gothy666

Searched and searched on this but can't really find a definitive answer.
I just bought an '08 with 54k miles on it. The ride feels a bit softer then my previous 09 RX8 and '08 MX5, but maybe because the both Mazda's had about 20k less miles . I've thus got two questions;

1. How long are the stock shocks supposed to last on the 08's? Is it time to replace the shocks regardless?

2. Will Tokico HP shocks work on an otherwise stock suspension. I don't plan on ever auto crossing the car, so I don't feel the need to spend the money on Koni coilovers, or something of that cost.

Thanks!

Spike100

Answers to your questions...

1. Nissan supplies high quality parts in the 350z’s suspension. Under normal driving, you can expect your shocks to last 100k miles or even longer.

2. Tokico HP shocks will function well on a stock suspension.

gothy666

Thanks for the reply! So if I was aiming for a better handling/slightly firmer ride, would my money be better spent in some good front/rear sways?

I will add that this is not a daily driven car. This is a purely a secondary vehicle for my wife and I as I ride the subway to work. Thus, if there is still some life if my stock shocks (maybe 10k miles), that equates to at least 5 years for me. I'm looking for bang for the buck.

Spike100

You easily have 5 years and tens’ of thousands of miles remaining in your OEM shocks. Your current shocks and springs will run for many more years.

Most of us replacing shocks and springs (with aftermarket springs or coilovers) do so to gain better handling and appearance. And… It gives us something to do/research and a place to spend our money.

Spike100

Better front and rear sway bars certainly improve handling, but you need to coordinate this with shocks and springs.

gothy666

If it were up to you, and you only wanted to spend $400 on handling/ride, would you go better sways or Tokico HP shocks?

Spike100

Do it in this order:

1. Upgrade shocks.
2. Replace springs
3. Swap sway bars compatible with your shock/spring setup

gothy666

Good to know. In that case, should I just wait until I can do a more "premium" shock like Koni's? Or are the Tokico HP's actually worth a damn?

Spike100

I would purchase better shocks and moderate lowering springs. My preference is Bilstein shocks with Tein or Swift springs.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

The factory springs are actually really good, no need to replace them unless you want to lower the car. There are a few springs out there that offer better performance, but it's not that much better. Shocks, normal life span of quality dampening is around 60k miles. Toss up on what direction to go IMO, sway bars or shocks. Sways are needed and give you time to figure out the rest of suspension plans

MicVelo

Wow, for the first time ever, I disagree with Spike! Well, only "sorta"....

I would agree IF the shocks were dead. (And they will be after about 60-70k unless your driving is 95% freeway).

However, as far as real handling increases, I would go with sway bars FIRST. And that's after serious soul searching and deciding you want HANDLING. I say all this because frankly, the shock and springs in the stock-Z are very good and very well matched to the Z33 chassis. I ran (read: "pushed hard") stock set up for 18 months before going with new set-up.

That said, with a good set of sway bars, the attitude of the car in turns changes dynamically. And, with adjustable bars (not price too much higher than "static" spring rate bars), you can tune the car to your level of performance and ability.

OP, you have to understand that Spike and I agree on just about every dang thing regarding our street set-ups so don't let this minor variance affect your thinking because either way you go isn't necessarily "wrong" or "more right". They both work well.... just a matter of prioritizing the dollars.

Cheers,

Mic

Spike100

I put aftermarket shocks springs, and sway bars on at the same time; and I had a big improvement in handling. I suppose I can't really say for sure which component made the most significant contribution.

Mic is correct about Nissan's high quality OEM suspension parts. My original shocks had over 90k miles and the shop told me they were in good shape.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Good shape and working at full potential are two different things. The problem is, a shock dyno would be needed to check what they are really are.

Spike100

Testing the OEM Nissan shocks… We (the shop and I) did not do a quantitative analysis, but instead conducted a qualitative analysis. The shocks compared to new were surprisingly good.

You mention a “shock dyno.” What are the values returned by this device for adequate shocks?

MicVelo

And we all know that terrasmak has one of these in his garage. Why, he even corner weights his car in his garage (prolly serious about that... ).

These "racer-types" sure do make the rest of us street guys look like piker rookies. Hahahahahaha!!

Mic

Spike100

^^ "shock dyno" ... I had to google that one.

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

What you look for in a shock dyno varies from one platform to another in terms of absolute values (eg the specific force/velocity/displacement values).

What you can look for, without having experience with shock dynos on a given platform, are certain characteristics that generally connote a "good" damper, such as:

-digressive nature (eg. at what velocity does damping force begin to taper off, where the shim stacks start to move, the slope of the "leg", etc)
-seal drag
-low/medium speed part of f/v curve (generally this is where a damper can really shine or not - where response to driver inputs matter most)
-high speed part of f/v curve (does force just skyrocket, or do you have a nice flat high speed comp curve?) the more digressive the flatter the high speed curve will be
-hysteresis (how consistent does the curve remain after temperature and input rate changes)
-the relationship between the compression and rebound curves
-the relationship between front to rear valving
-the relationship between left/right valving (are they "matched")
-consistency of valving as it sweeps through the range of settings (you can test all of the above for each damper setting and compare)

A worn shock will, to varying degrees, demonstrate diminished performance in one or many of the above. Plus without a baseline you won't have anything to compare, so it becomes a relative comparison at that point anyway. Damper tuning is definitely a "black art," rarely can a purely quantitative analysis provide the full picture.

Spike100

^^ Thanks for additional information. I admit being lost here.