Less weight = more power; Have you lightened your Z? - Page 5 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 04-29-2004, 12:47 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by jng1226
You've already got several options to go against M3's, Corvettes, etc.:

Vortech, ATI, PE, Greddy and several more coming. By 2006 you will probably be out of factory warranty (or close to it). Instead of taking the depreciation hit trading your "old" Z in on the latest greatest, take the money that you would put into the new car (or less) and put it into a proven FI solution.

Vortechs and Greddy TTs are regularly putting out 350-380 rwhp, more if you do intake and exhaust mods. I doubt that whatever the factory FI VQ35 Nissan puts out eventually, the 1st Gen won't do that for less than $45K.
We'll see. I just somehow don't feel comfortable stressing my engine with aftermarket solution. ESPECIALLY if warranty is out. I know it's not that big chance of problems, but they do occur. And it would be nice to have factory solution. I'd even like n/a engine with 350 hp more than FI.

BTW, I'm not worried about M3 that much. My friend just got brand new M3 so I took it for a good speen on parking lot... Helped him to brush the tires, all for free. Nice car, no arguing there but it wasn't faster than my Z. Even if there is a difference in acceleration, it's very negligable. We didn't do drag race yet, since he still learning to launch the car. And in corners extra 200 lbs of weight is defenetely showing!
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Old 04-29-2004, 12:55 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by jng1226
You've already got several options to go against M3's, Corvettes, etc.:

Vortech, ATI, PE, Greddy and several more coming.
Any chance of clutched FI? I mean where I can switch FI off and bypass it using switch in the cabin? I know such a solutions exist, but not sure if any mass producing FI companies use them?

It's very simple idea where Fi pulley is attached using magnet clutch, so it can be detached from the engine and stopped. At the same moment special valve switches from fi otput to bypass.

Idea is to save gas and engine... With gas prices ricing at such a rate, it worries me a little.
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:20 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vlad

BTW, I'm not worried about M3 that much. My friend just got brand new M3 so I took it for a good speen on parking lot... Helped him to brush the tires, all for free. Nice car, no arguing there but it wasn't faster than my Z. Even if there is a difference in acceleration, it's very negligable. We didn't do drag race yet, since he still learning to launch the car. And in corners extra 200 lbs of weight is defenetely showing!
Vlad - The E46 M3 is much faster than a 350Z. You probably wouldn't know it from tooling around on a parking lot, but believe me it's a ton faster (especially above 80mph). Talking acceleration here, obviously.

Also, and not to pick on you too much, but a "hutch" is where rabbits live. A "hatch" is what is on the back of a hatchback.
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Old 04-29-2004, 01:28 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jason Bourne
Vlad - The E46 M3 is much faster than a 350Z. You probably wouldn't know it from tooling around on a parking lot, but believe me it's a ton faster (especially above 80mph). Talking acceleration here, obviously.

Also, and not to pick on you too much, but a "hutch" is where rabbits live. A "hatch" is what is on the back of a hatchback.
Are they all E46 this year? We did get to about a 110 fulling around on a highway... but not a straight race... We'll get to it when he accustomed to the car and stickshift.

I have a rabbit living in my yard. So my yard is a hutch?
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Old 04-29-2004, 02:30 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vlad
Any chance of clutched FI? I mean where I can switch FI off and bypass it using switch in the cabin? I know such a solutions exist, but not sure if any mass producing FI companies use them?

It's very simple idea where Fi pulley is attached using magnet clutch, so it can be detached from the engine and stopped. At the same moment special valve switches from fi otput to bypass.

Idea is to save gas and engine... With gas prices ricing at such a rate, it worries me a little.
That's pretty cool, reminds me of the original Road Warrior movie.

I recall reading in the FI forum about SC owners that said it was OK to remove the SC belt for long drives to reduce wear/save gas. I don't think that the SC systems boost until around 4K, so you probably don't suffer too much. Of course TTs only boost when you get in the gas, so they're probably the best combination of power and fuel efficiency.

I think I already read about someone with a Stillen SC getting around 20mpg in the city and 22 on the highway. I get about 22 now and 25+ on the highway with just an exhaust.
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:27 AM   #86
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Just installed my new battery. Old one is 35.5 lbs. Frikin huge and heavy. PC545 is 11.5 together with parts. So that's 24 lbs lighter for $90 (battery, shipping, installation parts). about $3.75/pound.

I'll post installation pictures on weekend. I need to visit Home Depot to get something to replace my temporary wooden block on top of battery...

I know you'll say it's sycological... but car is defenetely better handling and accelerating. Removing 24 pounds buket of water from front compartment helps!
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:30 AM   #87
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Where did you get the battery from?
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:34 AM   #88
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http://www.gotbatteries.com/Productp...ctNum=37L141S5

They ship next day.
Don't forget accessory brass posts.
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:19 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vlad
Just installed my new battery. Old one is 35.5 lbs. Frikin huge and heavy. PC545 is 11.5 together with parts. So that's 24 lbs lighter for $90 (battery, shipping, installation parts). about $3.75/pound.

