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i don't know if it would get rid of wheel hop cause its not stopping any movement that is actually happening. It is preventing the stress that is already there from ripping the rear mount bolt, or either ear, from their mounts.
Hop will be more controlled by suspension and/or tire setup. I can tell you on my 18in BFG dr's this weekend I got no hop whatso ever....no traction either though due to track prep lol
tom
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04 G35c Sound Performance TT..Did I just make 650rwhp on pure pump? Yes I did!
i don't know if it would get rid of wheel hop cause its not stopping any movement that is actually happening. It is preventing the stress that is already there from ripping the rear mount bolt, or either ear, from their mounts.
Hop will be more controlled by suspension and/or tire setup. I can tell you on my 18in BFG dr's this weekend I got no hop whatso ever....no traction either though due to track prep lol
tom
I saw the brace when you posted it in that thread so thanks for bringing it to our attention. I can remember seeing an aluminum bushing that replaces the single silicone filled one that supports our rear diffs. This required a lot of work to install since you had to remove the rear diff and press out the rubber one to install. The overall cost to have this done was about $200 for the part and $500+ for labor but I was told this was the best way to eliminate wheel hop so I was considering it. When I saw the one from Sound Performance I was excited because not only is it a better design but it can be installed very easily. I can see how this is a great way to add support and strength but I'm not putting down a lot of power or using slicks. My problem only happens when I am at the drag strip and happened when my car was stock. When I tried to launch I had violent wheel hop on my street tires. I haven't been back since for fear that I will break something now having FI. Now I was always under the impression that wheel hop is the tires gripping then as the rubber rear control arm bushings compress, the angle of the tires turn inward causing them to slip then causing the tires to straighten out and re-grip again and so on. This makes total sense to me and I think that putting better rear control arm bushings would solve the problem but like I said I have been told that the culprit is the rear diff bushing. Now I agree with you thom000001 putting drag radials on would most likely help because they grip even when the angle of the rear tires tilts inward while street tires have less of a threshold for grip and are more prone to wheel hop. So from all of the experience that you guys have in drag racing what is the best way to eliminate wheel hop if you are going with street tires? ( I also agree with you thom000001 on the suspension / bushing upgrades that you suggested so sorry if I am being redundant). I have purchased some 275/40/18 Dunlop street tires that are wider and have better grip than my current 245/45/18 with all season Toyos and plan to put those on but that may not be enough. I may just do the Sound Performance bracket just because I hate the way my diff sags and tilts but would replacing the control arm bushings help too? Also just to let you know, I get no wheel hop on the street and my only conclusion is that the threshold of grip is less and therefore not enough to compress the control arm bushings to cause the inward tilt enough. Sorry for the long message but I have to do something before I go to the track so what would be the best steps to take?
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Stock Block DE Vortech 418RWHP 355RWTQ
Last edited by 350Z400rwhp; 08-11-2009 at 10:19 PM.
Jesus use paragraphs I couldnt even read that post!
When are you exdperiencing wheel hop? What type of launch, what pressures?
Only at the 1/4 mile track where the traction is really good (I have seen your launches Alberto and plenty of others at the track and you guys experience no hop at all). 4-5000 rpm drop, I believe I was 25 or so psi on street tires with a 300 tread wear so not that great of a tire. On the street I experience no wheel hop at all. Just seems to happen at the track only. I haven't been there since I was stock though but I don't see how having more power will stop it.
In conclusion, I thought I would add this extra sentence to make a paragraph for you Alberto!
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Stock Block DE Vortech 418RWHP 355RWTQ
Dont drop the clutch, you should always slip it even if quickly!! Not only to avoid wheel hop but to save the drivetrain the abuse.
Street tires and boosted Z's is a waste of time get some slicks, the bias play softwalls make the launches smoother absorbing the launch. You will also have a tendency to wheel hop on DR's if you dont change your launch technique.
Have you tried launching at the track on street tires and normal street pressures?
Dont drop the clutch, you should always slip it even if quickly!! Not only to avoid wheel hop but to save the drivetrain the abuse.
Street tires and boosted Z's is a waste of time get some slicks, the bias play softwalls make the launches smoother absorbing the launch. You will also have a tendency to wheel hop on DR's if you dont change your launch technique.
Have you tried launching at the track on street tires and normal street pressures?
It has been some time but I think it still had wheel hop at normal street pressure and then I reduced it. I may have to step up to DR's from what it sounds like. I just hate to invest $400+ on tires for something I rarely do. I had an RX-7 T back in the day that launched so well at the track with street tires it's just a shame my Z is prone to this wheel hop.
Bottom line I guess since I spent 10+K to boost my Z I should cough up the cash for DR's....I know....I know....I know....Just wanted to see if there was a way around it.
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Stock Block DE Vortech 418RWHP 355RWTQ
FWIW, bias ply tires are not the same as Drag 'radials' and Alberto made the specific distinction. Try to get bias ply slicks if you can if you really want to reduce your hop
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VQ38DETT with SFR Twin 6262 on ProEFI128 Corn Fed
Does the Sound Performance Rear Diff Brace reduce wheel hop?
