Factory axle strength-drag racing
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Factory axle strength-drag racing
Cannot find a concrete answer... im thinking about putting drag radials on the z to cut down my 2.2 60ft time...worried about axle's snapping...or what axle would you recommend?
#4
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iTrader: (23)
I have stock axles. 1.60 60ft. 11.245@127.42, 540whp 436wtq, on full slicks, but I did try a set of drag radials before. I'm also very easy on my car.
Anybody can brake an axle, drag radials are very hard on axles with a 6 speed. Drag Radials work best for automatics.
You would be better off with an ET Street Bias Tire.
Anybody can brake an axle, drag radials are very hard on axles with a 6 speed. Drag Radials work best for automatics.
You would be better off with an ET Street Bias Tire.
Last edited by OldManZ350; 05-17-2014 at 02:56 PM.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have stock axles. 1.60 60ft. 11.245@127.42, 540whp 436wtq, on full slicks, but I did try a set of drag radials before. I'm also very easy on my car.
Anybody can brake an axle, drag radials are very hard on axles with a 6 speed. Drag Radials work best for automatics.
You would be better off with an ET Street Bias Tire.
Anybody can brake an axle, drag radials are very hard on axles with a 6 speed. Drag Radials work best for automatics.
You would be better off with an ET Street Bias Tire.
So stock axle's last by chance only?
#6
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What I've learned from a lot of other car platforms is that drag radials or slicks can increase the life of half shafts, because drag tires reduce wheel hop which is what usually breaks half shafts.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
well I only spin to clean off my tires (no wheel hop) everyonce in a while it i wheel hops if I break it loose in second down the track...but I do agree with that fact that wheel hop breaks them
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#8
I ran 10.0@138 on stock Ebay refurbished axles...I was making over 700hp with 1.50 60fts. I broke the Driveshaft shop 1000hp axles clean in half at 550hp and they refused to warranty them..(customer service is non existent in the import world but that is another topic.)
The key is stop the WHEEL HOP..If you get wheel hop your gonna break them in 2 or 3 passes.. simple as that.. I used all solid rear bushings with full slicks and never broke another axle, and was running refurbished stock ones...
The key is stop the WHEEL HOP..If you get wheel hop your gonna break them in 2 or 3 passes.. simple as that.. I used all solid rear bushings with full slicks and never broke another axle, and was running refurbished stock ones...
#9
Actually its not so much the tires as the suspension that causes the wheel hop. And you are more likely to snap an axle on a DR or slick than sock street tire. The street tire is just gonna light up and spin, where the slick or DR is gonna try and get traction and start hopping.. Once your suspension is dialed in, the wheel hop will be eliminated. I ran an adjustable coil over in the rear, raised up a little bit, with a firm dampening rate,solid rear bushings and adjustable camber arms.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
guess I should take a break on drag racing, save up for a quaife lsd, solid diff bushings and et street drag tires... cause either way the diff needs dropped to do the diff bushings...
Last edited by Toneloc; 05-18-2014 at 12:30 PM.
#11
Dont do a Quaife LSD for the love of god, dont...I ran one for about 3-4 weeks, it couldnt hold up to the abuse and burnt up...All my fastest times were on a stock LSD and Stock axles believe it or not. If you must do a LSD, do the Nismo its more clunky but held up on our other car for over 2 years till the car got wrapped around a pole.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Dont do a Quaife LSD for the love of god, dont...I ran one for about 3-4 weeks, it couldnt hold up to the abuse and burnt up...All my fastest times were on a stock LSD and Stock axles believe it or not. If you must do a LSD, do the Nismo its more clunky but held up on our other car for over 2 years till the car got wrapped around a pole.
Last edited by Toneloc; 05-18-2014 at 05:10 PM.
#13
I burnt it up in the 550Hp range, same HP I snapped the 1000hp drive shaft shop axles. I was only running low 11's at the time. If you have to have an LSD go Nismo.
#17
Then dont waste the money on an LSD. If you have a stock LSD already in your Z, dont waste the money on an aftermarket one, you will most likely never need it or notice that you need it. Put the $1000 elsewhere...In fact spending it on hookers and cocaine would probably be a better investment... My stock LSD was what I put back in after the aftermarket one went bad, and I ran low 10's all day and night with it..
Last edited by Dajersyrat; 05-19-2014 at 04:39 AM.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
im trying to snab a pumpkin with 4.08 gear, with spl solid bushings and either stock vlsd or aftermarket... and sell my bone stock pumpkin which is open diff....
thanks for the input guys...im still on the fence on to go cheap and get vlsd or go aftermarket...guess I will do more research in this library of madness
thanks for the input guys...im still on the fence on to go cheap and get vlsd or go aftermarket...guess I will do more research in this library of madness
#19
im trying to snab a pumpkin with 4.08 gear, with spl solid bushings and either stock vlsd or aftermarket... and sell my bone stock pumpkin which is open diff....
thanks for the input guys...im still on the fence on to go cheap and get vlsd or go aftermarket...guess I will do more research in this library of madness
thanks for the input guys...im still on the fence on to go cheap and get vlsd or go aftermarket...guess I will do more research in this library of madness