350Speed

iTrader: (20)

Hi everyone,

My car is running on Tokico D-specs setup, and the front is out of spec (see pic below). Therefore, I've purchased the Kinetix UCA and ready to install tomorrow. I would like to ask question below. Thanks in advance.

1) From doing research, I know a full turn of the ball joint is about .18 deg. Please see the spec below and let me know how far do I screw the ball joint onto the arm to get it back into spec for both sides?

pyshin

iTrader: (14)

The most practical way would be to remove the stock FUCA's and hold each up to their Kinetix counterparts, match the length as closely as possible before installing the new FUCA's and simply taking it back for a professional front alignment afterwards.

clubhopper

iTrader: (6)

Is it just me but the front left and right camber measurement way off. Are these with the stock upper a-arms? They should be roughly the same no?

If your paper measurement are with the stock arms on the car it'll be hard to first get your kinetix arms to the same reference point as what is on the car now. Recommend you put the arms on, thread them in fully so you have a new point of reference of starting camber...then work to decrease camber from there.

pyshin

iTrader: (14)

^^^ If he threaded the ball joints all the way in I think the camber would be much more than ~1 deg. off at most as it is from the stock arms right now... What would be the point in starting at such a skewed point? If he threaded as close to the stock length on each side now it would only need ~.3 deg. on the left and ~.9 deg. on the right to get it back to the spec sheet. Idk maybe there's a reason behind going max camber and adjusting but I've had multiple alignment professionals explain matching the stock length is the most effective.

clubhopper

iTrader: (6)

^^sorry should have explained...stock length is approximately all the way in something like 10" center of spindle to center of bushing (because of the thick adjustment lock nut)...Due to the height increase of the kinetix arms and measuring error it will be different vs what is on paper...but it'll be close. But not 100% precise. It's best to get the arms up there adjust these at the alignment shop if the alignment professional can shoot an image and then thread in and out as necessary (.18 degree)...probably the easiest method out there.

I had these arms but they are off the car now as I raised it last week. Either way I think something is skewed if on stock oem a arms camber is -1.6 and -2.2.

In any case, we are saying pretty much the same thing here...which is start at a known length and work to the correct camber. I'm on oems arms right now and my camber is -1.7 both sides at my ride height (just came back from the alignment shop this morning)...so I'm more worried about the op's oem a arms giving over half a degree difference of camber.

pyshin

iTrader: (14)

^^^ Makes more sense now, thanks for the clarification