Two stupid questions.
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Two stupid questions.
Just got some used OEM Brembos to put on my 07 Enthusiast. I also bought stainless steel brake lines from Z1 Motorsports that are configured like the OEM lines.
So stupid question #1 (I think I know the answer). The Brembos have two bleed valves. I'm assuming both have to be bled, right? Does it matter which one you bleed first, inboard or outboard? I'm assuming inboard first.
Stupid question #2. This brake line set comes in multiple parts (2 braided hoses and 1 hard line per each front and 1 braided hose and 1 hard line per rear). So when I connect these lines do I need to prepare the threads in any way, like with Permatex or something like that?
Thanks for any help.
So stupid question #1 (I think I know the answer). The Brembos have two bleed valves. I'm assuming both have to be bled, right? Does it matter which one you bleed first, inboard or outboard? I'm assuming inboard first.
Stupid question #2. This brake line set comes in multiple parts (2 braided hoses and 1 hard line per each front and 1 braided hose and 1 hard line per rear). So when I connect these lines do I need to prepare the threads in any way, like with Permatex or something like that?
Thanks for any help.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Bleed the inside first. Threads on the lines are installed dry.
There is a specific bleed order on the FSM stating which caliper to bleed first, second, . . .
Oddly enough, it varies by year. If you don't let the system run dry, I haven't found it to make any difference, and use the traditional method of farthest to nearest from the MC.
There is a specific bleed order on the FSM stating which caliper to bleed first, second, . . .
Oddly enough, it varies by year. If you don't let the system run dry, I haven't found it to make any difference, and use the traditional method of farthest to nearest from the MC.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Makes sense.
Did some reading and that's what folks are saying. Seems strange. There are no o-rings or gaskets or anything. I guess the flared end just matches perfectly with the nipple end.
I used to try to follow that but even when I do a complete bleed and forget to follow it, it doesn't seem to matter, like you said. For this project I'll probably look it up and try to follow it.
Threads on the lines are installed dry.
There is a specific bleed order on the FSM stating which caliper to bleed first, second, . . .
Oddly enough, it varies by year. If you don't let the system run dry, I haven't found it to make any difference, and use the traditional method of farthest to nearest from the MC.
Oddly enough, it varies by year. If you don't let the system run dry, I haven't found it to make any difference, and use the traditional method of farthest to nearest from the MC.
#4
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
Inboard, outboard, then I go back and hit the inboard for another pump just to check.
Never had any luck bleeding the Z , I've followed the FRM and nothing helps but a pressure bleeder.
Never had any luck bleeding the Z , I've followed the FRM and nothing helps but a pressure bleeder.
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Do you mean the bleeder or the brake lines? The bleeder is a Motive.
The brake lines are the premium ones. They are extremely well made and have the brass block fittings which mount directly to the stock mounting locations. If you are upgrading to Brembos you have to get the OEM hard lines to mount to the calipers. Z1 sells these too and they are cheap. When done it will appear completely stock except that the hoses are braided SS.
I now have a bigger problem. Three of the bleeder screws were seized and I stripped the threads on one of the front calipers. There is a seized bleed screw in both of the rears.
I'm off this afternoon to find a garage or machine shop that can drill and tap the stripped one and put a repair kit in it. I'll probably get them to get the other two bleeder screws out. Will probably require heat.
The repair kits are cheap and a tap set can be had for less than $75 but I'm going to let a pro do this. I think if I messed up the tap there might be limited material for another drill out.
The brake lines are the premium ones. They are extremely well made and have the brass block fittings which mount directly to the stock mounting locations. If you are upgrading to Brembos you have to get the OEM hard lines to mount to the calipers. Z1 sells these too and they are cheap. When done it will appear completely stock except that the hoses are braided SS.
I now have a bigger problem. Three of the bleeder screws were seized and I stripped the threads on one of the front calipers. There is a seized bleed screw in both of the rears.
I'm off this afternoon to find a garage or machine shop that can drill and tap the stripped one and put a repair kit in it. I'll probably get them to get the other two bleeder screws out. Will probably require heat.
The repair kits are cheap and a tap set can be had for less than $75 but I'm going to let a pro do this. I think if I messed up the tap there might be limited material for another drill out.
Trending Topics
#8
Do you mean the bleeder or the brake lines? The bleeder is a Motive.
The brake lines are the premium ones. They are extremely well made and have the brass block fittings which mount directly to the stock mounting locations. If you are upgrading to Brembos you have to get the OEM hard lines to mount to the calipers. Z1 sells these too and they are cheap. When done it will appear completely stock except that the hoses are braided SS.
