vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Yesterday my car felt like it was floating while driving.


Especially when I changed gears the car felt like it was bouncing left then right. I'm assuming shocks have finally seen the end of days. I just wanna check here first since I'm not a certified mechanic by any means but it seems pretty obvious and I just wanna verify here with you guys.


Not lowered it a roadster 2004 with 89,000 miles on it and I'm pretty sure they are the original parts on it since I bought it in 09 with only 19,000 miles on it.


So basically my car is riding on springs which is absolutely unsafe right now right guys.


Need to drive it like grandma till I replace shocks later this week am I correct.


Thanks for any input and any recommendations on a good deal for shocks all around would be great too.

Thanks All


Angelo T.
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Spike100

I have a 2003 on which I replaced the shocks at about 85k. The shocks were definitely starting to get tired, but still OK to drive on.

Your problem description sounds like worn shocks, but it seems too extreme.

Did this handling issue happen suddenly? If so, you probably have a single blown shock. If one shock needs replacement, you change all four.

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Yes it happened suddenly yesterday in fact. Now when I get to about 40 - 60 mph and I shift at high rpm's like between 3-4000 the car feels bouncy like left to right exactly like a shock or 2 are blown completely.


The other day I was driving pretty fast on a curvy road cause I was running late an I think that's the culprit of finally blowing a shock or 2.


Also if I stay in high rpm range and get on the gas and let go I feel the bounciness or at high speeds the car feels like she wants to turn away from me.


I am definitely planning on replacing all four shocks for sure.


Anyone have any recommendations on a good set of shocks at
decent price?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

have you checked for broken end links? i had a grand cherokee they snapped on and it was down right scary to drive

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I'm plan on doing this job myself what parts will I need to
do it complete and right.


Obviously four shocks, but will I need boots, mounts, or anything else to get it done right and complete?

MicVelo

^^^ Totally agree with Trav here.

Shock failure, even total blowouts don't generally manifest themselves that quickly. Sounds more like a snap failure of another component.

Too many things that could cause sudden vehicle control issues to list but I'll start with the obvious....

Have you checked your tires?

You could have a leak and lost half or more of your tire pressure on one tire which could EASILY cause the issues you describe.

If the tires are OK, I'd take it to an alignment shop to have them check the alignment - generally free for checks on the hopes you'll have correction work done with them - and while underneath, they can (or should) do a full suspension component inspection.

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Ok checking endlinks now travlee air is ok MicVelo

travlee

iTrader: (8)

if it were me, i would locate and isolate the problem instead of throwing parts at it.

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Front end links look fine rechecking air in all tires now then doing a test drive be back in 15 min

air is fine in all tires checked**************

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

I replaced lower control arm front bushings new Upper A arms and new bushings on front lower control arms I know the ball joint on the front lower control arms are bad so i plan on replacing those soon. That shouldnt make me feel what im feeling while driving though

MicVelo

Yup. And not much else anyone here can offer without putting hands on it, sorry.

Get it up on an alignment rack.

jhc

10mm socket
17 mm
14mm "
Adj wrench
Offset 17mm box wrench
Spring compressor from parts store.
Jack and stands

Backs are piece of pie, fronts more complex but doable if your even fair w a wrench. Just diy my Eibach pros, much more firm and planted. Plenty of YT to watch, gl, post up results!

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna take it to Tire Kingdom tomorrow I have a 3 yrs alignment contract with them and Ill also check they suspension.


Can you tell me what to look for while shes up in the air so I have a good idea what to look for. All arms and bushings tie rods and end links.


What else am I missing that I should also check?


Thanks guys again

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

@jhc I'm planning on doing the shocks anyways so thanks for the quick info and reply on the how to. And I'll post up results after I'm done with the job.

MicVelo

The obvious VISIBLE broken parts that include most of the bushings. BUT, broken suspension parts don't readily avail themselves to a visual inspection. The tech should inspect all of the tie rods, compression rod and it's bushings, sway bar links and bushings, etc. FOR PLAY in them. You can't see them but you can feel them if they're moving around when not supposed to. Any trained alignment tech should be able to check more detailed.

