Stinvil93

Ok guys like the title says my front wheel is leaning inwards / <---- example. The driver side looks like this |. So my question is do I just adjust camber or may have something went out? My ball joints look like their ready to go both side are torn and when I turn left I have a squeal coming from the driver side wheel. Any insight would be greatly apreciated.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you need to take it to an alignment shop. Have the ball joints replaced and fix whatever I making that squealing sound.

Then have a 4 wheel alignment done.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

unless you have after market UCAs camber is not adjustable

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.... ..............

I forgot about that.

One more thing to add to my list of parts to buy to get my car straightened out. I have so much damn negative camber it's chewing through tires in half the time it used to.

soc_monki

iTrader: (2)

bushings, ball joints, bent suspension members...get under there and find the problem/problems and fix them, get an alignment, and enjoy your non-tire shredding car.

Stinvil93

I recently had an alignment but the car goes straight but I guess due to that one wheel it pulls very a little to the right. I will take it to the alignment shop again tomorrow and have it looked at again. I do have SPC upper arms. And yeah from the front of the car is it just / sunk in not dramatically but the negative camber is defiantly their. Going to get this fixed before I send the Z off for paint in 2 weeks. I'll get under the car now and see what's up. I did the LCA myself a while back everything seemed fine.

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Simple as adjusting the SPC upper camber arm. Small adjustments though, that ball joint can slide fast. Depending how low your car is you might have to take the shock off the lower control arm to drop it down to adjust it when it's on the alignment rack.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

most shops, unless tuner shops, will not touch em because they didnt come from the factory adjustable

Stinvil93

Ok guys here is a quick update. I changed my ball joints by myself and that is something I will prob never do again without a impact air/electric wrench lol. I swear I almost caught a hernia lol. My driving after the install with the new ball joints is amazing. I took my Z into the shop to have an alignment. My passenger side which is the wheel with the leaning inwards tire was -3.4. My driver side was -1.0 I believe. Driver side was upright and look fine and had no tilt. The mechanic told me that my knuckle may be bent. I was thinking maby the tire rod was just over extended causing the wheel to poke out. Both tire rods measured out to be the same. So I am assuming he is right and will prob change out my whole knuckle assembly. Has any one changed it out and it does seem straight forward.

-remove brake caliper/bracket/rotor
-Remove the upper control arm bolt/cotter pin connected to the knuckle.
-remove tie rod bolt/cotter pin from knuckle
-remove ball joint bolt/cotter pin from knuckle
-remove what I think was 4-5 bolt on the back of the knuckle that holds the hub.

Then pretty much re-install the new one right?? I'll take some pics so you guys can have an idea of the degree of how my tilt looks..

FOOKhonda

iTrader: (1)

Non tire shredding car??
We are still talking about a Z right? Lol

Stinvil93

Tire isn't shredding or wearing bad but overtime it will. the contact patch just isn't flat or even. Due to the angle the wheel sits at. I'll be ordering the knuckle and new tie rods since my tie rods had a little play to them. Changing both inner and outer. Then I'll deal with knuckle.