Q: Brembo Caliper Swap/Motive Bleeder
03-01-2017, 07:12 PM
#1
Q: Brembo Caliper Swap/Motive Bleeder
I just recently purchased a fairly decent set of OeM Brembos for a fairly decent price. 
I'm currently in the process of rebuilding them, just waiting for the TYP 200 to get here(I've used rbf 600 in my Max and it was great, just wanted to try something new).
When I attempt the swap, I want to minimize the loss of brake fluid from the hardlines so the new SS lines will already be attached to the Brembos when I switch the calipers.
Should I manually pedal bleed each caliper the best I can after I switch them to make it easier w/Motive bleeder or just swap all 4 then go straight to the Motive bleeder in order from RR to FL?
I also have two jack stands which is a no bueno so in this situation, would it be ideal to swap the rears then use the Motive bleeder on them, depressurize, swap the fronts, re pressurize and motive bleed the fronts? Or just get two more jack stands? I did this in my Max when changing the lines, at the time I had to manually pedal bleed them. I want to do it right with the bleeder this time after all, this is an actual sports car I am dealing with that I will be tracking.
I'm currently in the process of rebuilding them, just waiting for the TYP 200 to get here(I've used rbf 600 in my Max and it was great, just wanted to try something new). When I attempt the swap, I want to minimize the loss of brake fluid from the hardlines so the new SS lines will already be attached to the Brembos when I switch the calipers.
Should I manually pedal bleed each caliper the best I can after I switch them to make it easier w/Motive bleeder or just swap all 4 then go straight to the Motive bleeder in order from RR to FL?
I also have two jack stands which is a no bueno so in this situation, would it be ideal to swap the rears then use the Motive bleeder on them, depressurize, swap the fronts, re pressurize and motive bleed the fronts? Or just get two more jack stands? I did this in my Max when changing the lines, at the time I had to manually pedal bleed them. I want to do it right with the bleeder this time after all, this is an actual sports car I am dealing with that I will be tracking.
03-02-2017, 07:45 AM
#2
New Member
When I did my Akebonos swap I just did them one at time, working my way around the car. It just takes more fluid since you are filling the calipers from zero (dry) vs a normal bleed (air or old fluid flush). And yes I used the Motive device, that just makes it much easier/faster.
03-02-2017, 08:08 AM
#3
When you remove the OEM flex lines, immediately put a rubber cap over the fitting on the chassis hard line - this will result in almost no fluid loss in the system. The OEM rubber bleeder caps work just fine, and if you're working your way around the car, as I did, you only need one. I don't think it matters which order you do them in, as long as you keep the system filled, so watch the reservoir. It took me maybe 15 minutes to bleed with the Motive bleeder, and I used less than a liter of fluid, with a full flush until it ran clear and free of air. If the calipers are fully dry, you can gently tap them with a rubber mallet to help get the bubbles out.