is installed with the swaybar and strut assembly attached.
Last edited by madmax032; 11-15-2015 at 02:01 PM.
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khnitz (07-14-2020)
02-26-2016, 09:23 AM
#15
Registered User
They did a visual inspection, shakedown on the lift, and test drive, but I believe that is all that they did. There was no special method employed that I am aware of.
02-26-2016, 10:44 AM
#17
Registered User
Sorry to hear that! You say you have a tracking issue; is there a sound associated with it?
Has your Z ever had accident damage? I somehow managed to hit a curb with my G and that permanently threw off my front camber a bit.
Another thing to consider is tire width/type: I went from 225s to 245s on a previous car and despite a perfect alignment (checked multiple times by a reputable shop) the 245s directly resulted in some pull to one side. I don't know if it was the asymmetrical tread, lack of available caster, or some other strange factor but despite no known accident damage, it pulled slightly.
Has your Z ever had accident damage? I somehow managed to hit a curb with my G and that permanently threw off my front camber a bit.
Another thing to consider is tire width/type: I went from 225s to 245s on a previous car and despite a perfect alignment (checked multiple times by a reputable shop) the 245s directly resulted in some pull to one side. I don't know if it was the asymmetrical tread, lack of available caster, or some other strange factor but despite no known accident damage, it pulled slightly.
02-26-2016, 10:48 AM
#18
Sorry to hear that! You say you have a tracking issue; is there a sound associated with it?
Has your Z ever had accident damage? I somehow managed to hit a curb with my G and that permanently threw off my front camber a bit.
Another thing to consider is tire width/type: I went from 225s to 245s on a previous car and despite a perfect alignment (checked multiple times by a reputable shop) the 245s directly resulted in some pull to one side. I don't know if it was the asymmetrical tread, lack of available caster, or some other strange factor but despite no known accident damage, it pulled slightly.
Has your Z ever had accident damage? I somehow managed to hit a curb with my G and that permanently threw off my front camber a bit.
Another thing to consider is tire width/type: I went from 225s to 245s on a previous car and despite a perfect alignment (checked multiple times by a reputable shop) the 245s directly resulted in some pull to one side. I don't know if it was the asymmetrical tread, lack of available caster, or some other strange factor but despite no known accident damage, it pulled slightly.