I now have a bigger problem. Three of the bleeder screws were seized and I stripped the threads on one of the front calipers. There is a seized bleed screw in both of the rears.
I'm off this afternoon to find a garage or machine shop that can drill and tap the stripped one and put a repair kit in it. I'll probably get them to get the other two bleeder screws out. Will probably require heat.
The repair kits are cheap and a tap set can be had for less than $75 but I'm going to let a pro do this. I think if I messed up the tap there might be limited material for another drill out.
The brake lines are the premium ones. They are extremely well made and have the brass block fittings which mount directly to the stock mounting locations. If you are upgrading to Brembos you have to get the OEM hard lines to mount to the calipers. Z1 sells these too and they are cheap. When done it will appear completely stock except that the hoses are braided SS.
I now have a bigger problem. Three of the bleeder screws were seized and I stripped the threads on one of the front calipers. There is a seized bleed screw in both of the rears.
I'm off this afternoon to find a garage or machine shop that can drill and tap the stripped one and put a repair kit in it. I'll probably get them to get the other two bleeder screws out. Will probably require heat.
The repair kits are cheap and a tap set can be had for less than $75 but I'm going to let a pro do this. I think if I messed up the tap there might be limited material for another drill out.
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was talking about the lines. The blocks on my kit don't fit on the OEM shock mounts. Just curious if all the brass mounting blocks were the same size in your kit. Or were the ones designed to fit on the shock a little thinner?
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-question.html
#9
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was talking about the lines. The blocks on my kit don't fit on the OEM shock mounts. Just curious if all the brass mounting blocks were the same size in your kit. Or were the ones designed to fit on the shock a little thinner?
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-question.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-question.html
+1 on Motive bleeder. I have a basic set up and it works great on all of my cars.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
The blocks on my kit don't fit on the OEM shock mounts. Just curious if all the brass mounting blocks were the same size in your kit. Or were the ones designed to fit on the shock a little thinner?
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-question.html
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...-question.html
I think it is unfortunate that these lines, which were made and advertised to fit in the stock locations, do not fit. They cost more than regular lines too. I would think that Z1 Motorsports wouldn't carry such an item without giving a warning at least. Maybe the OEM Brembo set up has wider spacing between the tabs? Even so, Z1 sells these as a Brembo upgrade solution.
Having said all that, it isn't that big of a deal. I'll probably just grind off the tabs on one side. But what a PITA.
The brass mounting blocks fit fine in the tabs on the bracket on the back of the rear calipers FWIW.
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
It looks like your car is a Nismo so the cars with OEM Brembos must have wider mounting brackets that the OEM sliding caliper cars.
It also looks like in the OP's picture that you could just use a punch and a hammer to fold the tabs back down without cutting them off. I'll probably try that first.
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
I had the same lines from Z1 and returned them. I bought a set of StopTech's, which eliminated all those extra fittings and the OEM hard lines, and it was a very simple install. The fronts need to be routed properly, but there's a old thread here with good pictures.
#13
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
The lines from Z1 are not Z1 branded.
It looks like your car is a Nismo so the cars with OEM Brembos must have wider mounting brackets that the OEM sliding caliper cars.
It also looks like in the OP's picture that you could just use a punch and a hammer to fold the tabs back down without cutting them off. I'll probably try that first.
It looks like your car is a Nismo so the cars with OEM Brembos must have wider mounting brackets that the OEM sliding caliper cars.
It also looks like in the OP's picture that you could just use a punch and a hammer to fold the tabs back down without cutting them off. I'll probably try that first.
#14
Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it. I'm gonna buy a grinder tomorrow and get rid of them.
I'm pretty much done with Z1 after this experience. It's a long story, but their customer service is pathetic.
I'm pretty much done with Z1 after this experience. It's a long story, but their customer service is pathetic.
Last edited by JBJ; 03-04-2016 at 05:22 PM.
#15
New Member
I wonder if people are torquing the bleed screws down too much. They don't need to be *that* tight and are made of soft material, which is going into even softer material (aluminum). I came very close to stripping my old stock ones (non-Brembo) and thus learned to be very careful with my Akebonos.
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
You're correct in stating that the bleeder screws don't need to be very tight. I wonder if the screws seize because the brakes aren't bled on a regular basis. I bleed mine at least twice a year, but the screws and calipers are dissimilar metals, and if you leave the bleeders untouched for years, corrosion is likely to occur.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ipodhustle
SoCal Marketplace
5
03-08-2016 06:45 PM