jelledge

I have been following all of the threads about the grounding kits and want to install one myself as a DIY kit.

I understand the theory behind why it can work - by reducing noise in the electrical components and providing better grounding paths for the various electronics, etc.

However, I don't understand why everyone is using such large gauge wire...like 4awg wire. If the purpose is to reduce noise and provide better grounding for multiple electronic components I would think you would simply need gold plated or at least copper connectors and some very good quality 10-14awg copper wire used for power amplifiers or even some silver plated copper wire.
I would think that this gauge of wire would be more then sufficient to provide the low resistance grounding paths. Using 4awg wire seems like complete overkill? We aren't flowing 30-40 amps of current through these wires, rather we are reducing noise and providing a cleaner signal to the computer system????

Can anyone enlighten me here?

thanks,
Jason

Alang

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking the same thing, but I believe that 4 guage wire is what Nismo and others use in their kits. I am the first to admit that Nismo knows more about automotive systems than I do, and if they used 4 guage, then there is probably a reason. Its not really a cost issue since you can get all you need for about 30 bucks, so why not use it.

MustGoFastR

iTrader: (13)

Besides, who wants little pu$$y wire running through their big manly engine. 4 gauge just looks cool, man.

I just ordered one of Skidazzle's sets made of 4 gauge Monster Cable for $97 shipped. Comes with all hardware and instructions and uses same lengths as $200 Nismo kit. Can't beat it.

Fëanor

For the record, I remain unconvinced that any ecu instrument is anywhere near sensitive enough to benefit from the conductive difference of a few cables over the surface area of the engine itself.

However, should I be proven wrong (which happens more often than I'm comfortable admitting), the cables used for this kind of purpose should stress surface area over diameter. This means braided cable coated with a good conductor - copper, silver, gold, etc.

articfury

Dyno numbers have been posted showing an improvement after the installation of Grounding Kit (Sun Automotive, IIRC)

JD

z461

OUCH... my stereo shop had that made and installed for me for 100 bucks, and that's using Monster Cable as well, everything w/ gold soldered connectors...

insaneamine

iTrader: (1)

Hey people,

I am still offering to build these custom kits for $75 plus shipping.

Check out my construction:

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=11450

Kit includes everything you need:

4 gauge high purity and insulated copper wire, gold plated connects, heat shrink, bolts, washers, instructions!

email me: insaneamine@***.net

jelledge

Thanks for everyone's input. After doing some more reading I am decided to use some copper (tin coated) ground strapping that can easily duplicate the 4awg wire without the bulk size of it.
The ground strapping is really nice quality and specifically designed for this kind of duty (high current carrying ability, corrosion and heat resistant, and very low resistance).

I was afraid also that using a standard power wire that over time the sheath protecting the wire would melt from engine heat and then cause the copper to corrode. The tin coated ground strapping seems to resolve this issue really well and it is cheap!

Jason

insaneamine

iTrader: (1)

Most of the quality "monster" cables out there are specially insulated to withstand temperatures up to 105 C and harsh chemicals like battery acid and motor oil. Check the specs first.

stx

The bigger the wire the less resistance. Electrical Current always travels the path of least resistance. Not saying if you had at 10 gauge and 2 gauge wire connected in parallel it wouldn't travel on the 10 gauge. It would actually travel down both, but the majority of the current would be on the larger wire. Amps = voltage/resistance.

Vlad

I think it's because nobody cares about what it do (if it do anything, which I doubt). Everybody cares about the look. And possibility to "mod" without spending much.

Alang

iTrader: (1)

One of my initial nits about the Z was its buzzyness at higher RPMs. Its not bad, but its not silky smooth either.

I too doubted that the grounding kit would make a difference, but when people started talking about how it smoothed out the upper RPMs, I got interested. After seeing VQs DIY, the mod was now cheap to do and my curiosity got the best of me. I fab'd up a kit and installed it. There is a very noticable improvement in the smoothness of the motor at higher RPMs. I didn't notice any feelings of more power (and wasn't expecting any), but the performance of the motor above 4K feels less buzzy.

As far as wanting the "look", I specifically chose black wire, and hid as much of it as possible under existing hoses/wires. Unless you look real hard and know what you are looking for, you won't see it.

My point here is that your comments are way too generalized and overly harsh for someone that has no experiance with this mod.

jelledge

Vlad your cynicism was a little harsh. We've got people posting reports of dyno proven numbers and several independent people on this forum who have done the mod and say it did make a difference on the Z.

Don't knock until you try it......
Peace

z461

Don't listen to Vlad, he's always like that

insaneamine

iTrader: (1)

I am a scientist at heart; things need to be proven to me. I didn’t think the grounding kit would make a difference either.

After researching a bit and because I like to play. I decided to make the kit myself. Cheap enough, easy enough!

I immediately noticed the smoother revs over 3500. Gas mileage hasn’t really been an issue. I always drive hard. However, my trip computer tells me 18.7 mpg average. I have just over 2200 miles.

Zoro

OHMs law.

I just couldn't RESIST it