Notices
Brakes & Suspension 350Z stoppers, coils, shocks/dampers

At a loss... brake pedal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-16-2016, 12:52 PM
  #1  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default At a loss... brake pedal

Did some research online here, so I apologize if this has been covered before..

Got a 350Z 08 Nismo about 2 months ago... upgraded tires to R888 and brake pads to Carbotech Xp12 on the stock Brembo calipers. I did add goodridge steel braided brake lines and stoptech brake fluid STR-660 with the disclamer... For Racing Applications. DOT 4 automotive brake fluid Dry Boiling Point: 622°F Wet Boiling Point: 404°F Min. Wet Boiling Point: 383°F

All done at a dealer..

Regardless, on a 45 degree and blustery track day yesterday, I lost all brake pedal feel after about 6-7 laps.. I mean pedal to the floor. It was very strong for those 1st few laps.. Shenedoah circuit at summit is a brake heavy track

side note, did also notice some coolant leak? no correlation i believe?
Old 05-16-2016, 01:06 PM
  #2  
rancor
New Member
 
rancor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Iowa
Posts: 521
Received 73 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

Boiled your brake fluid ?
Old 05-16-2016, 01:13 PM
  #3  
MicVelo
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
 
MicVelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Northern California
Posts: 10,023
Received 3,253 Likes on 2,314 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ShahulX
Did some research online here, so I apologize if this has been covered before..

Got a 350Z 08 Nismo about 2 months ago... upgraded tires to R888 and brake pads to Carbotech Xp12 on the stock Brembo calipers. I did add goodridge steel braided brake lines and stoptech brake fluid STR-660 with the disclamer... For Racing Applications. DOT 4 automotive brake fluid Dry Boiling Point: 622°F Wet Boiling Point: 404°F Min. Wet Boiling Point: 383°F

All done at a dealer..

Regardless, on a 45 degree and blustery track day yesterday, I lost all brake pedal feel after about 6-7 laps.. I mean pedal to the floor. It was very strong for those 1st few laps.. Shenedoah circuit at summit is a brake heavy track

side note, did also notice some coolant leak? no correlation i believe?
Are you asking a question of just passing along the experience?

Dropped pedal is a relatively common problem on Z's, particularly the HRs using internal concentric slave (CSC). There can be a variety of reasons, one of which is the culprit with higher probability: air gaps in the hydraulic system.

Re-bleeding - recommend using a power bleeder like the Motiv - usually clears this up. If not, then there's a good chance the slave cylinder is bad. This isn't unusual if your CSC has never been upgraded. If that turns out to be the case, don't bother with a Nissan OEM CSC, go straight for the Z-Speed Performance HD CSC. Should clear that up for good.

Second possibility: bad pedal actuator connecting the stock clutch pedal to the clutch master. Remedy there is making sure it's connected properly, properly adjusted OR aftermarket clutch pedal (RJM) to replace stock pedal.

Good luck!
Old 05-16-2016, 02:03 PM
  #4  
travlee
Master
iTrader: (8)
 
travlee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 48,596
Received 9,044 Likes on 6,510 Posts
Default

Mic.... he is talking brake pedal, not clutch
Old 05-16-2016, 03:01 PM
  #5  
turboed350z
Registered User
 
turboed350z's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: arizona
Posts: 2,892
Received 277 Likes on 215 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by travlee
Mic.... he is talking brake pedal, not clutch
Just be glad mic didnt say "op your brake pedals are acting up because you didnt attend driving school." Lol
The following users liked this post:
travlee (05-16-2016)
Old 05-16-2016, 04:10 PM
  #6  
MicVelo
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
 
MicVelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Northern California
Posts: 10,023
Received 3,253 Likes on 2,314 Posts
Default

Whuuuuuuups....

Hmmmm, maybe I'd best demand a refund from that online Evaelyn Wuudhead sped reddin' course I took.

Oh well, OP, now you'll know what it is when the clutch pedal sticks.

But, I'm only half wrong as symptoms still seem to be hydraulic in nature.
Old 05-16-2016, 04:18 PM
  #7  
Tochigi_236
New Member
 
Tochigi_236's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: U.S. of A.
Posts: 200
Received 28 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Check your pm.
Old 05-17-2016, 02:36 AM
  #8  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rancor
Boiled your brake fluid ?
That's what I was wondering.. I've never used stop tech fluid.. I usually use motul rbf600 in past cars (Boxster spyder , Gtr, exige, evos) .. But this looked fine by specs and stop tech is a well known company) . Im wondering if maybe someone had issues with that fluid, similar situation with the stock brembos?