I'll post installation pictures on weekend. I need to visit Home Depot to get something to replace my temporary wooden block on top of battery...

I know you'll say it's sycological... but car is defenetely better handling and accelerating. Removing 24 pounds buket of water from front compartment helps!
Vlad, I've been looking and I think I'm going to keep the stock posts and tie-down, but use a die to cut threads far enough down for the PC545. That way it will still be clamped similarly to the stock one.

Of course, it goes without saying that you should put the battery as far inboard as possible before clamping down (makes less polar moment!)
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Old 05-02-2004, 06:19 AM   #90
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And one more for you Vlad, the metal plate behind the driver's seat that the factory sub attaches to weighs 3.5 lb. I don't know if that's what you have listed as "resonator" on your recipe, or is that the resonator box from the engine bay?
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Old 05-03-2004, 06:38 AM   #91
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By resonator I meant central piece on exhaust pipte. Just replaced it with straight pipe.

Here is the link to battery installation thread:
http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.p...242#post821242
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Old 05-03-2004, 06:41 AM   #92
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Originally posted by UsafaRice
Vlad, I've been looking and I think I'm going to keep the stock posts and tie-down, but use a die to cut threads far enough down for the PC545. That way it will still be clamped similarly to the stock one.

I kept the stock posts but had to make some new parts instead of using tie-down (top piece, right?). Installation is totally reversable though.

Of course, it goes without saying that you should put the battery as far inboard as possible before clamping down (makes less polar moment!)

There is really only one place where both wires (very short) can reach terminals. That's middle of most-forward position.
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Old 05-03-2004, 06:43 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by UsafaRice
And one more for you Vlad, the metal plate behind the driver's seat that the factory sub attaches to weighs 3.5 lb. I don't know if that's what you have listed as "resonator" on your recipe, or is that the resonator box from the engine bay?
Can that metal plate be removed? Replaced? What the purpose of it?
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Old 05-03-2004, 07:28 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vlad
Can that metal plate be removed? Replaced? What the purpose of it?
If you pop out the plastic panel behind the driver's seat (mirror of the glove box on the other side) it's right there. It has like 10-15 bolts holding it in so all you have to do is yank those. I did it while I had the interior taken apart. So I don't remember if you can access everything with the panels still in.

The plate is the mounting point for the stock sub in the Touring model with the Bose audio setup.

Anyway, if you do pull the interior, then you can yank those 2 crappy speakers in the back as well. I replaced them, but I think the replacements are going to come back out this summer.

On another note, taking 200 to 300 lbs out of the car will raise the ride height a little. This probably changes the roll center as well. (to higher, which is worse...)

Has anyone weighed a stock lug nut as compared to one of the 5Zigen, Nismo, or Ray's ones?

Last edited by UsafaRice; 05-03-2004 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 05-05-2004, 10:19 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally posted by UsafaRice
Trunk gate is how Japanese people talk about the hatch.

You can get one with just overlays and all you're doing is paying for the look. The one that costs 220,000 yen is fully made out of carbon fiber. It has the attachment points for the stock stuff, but is a layer of fiber on the outside and another on the inside. There's no way that it is including glass in that weight as the part at the bottom says you can still use the stock glass, wiper, and struts (well at least the page in Japanese does).

And while some of the stuff on the page is for show, their hood is the lightest one I could find from the Japanese manufacturers.

how about Amuse's dry carbon door , hood and hatch?
does the weight saving differs a lot?
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:10 AM   #96
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Door will save a lot, if properly made... but door is a structural safety feature. Since I don't have a full cage (or anything else) I'm not replacing the door, even if I had money. Mirrors and window motors are another thing though
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:11 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vlad
Door will save a lot, if properly made... but door is a structural safety feature. Since I don't have a full cage (or anything else) I'm not replacing the door, even if I had money. Mirrors and window motors are another thing though
how much weight saving am i l looking at for a carbon mirros?
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:17 AM   #98
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It's difficult to measure... I have a mirror but I don't have precise scales. Subjectifly assembly weights 6+ lbs. And that's all high lbs. With good cf mirror you'll save most of that weight, I'd imagine. x2
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:18 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally posted by UsafaRice
If you pop out the plastic panel behind the driver's seat (mirror of the glove box on the other side) it's right there. It has like 10-15 bolts holding it in so all you have to do is yank those. I did it while I had the interior taken apart. So I don't remember if you can access everything with the panels still in.

The plate is the mounting point for the stock sub in the Touring model with the Bose audio setup.
would this plate b in my base model?
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:18 AM   #100
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BJ said headlights weight about 20lbs each... true?
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