Haragon12

I'm looking to lower my car for aggressive fitment with stretch tires, of course I'm going to have the fenders rolled and pulled, how low should I go to get that aggressive look ? Where fenders line up with lip of wheel. Let me know thanks.

jdmfetish

iTrader: (3)

many subjective answers are applicable

Spike100

As jdmfetish points out, your question is very subjective. We need a lot more information to answer your question:

1. What is your budget for this project?
2. How much camber are you willing to go with?
3. Are you willing to replace suspension components to allow for more adjustment (drop and camber)?
4. What size wheels are you planning to install?
5. What size tires are you going to mount?
6. Are you willing to accept handling compromises?

Haragon12

1) budget is 6k
2) camber rear -5 but for the front is where I'm having trouble whether to camber it or not because of wheels I'm going to be putting on also putting a spacer 30mm rear and for the front I'm deciding if it would need the spacer ?
3) I'm not to sure what you mean by that if u can explain a little more, I figured by replacing suspension everything would be replaced either way ? Correct me if I'm wrong
4) 19x11 -18 all around
5)245/35 all around I'm going to stretch tires, would that be possible ?
6) yes

dcains

iTrader: (15)

There is so much wrong here it just isn't even worth discussing.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Haragon12

Well then help me out man.. I could use some help

MicVelo

OK, here goes.... (and it's a long one folks, you're warned!)

First off, As a moderator (and a human being in general), it is not my place to judge or tell anyone their mods are wrong or f'd up or anything; so don't take this as such. I'm not into that "scene" (Stance, slammed, cambered, etc.) To illustrate that point, read this first:

https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...l#post10868304

With that aside, let's take a look at your "build desire" specs:

Serious questions:

- Where are you getting these specs and why do you think it's a good thing?

- What's your ultimate goal for the car? Show? Hard running canyon carver? Street/Track (and what percentage, 80/20? 95/5?) You really have to answer this before you even lay a hand on the car, let alone take out a credit card.

I ask these questions because the specs you put out there make little sense other than for a show car that's likely not driven much. Let's look at some of the specs and what they mean "real world"...

"19x11 -18 with a 30mm spacer"?

Means you're going to run an 11 wide, -48mm effective offset.

When you run the numbers you'll see that that's going to stick 109mm outboard from stock size tires, right? Well, NO amount of sane camber is going to get those donuts under stock fenders even with full roll and pull.

Those are wide body numbers.

Not to mention that your wheel bearings are going to be on a weekly replacement schedule.

The Z33 suspension is competent as is or with minor tweaking. However, if it
its stance you want, I suggest you study the thread I referenced above AND read all the threads associated with stretch and camber such as:

https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...s-welcome.html

There's specs throughout that thread and many others. You'll see that even the most radically cambered Zs aren't anywhere near -5deg. And I dare to venture that anyone who is that far out there doesn't drive their car fast... or shouldn't anyhow.

And I need to make this specific observation...

You stated "...the front is where I'm having trouble whether to camber it or not"

Let me put it gently.... Your car is going to run (if at all) so poorly with rear camber so far out there and if you don't adjust the front to "match" (good luck) the rear, I'd be surprised if your car could even pull into the designated parking/show space for your vehicle.


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And you're thinking that you want to run a 30mm spacer on the rear and you're wondering if you need any spacing on the front? Well, no, if you like a car that looks like a frog. Wide on the back, relatively tucked at the front.

I don't like spacers. There, I said it. BUT... I use them on a couple of my wheel sets to get the car set right. Not for appearance but for maximizing the scrub radius:steering response ratio. That is, handling. And by personal decree, will not run anything greater than a 15mm because I want to keep my wheel bearings intact, at the expense of looks. Nothing worse than pulling a g out of an off-camber switchback or dropoff and have the damm thing crumble or seize. No thanks.

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-5 camber. If you're building a garage queen, might be kinda awesome LOOKING because that's about as far as that car is going to be worth driving. Honestly, tipping a tire/wheel assembly that far on its edge then expecting the car to flatten to neutral camber in a fast turn is JUST. NOT. SAFE. See above comments.

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And finally.... a 245 on an 11" wheel. Sure, it can be done. (There's a lot of people on here - see the thread above - that run this type of combination and smaller even.) But safely? IMO, anyone who mounts that for you needs to have their mechanic's license revoked.

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OK, so if you're not deterred and want to go that route, I suggest the following:

1. Get the wheels/tires you want and fit them to the car. This will show you just how much more cambering down you're going to need. On that, you'll need specific camber/toe gear that will allow you to go down to the -3, -4 deg that you'll likely need to clear the tires. BUT, do not buy this gear until you've completed #2... === >

2. Lower to your desired height. Be it static (shocks/springs in natural configuration - strut front/independent coil-shock rear), true coilover (for height adjustability and if you want/need, compression/rebound control) or air suspension (which really is the most practical for your stance needs (air down) while giving you the ability to raise the car to actually drive it.

Doing this will actually put your camber naturally out of factory spec (likely into the -2 to -2.5 deg range; so you've got that much going for you on your tire fit (see next).

3. Now fit your alignment gear. Careful that you don't buy the "ordinary" camber correction gear like SPC, SPL, etc. without first seeing how much camber it allows. Most of the popular set ups are installed for the purpose of CORRECTING camber back up to nominal range after lowering, NOT to camber down more. The range on this type of gear is NOT going to get you down to the numbers you need.

Suffice to say that you'll definitely need a shop that gets this type of setup to do your "alignments". (I honestly have NO CLUE on what "alignment" specs one would apply to a car in this state of "tune".) You're on your own to find one because 95% of the shops that do alignments won't touch a car with those types of "alignment specs".

And this is about where I'll leave off because I really don't know much more about building a stanced car beyond these basic points.

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NOTE: There are those that will tell you that the steps above are in the wrong order. Arguable. I happen to come from the school of thought that the most important aspect of your car's handling is the TIRES and therefore you get the tires fitted first and suspension tune around them.

But if you're not planning on track or aggressive hill running, this might indeed be the "wrong order" and therefore moot. I don't know, honestly, I build & tune like a race team does, not a show team.

BOTTOM LINE: Do with your car as you please but do the RESEARCH FIRST and there's plenty of research materials on this site that will steer you in the right direction - unlike your car fitted to your initially posted specs.

rizeld

iTrader: (2)

the answer is 3.14159265359