But they'll need to check alignment specs first because 8 of 10 times, that will pinpoint where the most likely trouble spots will be.

S'far as shocks that you asked about...

Replacement shock units in price descending order:

Koni Adjustable (Yellows) - about $1k per set. Expect lowering of ride comfort even at softest setting but way better spring control.

Bilstein B6 or B8 (specific for lowered cars) - These offer, IMO, the best ride and noticeable improvement in control; about $1k/set.

Note: I run Koni's and before that Bilstein; much prefer Bilstein but like the adjustability of the Koni's.

Tokico D-Spec - about $700-800/set if you can find them as they are no longer in production. Adjustable, like the Konis and have an excellent rating from people here and about. One forum member just got a set though so they're out there.

Tokico HP ("Blues") - about $4-500/set BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK. Genuine handling and ride improvement over stock. These are "legacy shocks", one of the longest standing performance shocks available. If you don't track your car (and even if you do actually), this is most cost effective - emphasis on "effective" - way to go.

Good luck finding the problem!

jhc

Honestly, describe to the service writer what you said here, ask for an estimate, then decide if you have the skill/interest/tools to do the job yourself. Good luck, buddy!
A gentle warning. If you do fronts, take it seriously and drink your beer when done, not before. gl!

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

TYVM jhc, MicVelo and everybody else. So far I have installed


New SPL upper A arms V3
SPL Compression rod bushings
(make clucking noise and need to replace arm since balljoint end is bad anyway and new arm with OEM bushing will stop noise and since balljoint is bad)
SPL Front lower arm inner bushings (OEM bad caused front end sway)
SPL Titanium Rear Camber arm
SPC rear toe Lock plates and bolt (square plate camber now adjusted from camber arm)
New OEM front End Links (old ones were creaking and squeaking)


I have a 3 yr alignment so I'll have car checked tomorrow and I'll update
within a day or two.


And I'll probably go for best bang for the buck and go with the Tokico HP Blues
unless I can find a good deal on the D-Specs which I have had my heart set on.
Maybe Kyle Puckett at importpartspro.com has a good deal for me he has been
a good sales person to me in the past.


I need to be cost-conscience since I have been by kidney failure and I am on disability
and have not been able to start work yet.


And working on my car has gotten a lot harder since I am weaker since the disease because it has caused
muscle wasting and also my energy levels have gone to zero.


Front end brake job used to take me 30 minutes to do now it takes
me 1hr to 2hrs because of this disgusting illness I am dealing with
eh se la vie I guess


Once again thanks for the help and I'll post results along the way

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

OK guys took it to Tire Kingdom and put it up on the rack. All as I suspected.

We checked end links and tie rod ends. All good
All bushings good except for the fact that the compression rod bushings from SPL allow
too much play and cause a rattle sound and since the ball joints on the other end of the arm are bad Im gonna replace those.

But yeah basically a shock or 2 seem to be completely blown. Shifting at high rpms is causing the car to squat extensively and then when shifting bounces forward extensively

Or at high rpm if I stomp the gas and then let off of it the cars front end points upward and then the front dips when I let off the gas so rather than the car leveling from the shocks it feels like shes bouncing on springs

Im going with the HP Blues from Tokico as conceptZperformance.com has them for 349.99 shipped right now.

Now do you guys recommend buying the shock boot covers or are they really not needed.

So for now Im gonna replace the compression rod arms
All four shocks
and the right rear wheel bearing and hub which should have been replaced when I curbed
the right rear wheel and bent the rear arms and the bearing should have been replaced then but for
some reason the repair shop felt like they didn't need to so now Im stuck fixing it.

Corvett z07

Car feels like it's doing this?

vagel72

iTrader: (1)

Yes Corvettz07 but at 3-4000 rpm shifts it feels like she's being redline drag raced lol

They are original OEM shocks with 89,800 miles so I definitely got my use out
of them. I was told my front left was gonna need to be replaced 2+ yrs ago
so by now Im sure it and another one have finally bit the dust.

Feels scary driving fast have to shift at 2-2500 so i dont bounce too much because
when she dips forward she dips more to the left and then pulls right