Nissan 350Z Discussion forums, Photo Gallery and more...

Go Back   MY350Z.COM Forums > Do It Yourself Guides > Brakes & Suspension (DIY)

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-21-2008, 04:32 AM   #1
SGP Racing
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: www.BoostedImports.com
Posts: 7,980
iTrader: (17)
Thumbs up How to Bed-in Your Brakes

Sticky??? I think a lot of people forget about this process.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm


How to Bed-in Your Brakes
- by Dave Zeckhausen

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, your brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed your pads and rotors, or even if you've purchased a brand new car, you should set aside some time to bed the brakes in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors. For more on the theory of bedding, please refer to this excellent article by StopTech: Removing the Mystery from Brake Pad Bed-In.

Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in almost no braking power. Gently apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

When following these instructions, avoid doing it around other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. An officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

1. From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps

2. Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. With some less aggressive street pads, you may need fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.

3. The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.

4. After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot

5. If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph

6. After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

7. After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
__________________
Tuned by SGP Racing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown
all car forums should just merge into one giant orgy of idiots.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2008, 05:36 PM   #2
MY350Z.COM Sponsor
 
dspiel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 3,134
iTrader: (20)
great write up, thanks.
__________________
M1 Autosport
M1 Autobody www.m1autobody.com
11668 Ramona Blvd. El Monte, CA 91732
dspiel is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2008, 05:44 PM   #3
Booost
 
mikez97's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Palm City
Posts: 1,144
iTrader: (11)
__________________
2k7 Carbon Silver 6MT495whp@10.5lbs
VQ35HR HKS TT DD -All Thanks To Performance Factory-

Team Anti-DNF
mikez97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2008, 06:09 PM   #4
SGP Racing
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: www.BoostedImports.com
Posts: 7,980
iTrader: (17)
Quote:
Originally Posted by dspiel
great write up, thanks.
I didn't write this up. As mentioned this was found on www.zeckhausen.com and wrote by Dave Zeckhausen.
__________________
Tuned by SGP Racing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown
all car forums should just merge into one giant orgy of idiots.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2008, 09:52 PM   #5
MY350Z.COM Sponsor
 
dspiel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Santa Monica, CA
Posts: 3,134
iTrader: (20)
great copy and paste!
__________________
M1 Autosport
M1 Autobody www.m1autobody.com
11668 Ramona Blvd. El Monte, CA 91732
dspiel is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2008, 10:04 PM   #6
Registered User
 
roast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Okay, see?
Posts: 3,893
iTrader: (2)
Some manufacturers have slightly different bed in procedures... but it's all basically the same and I would agree that's a pretty good default.

Quote:
Originally Posted by http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq%26a.html
9. Bedding in EBC pads
In Street use situations …
Bedding in when the red EBC surface coating (marked on the pads as Brake In) is applied.
Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.
Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.
A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realised. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

Bedding in for trackday or race use …
We remind you there is NO WARRANTY on any EBC product for race use due to the very varying conditions that can be seen. However, care bedding pads in and monitoring wear will get the best from our products.
Most EBC pads including Yellow range pads now have the brake in coating. If possible and using a street based car, fit the pads before the race use and bed in as above for street use. Try to get 200-300 miles urban driving on the pads before racing them. If this is NOT possible and you fit at the track bed like this.
Drive two laps steadily applying the brakes every few seconds and then coast for a full lap without any unnecessary braking to allow pads and rotors to cool down. Drive a third lap applying the brakes slightly harder each time and again drive a cooldown lap. Do NOT pull up and park the car with the brakes red hot, try to let them cool as much as possible before coming to a rest. It is also important to understand that the pads must be geometrically matched to the rotor (flat and parallel) before they will bed in chemically. If you do the above bed in and get violent fade first use you MUST repeat the bedding procedure. We get lots of new customers calling in saying my brakes have faded and when they send a digital the pad is only touching on 70-80% of its surface area. Fade early in a pads life is almost a good thing. It is called GREEN fade and will disappear so if you suffer Green fade (you will notice this by smell), you are on the right path and this is not a negative. If you are getting fade after 20 laps and the pads are part worn, then something else needs looking into such as material choice, bleeding of the system, driving style etc …
__________________
I got a chevy with a mopar cam, I'll be your jonny on the spot!
roast is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2008, 03:44 PM   #7
mw9
Registered User
 
mw9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: cincinnati
Posts: 974
iTrader: (15)
Quote:
Originally Posted by roast
Some manufacturers have slightly different bed in procedures... but it's all basically the same and I would agree that's a pretty good default.

Just what I needed, just bought EBC red pads, THanks
__________________
KJR pulley, motordyne 5/16 spacer, rogue short shifter, all amsoil fluids, JWT popcharger, 350evo sways, AAM ypipe, helix tps, UTEC, Tokico HP blue, Tein S
mw9 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2008, 12:07 AM   #8
SGP Racing
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: www.BoostedImports.com
Posts: 7,980
iTrader: (17)
Thanks for sharing the info on the EBC pads Roast.
__________________
Tuned by SGP Racing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown
all car forums should just merge into one giant orgy of idiots.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2008, 05:48 AM   #9
Registered User
 
Le Zed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: aspen hill
Posts: 177
iTrader: (0)
excellent post!!! thanx
__________________
Le Zed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2008, 12:29 PM   #10
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: DFW
Posts: 976
iTrader: (3)
How can you tell when ABS is kicking in? I'm pressing on it pretty hard, hard enough I am not sure. After about the 8th time I did it, I started to smell it slightly, and cruised for a few minutes, went home and checked it I notice a hint of grey, but not any blue tint. I will probably go for a second bedding since they're new pads on old rotors.
quakerroatmeal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2008, 02:05 PM   #11
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 26,739
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by quakerroatmeal
How can you tell when ABS is kicking in? I'm pressing on it pretty hard, hard enough I am not sure. After about the 8th time I did it, I started to smell it slightly, and cruised for a few minutes, went home and checked it I notice a hint of grey, but not any blue tint. I will probably go for a second bedding since they're new pads on old rotors.
ABS feels like a jack hammer to the front brakes. You have to hit the brakes hard. I recommend that you practice in an isolated area. When you feel confident I also recommend trying ABS in the rain. Nothing like practising emergencies before emergencies.
__________________
350Z 2004 Enthusiast: K&N Typhoon Air Intake - Motordyne Plenum Spacer - Alphawerks Stainless Steel Headers - Helix SS Test Pipes - Injen Super SES Cat-Back Exhaust System - 6 Pad Puck Ceramic Clutch and Forged Steel Flywheel by Competition Clutch - WedsSport SA-70
davidv is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2008, 02:08 PM   #12
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 26,739
iTrader: (0)
Did I miss something? Bedding the rear brakes?
__________________
350Z 2004 Enthusiast: K&N Typhoon Air Intake - Motordyne Plenum Spacer - Alphawerks Stainless Steel Headers - Helix SS Test Pipes - Injen Super SES Cat-Back Exhaust System - 6 Pad Puck Ceramic Clutch and Forged Steel Flywheel by Competition Clutch - WedsSport SA-70
davidv is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:58 PM.


Advertise on MY350Z.COM - Terms of Service - Privacy Policy - Jobs


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0
Copyright ©2002 - 2008, MY350Z.COM All Rights Reserved.