At a loss... brake pedal
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
At a loss... brake pedal
Did some research online here, so I apologize if this has been covered before..
Got a 350Z 08 Nismo about 2 months ago... upgraded tires to R888 and brake pads to Carbotech Xp12 on the stock Brembo calipers. I did add goodridge steel braided brake lines and stoptech brake fluid STR-660 with the disclamer... For Racing Applications. DOT 4 automotive brake fluid Dry Boiling Point: 622°F Wet Boiling Point: 404°F Min. Wet Boiling Point: 383°F
All done at a dealer..
Regardless, on a 45 degree and blustery track day yesterday, I lost all brake pedal feel after about 6-7 laps.. I mean pedal to the floor. It was very strong for those 1st few laps.. Shenedoah circuit at summit is a brake heavy track
side note, did also notice some coolant leak? no correlation i believe?
Got a 350Z 08 Nismo about 2 months ago... upgraded tires to R888 and brake pads to Carbotech Xp12 on the stock Brembo calipers. I did add goodridge steel braided brake lines and stoptech brake fluid STR-660 with the disclamer... For Racing Applications. DOT 4 automotive brake fluid Dry Boiling Point: 622°F Wet Boiling Point: 404°F Min. Wet Boiling Point: 383°F
All done at a dealer..
Regardless, on a 45 degree and blustery track day yesterday, I lost all brake pedal feel after about 6-7 laps.. I mean pedal to the floor. It was very strong for those 1st few laps.. Shenedoah circuit at summit is a brake heavy track
side note, did also notice some coolant leak? no correlation i believe?
#3
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Did some research online here, so I apologize if this has been covered before..
Got a 350Z 08 Nismo about 2 months ago... upgraded tires to R888 and brake pads to Carbotech Xp12 on the stock Brembo calipers. I did add goodridge steel braided brake lines and stoptech brake fluid STR-660 with the disclamer... For Racing Applications. DOT 4 automotive brake fluid Dry Boiling Point: 622°F Wet Boiling Point: 404°F Min. Wet Boiling Point: 383°F
All done at a dealer..
Regardless, on a 45 degree and blustery track day yesterday, I lost all brake pedal feel after about 6-7 laps.. I mean pedal to the floor. It was very strong for those 1st few laps.. Shenedoah circuit at summit is a brake heavy track
side note, did also notice some coolant leak? no correlation i believe?
Got a 350Z 08 Nismo about 2 months ago... upgraded tires to R888 and brake pads to Carbotech Xp12 on the stock Brembo calipers. I did add goodridge steel braided brake lines and stoptech brake fluid STR-660 with the disclamer... For Racing Applications. DOT 4 automotive brake fluid Dry Boiling Point: 622°F Wet Boiling Point: 404°F Min. Wet Boiling Point: 383°F
All done at a dealer..
Regardless, on a 45 degree and blustery track day yesterday, I lost all brake pedal feel after about 6-7 laps.. I mean pedal to the floor. It was very strong for those 1st few laps.. Shenedoah circuit at summit is a brake heavy track
side note, did also notice some coolant leak? no correlation i believe?
Dropped pedal is a relatively common problem on Z's, particularly the HRs using internal concentric slave (CSC). There can be a variety of reasons, one of which is the culprit with higher probability: air gaps in the hydraulic system.
Re-bleeding - recommend using a power bleeder like the Motiv - usually clears this up. If not, then there's a good chance the slave cylinder is bad. This isn't unusual if your CSC has never been upgraded. If that turns out to be the case, don't bother with a Nissan OEM CSC, go straight for the Z-Speed Performance HD CSC. Should clear that up for good.
Second possibility: bad pedal actuator connecting the stock clutch pedal to the clutch master. Remedy there is making sure it's connected properly, properly adjusted OR aftermarket clutch pedal (RJM) to replace stock pedal.
Good luck!
#6
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Whuuuuuuups....
Hmmmm, maybe I'd best demand a refund from that online Evaelyn Wuudhead sped reddin' course I took.
Oh well, OP, now you'll know what it is when the clutch pedal sticks.
But, I'm only half wrong as symptoms still seem to be hydraulic in nature.
Hmmmm, maybe I'd best demand a refund from that online Evaelyn Wuudhead sped reddin' course I took.
Oh well, OP, now you'll know what it is when the clutch pedal sticks.
But, I'm only half wrong as symptoms still seem to be hydraulic in nature.
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#8
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Thread Starter
That's what I was wondering.. I've never used stop tech fluid.. I usually use motul rbf600 in past cars (Boxster spyder , Gtr, exige, evos) .. But this looked fine by specs and stop tech is a well known company) . Im wondering if maybe someone had issues with that fluid, similar situation with the stock brembos?
I did drive home after I was there for an hour.. After cooling off there was brake pressure so I could drive the hour and half home... Think it was the fluid?
I did drive home after I was there for an hour.. After cooling off there was brake pressure so I could drive the hour and half home... Think it was the fluid?
#9
That's what I was wondering.. I've never used stop tech fluid.. I usually use motul rbf600 in past cars (Boxster spyder , Gtr, exige, evos) .. But this looked fine by specs and stop tech is a well known company) . Im wondering if maybe someone had issues with that fluid, similar situation with the stock brembos?
I did drive home after I was there for an hour.. After cooling off there was brake pressure so I could drive the hour and half home... Think it was the fluid?
I did drive home after I was there for an hour.. After cooling off there was brake pressure so I could drive the hour and half home... Think it was the fluid?
If the pedal didn't feel as hard as it originally did after cooling off I would still think its air in the system. I wonder if the dealer didn't fully flush the system and you still had some old fluid in the calipers.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have never boiled my brake fluid and also dont have the brembos so no first hand experience. It seems like the simplest answer but some more experienced drivers that track the Z might be more help.
If the pedal didn't feel as hard as it originally did after cooling off I would still think its air in the system. I wonder if the dealer didn't fully flush the system and you still had some old fluid in the calipers.
If the pedal didn't feel as hard as it originally did after cooling off I would still think its air in the system. I wonder if the dealer didn't fully flush the system and you still had some old fluid in the calipers.
rotors are the only thing i didnt do... thoughts??
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
while im no mechanic... i kinda know about cars,in a rudimentary way... but the coolant shouldnt have an issue right? im hoping that was just overflow
#12
General & DIY Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
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One item not mentioned is pad transfer and proper bed-in with new brake pads. With heavy braking on a cold day, the proper film may not have formed on the surface of the used rotors.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did bed them in a few days prior using the instructions given by carbotech... Although it may not have been perfect and on stock pre used rotors, may not have been ideal.. Im not sure that would affect the brake pedal to the floor situation... It does affect the initial bite and overall braking capabilities, but not sure it correlated to the pedal loss pressure. Maybe I'm wrong... Was debating rotors... Best for heavy track use for the 350z brembos?
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ShahulX (05-18-2016)
#15
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Thread Starter
kinda what i figured.. but your decisive response helps confirm my suspicions. I'll get the fluid redone and check the brake master cyl. ty
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ShahulX (05-19-2016)
#17
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Thank you again!
#18
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Thread Starter
OK so the Nissan dealer is telling me there was too much brake fluid? And that's why the pedal was going to the floor on the track after it heated up? Is that possible? Doesn't sound right
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ShahulX (06-15-2016)
#20
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