Originally Posted by JMII

If you are going to do track days you'll be bleeding the brakes often so having the right tool helps. I've done a quick top off when switching pads by using the standard pump-the-pedal method but the pressure bleeder is so easy. Just make sure you have enough fluid so it doesn't run dry. On the street the difference between various pads isn't very noticeable (other then dust or noise) but on the track it will make a major difference, especially after multiple sessions.

Just be sure to check pad thickness and fluid level before each track day. Once the pads are 1/2 worn they are pretty much done on the track, but would be OK for street use down to 1/4 thickness. Now if at any time on track the brakes feel soft, funny or just "odd" head back to the garage. The problem with brakes is they tend to work perfectly fine... until they don't work at all. I blew a rear seal on the stock calipers once on track thankfully after pumping like mad the other 3 brakes held enough that I made the turn and was able to limp back in.

Originally Posted by the rook

I'm probably only going to track a handful of times per season..... or so I say.

Originally Posted by JMII

Track time should come with a warning as its that addictive I went from doing it occasionally to being an instructor.

My EBC Blues only last about 3 events, but I also daily on them. My brother gets about 6 events out of Raybestos ST43 on a modified Golf R (APR Stage 2) but he doesn't daily the R.

BTW don't set your parking / ebrake after a session. Use wheel chocks to keep the car from rolling while its cooling off between sessions.

Originally Posted by dkmura

Since this has become somewhat a track day advisory, I should add a word of caution on using race pads after the track day. On one occasion, I left Hawk Blues on after a race and drove home (two states) without changing them. Just a bit of friction from those pads was enough to literally wear down those fresh rotors to their wear limits in a weekend. Fortunately, this was on a '95 200SX Se-R and the rotors were not nearly as expensive as a Z. Even so, I learned my lesson, change those pads out and reburnish the rotors for the drive home.

Originally Posted by the rook

I'm bone stock motor wise, so I'd like to think I can run good rotors and high temp fluid for a few track sessions. If I struggle then I'll upgrade pads this summer.