I did drive home after I was there for an hour.. After cooling off there was brake pressure so I could drive the hour and half home... Think it was the fluid?
Old 05-17-2016, 07:43 AM
  #9  
rancor
New Member
 
rancor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Iowa
Posts: 521
Received 73 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ShahulX
That's what I was wondering.. I've never used stop tech fluid.. I usually use motul rbf600 in past cars (Boxster spyder , Gtr, exige, evos) .. But this looked fine by specs and stop tech is a well known company) . Im wondering if maybe someone had issues with that fluid, similar situation with the stock brembos?

I did drive home after I was there for an hour.. After cooling off there was brake pressure so I could drive the hour and half home... Think it was the fluid?
I have never boiled my brake fluid and also dont have the brembos so no first hand experience. It seems like the simplest answer but some more experienced drivers that track the Z might be more help.

If the pedal didn't feel as hard as it originally did after cooling off I would still think its air in the system. I wonder if the dealer didn't fully flush the system and you still had some old fluid in the calipers.
Old 05-17-2016, 03:21 PM
  #10  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rancor
I have never boiled my brake fluid and also dont have the brembos so no first hand experience. It seems like the simplest answer but some more experienced drivers that track the Z might be more help.

If the pedal didn't feel as hard as it originally did after cooling off I would still think its air in the system. I wonder if the dealer didn't fully flush the system and you still had some old fluid in the calipers.
that would be unfortunate.. i guess im buying some new fluid and trying again...see what happens now

rotors are the only thing i didnt do... thoughts??
Old 05-17-2016, 03:27 PM
  #11  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

while im no mechanic... i kinda know about cars,in a rudimentary way... but the coolant shouldnt have an issue right? im hoping that was just overflow
Old 05-17-2016, 04:37 PM
  #12  
dkmura
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (64)
 
dkmura's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 8,355
Received 1,290 Likes on 894 Posts
Default

One item not mentioned is pad transfer and proper bed-in with new brake pads. With heavy braking on a cold day, the proper film may not have formed on the surface of the used rotors.
Old 05-18-2016, 02:47 AM
  #13  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dkmura
One item not mentioned is pad transfer and proper bed-in with new brake pads. With heavy braking on a cold day, the proper film may not have formed on the surface of the used rotors.
I did bed them in a few days prior using the instructions given by carbotech... Although it may not have been perfect and on stock pre used rotors, may not have been ideal.. Im not sure that would affect the brake pedal to the floor situation... It does affect the initial bite and overall braking capabilities, but not sure it correlated to the pedal loss pressure. Maybe I'm wrong... Was debating rotors... Best for heavy track use for the 350z brembos?
Old 05-18-2016, 12:22 PM
  #14  
Blurvision
New Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Blurvision's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tuxedo, NY
Posts: 659
Received 102 Likes on 70 Posts
Default

You have air in the system or the master has failed. No fluid leaks I would assume? Your brake setup you described should work just fine, Shenandoah inst that hard on brakes.
The following users liked this post:
ShahulX (05-18-2016)
Old 05-18-2016, 03:44 PM
  #15  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Blurvision
You have air in the system or the master has failed. No fluid leaks I would assume? Your brake setup you described should work just fine, Shenandoah inst that hard on brakes.
kinda what i figured.. but your decisive response helps confirm my suspicions. I'll get the fluid redone and check the brake master cyl. ty
Old 05-19-2016, 04:27 AM
  #16  
Blurvision
New Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Blurvision's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tuxedo, NY
Posts: 659
Received 102 Likes on 70 Posts
Default

Just to add, a master cyl can fail internally leaking air into the system but not leaking fluid. They are pretty cheap to replace, might be worth some preventative maintenance.
The following users liked this post:
ShahulX (05-19-2016)
Old 05-19-2016, 07:55 AM
  #17  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Blurvision
Just to add, a master cyl can fail internally leaking air into the system but not leaking fluid. They are pretty cheap to replace, might be worth some preventative maintenance.
Ok, hopefully wasnt gonna cost an arm and leg... i'm taking to a nissan shop this time, just in case

Thank you again!
Old 06-01-2016, 07:47 AM
  #18  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ShahulX
Ok, hopefully wasnt gonna cost an arm and leg... i'm taking to a nissan shop this time, just in case

Thank you again!
OK so the Nissan dealer is telling me there was too much brake fluid? And that's why the pedal was going to the floor on the track after it heated up? Is that possible? Doesn't sound right
Old 06-02-2016, 10:28 AM
  #19  
rancor
New Member
 
rancor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Iowa
Posts: 521
Received 73 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

That doesn't sound right. Maybe overfilling could damage the master cylinder but it would be cheaper to try bleeding first.
The following users liked this post:
ShahulX (06-15-2016)
Old 06-15-2016, 05:57 AM
  #20  
ShahulX
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
ShahulX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 33
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rancor
That doesn't sound right. Maybe overfilling could damage the master cylinder but it would be cheaper to try bleeding first.
Man.. I dont know what to do at this point.


Quick Reply: At a loss... brake pedal



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:26 AM.