Tartan1749

After a few months it's complete and since I didn't go the normal route, here's the story:

I bought the aluminum brackets off of ebay for ~$90, EBC red pads on ebay for about ~$80, and a set of drilled and slotted rotors for under $170. I was able to get a rebuilt Cardone passenger caliper very easily for $140. I waited for a couple of months waiting for a rebuilt driver's caliper to become available, but no dice. So I bought another passenger caliper.

As the calipers are the same casting, I figured I'd do a little drilling and tapping. Instead of trying to drill perfectly concentric holes with a certain taper, I bought some of Wilwood's 1/8 NPT bleed screw kit. The NPT threads would ensure a leak free mod.

First, I made myself a jig out of scraps laying around to hold the caliper vertical.



Now, despite by jig, the drilling didn't go as precise as I would have liked, but I was able to drill the larger dia for the 1/8" NPT tap.



I then took a smaller drill to continue onto the inner cavity of the caliper. I did this on both halves of the caliper and then tapped the 1/8" NPT, then installed my Wilwood jobbies.



I didn't worry about removing the original bleeders at the <now> bottom, just tightened them real good. Then I dropped them off at a local powder coater who kind of specializes in calipers and wheels. $125 for a bit of prep and coating.



Everything got installed yesterday (using the stock brake lines) on my '06 Z





So, all in for a little over $700 and looking the business.

Seth

jv350z

iTrader: (6)

I thought a new front caliper could be had for $200...Looks good though

Phenom

iTrader: (4)

Now it's time for some SS lines.

mr. sparco

iTrader: (13)

I like that, good job.

BigBlue

iTrader: (4)

Man, quite a project, but it looks good! How do they feel to you so far?

Tartan1749

I was not able to find new ones for $200, so I went the remanufactured route. The brakes feel great. They are arguably more stopping power than that car needs on the street, but they fill the wheel out better now, if for no other reason.

kilogram

iTrader: (1)

Keep an eye on your pad wear, since you're running staggered bores the wrong direction on that caliper. You may get some pad taper, though that's not exactly the end of the world. Red stuff are good pads, but they wear quickly when hot. Just something to keep an eye on. Good job on piecing it all together... After seeing prices fall on the akebono stuff, I almost wish I had gone that direction.

SirSpeedyZ

iTrader: (10)

I'd be pretty scared buying adapter's on ebay, I pieced together a kit by buying calipers from carparts online
Paid less than $140 per caliper for the front and about 80 a piece for the rear

Tartan1749

Why is that? machined aluminum that fits is machined aluminum. This doesn't make any sense to me.

Tartan1749

Are you sure the pistons are different diameters? ConceptZperformance has them listed as 4x40mm. the casting for left and right are the same, so I don't know why the bores would be different. Even if they are, I'm pretty sure 1-2mm won't be an issue.

kilogram

iTrader: (1)

The 300zx calipers were 4x40mm.

Centric lists the leading as like 41 mm and the trailing is 44.5mm. The faces of the pistons might be 40mm, but the bores are larger. This is standard practice on any performance caliper. The castings can be the same between both sides while the bores are machined differently.

Like I said, not the end of the world, but keep an eye out for pad taper.

Tartan1749

Great info, kilo - thanks and will do!