High Clutch? want to lower your clutch engagement point? - Page 2 - MY350Z.COM Forums



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Old 06-20-2005, 05:00 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badfish25
yeah I did this as soon as i saw this thread, I had to turn counter clockwise as well. (05 z) Clutch engages much nicer now. I Only turned it about 1 time counter clockwise and I couldn't even get it to go anymore.
really? did you use your fingers or a plyer? i could turn mine by fingers until it stopped. then i used some plyers with grip, and it turned more.
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Old 06-20-2005, 07:25 AM   #22
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i did this mod last night, it was kinda easy, but now my dash lights wont come on unless i turn the headlights off. either i knocked something loose or blew a fuse hitting it or something.
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Old 06-20-2005, 07:42 AM   #23
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Nice write up. Gonna try this tonight.
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Old 06-20-2005, 10:30 AM   #24
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I did this adjustment yesterday and noticed a few things. First man i didnt realize how tight of a space you have to work, i was cursing out loud a few times trying to get a good grip on the bolts. I tried a few different settings, one with like 4 turns, which felt pretty nice having the engagement very close to the floor. But what i didnt like was the farther you adjust the pedal down from stock, the more the pedal would seem to stick as you let off the clutch. Basically meaning the 1" or so of free play wouldnt pop back smoothly to a fully disengaged position like the stock setting. This had me worried that the clutch wasnt fully disengaging after i released the clutch fully. I have mine set right now at about 1 1/2 turns lower from stock. Thoughts?
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoc
i just tried this... it works great except your instructs says CLOCKWISE. when i turned it 3 times clockwise, the clutch friction point moved higher so i ended up with a really high big-rig truck action. i had to turn mine COUNTER CLOCKWISE to get my clutch engagement point lower.
I guess it depends on what position was your position. I laid down on my back facing the clutch, it that case I had to tun it clocwise =)
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:50 PM   #26
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like i said before, if you think the clutch doesnt disengage after you modify it, the car should move or stall when the clutch is in and it is on gear. if it doesnt stall or move, that means you have a complete disengagement.

and one more time, this mod changes clutches travellenig distance. it doesnt change anything in the actual clutch assembly. therefore it will not shorten your clutch abrasion time. clutch abrasion time completely depends on how you drive your car =) you should be okay after driving it for a week

Last edited by Tantrum; 06-20-2005 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:03 PM   #27
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Thanks fir the info Tantrum. I can't wait to do this. I'm very tall so I'm sure I'll be loving it.
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Old 06-21-2005, 12:51 PM   #28
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OMG I had no idea you could do this. I asked a Nissan dealer about this and why my clutch engadges so far from the floor and if they could adjust it and they said no, F THEM, I have messed with my seat back and forth for months now to get a smooth ride out of my car cause of this, but anyway thank you all the people who posted this thread and took the pics. My car is so much better now.
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Old 06-21-2005, 03:23 PM   #29
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tantrum, i really hope you are right. there was a really hot debate about this on fresh alloy. regardless, as i said before, this adjustment is great. i just hope this doesnt end up costing me a lot in the future.
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Old 06-21-2005, 04:38 PM   #30
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no Alang35, believe me, if you look into the architecture of the clutch, there is no way this mod will cause future problems.

MyV6IsFaster, I did the samething. I asked nissan, even a few shops. they all said no. I seriously started thinking about getting a different car just because of the clutch's height. Anyways, I made the modification in my friends shop. he has been doing performance mods for years. after he looked at what I was doing, he said this is a great mod and he doesnt think there will anything wrong with it.
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Old 06-24-2005, 06:14 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tantrum
...the car should move or stall when the clutch is in and it is on gear. if it doesnt stall or move, that means you have a complete disengagement...
Ok. I did the mod and it felt nice with the shorter clutch travel. Itís at full disengagement when I press the clutch, no stall in gear. However, how would I know if the clutch is at full engagement when I let out the clutch? Since we have shortened the release of the clutch, could it be possible that the clutch is not at its full engagement when fully released?

Getting a little paranoid here about how my throttle responses...

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Old 06-24-2005, 07:51 AM   #32
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how does your throttle response now?
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Old 06-24-2005, 08:05 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tantrum
how does your throttle response now?
Faster? Not as lumpy when you tap the gas in 2nd gear(I have Nismo clutch and flywheel.)...I kinda wanna say softer...its felt almost like Im feathering the clutch? But I canít say for sure, maybe its all in my head.

BTW, I have about 3 threads showing at the tip of the bolt. I cant see how many threads in the back(like the picture you shown) cuz my head is too big to be sticking in between the clutch and break pedal.

Last edited by Phatmitzu; 06-24-2005 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:32 PM   #34
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i guess you are worrying because you just did the mod. you are paying extra attention on the clutch now. it should feel different anyways, and faster throttle is also better. I dont know man! did it a week ago, am loving it, have had no problems so far. it is just a little harder to drive with long nosed pointy shoes =)
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:55 PM   #35
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Yeah maybe you are right, Im just being paranoid.

I do agree with you that the car drives much better after the mod. Expecially when shifting. Made my shifting much quicker without any extra effort. Goes with my B&M short shifter pretty well. Now that I can stop doing the "pressing the clutch midway" when power shifting.

Nice "15 mins DIY mod" IMO.
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Old 06-24-2005, 02:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narkotic
I performed this mod years ago when I first got my G. At first I had done it too much, I noticed that it was too difficult to get the car into 1st gear. I moved it back out a few turns and it's fine now. I probably did about 6 turns.

Also, don't forget. Your cruise control won't work if it is adjusted too low. You also need to adjust the cruise control switch in conjunction with adjusting the pedal. This is done in a familiar fashion. Unlock the nut, and turn the switch by hand. This will be kinda difficult w/ the wires still attached, but it is a ***** to detach that wire harness for some reason.
You turn the nut on the cruise control the same amount of times you turned it for the clutch pedal correct? And where exactly is the cruise control nut located?
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Old 06-24-2005, 03:40 PM   #37
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Look at the top of the pedal when it is out. There is a 14mm nut that holds a micro switch. The end of the switch, the plunger, engages when the pedal is out. Loosen the nut and turn the switch so the micro switch is fully engaged. Thats it. I just did it 5 minutes ago.
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Old 06-24-2005, 06:08 PM   #38
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I tried to loosen the 12mm bolt and ended up slightly stripping it with the bolt not moving an inch. So I just gave up before I made it worse. I hope this slightly stripped bolt doesn't cause probs in the future. :/
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Old 06-25-2005, 11:25 AM   #39
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Patience! Remember to remove the kick panel to the left and the dead pedal. Just pull straight up on the dead pedal. It is not screwed in. To get the kick panel out, pull up on the trim piece that start to run up the door jam to give yourself room to remove the kick panel. Carefully pry up the two friction retainers holding the front of the panel. There is one nut holding it in at the back of the footwell. You can easily see it. Now that you have a bit more room, you should be able to get the wrench on it. As someone noted in another post, jam a screwdriver between the fork and the pedal so the fork doesn/t twist so much. It is worth the effort.
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Old 06-25-2005, 02:29 PM   #40
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Alright tried this last night and failed because I removed the dead pedal and fuse box cover, but NOT the entire plastic piece......I couldn't get the wrench in the right position.

Today I went outside in 90 degree heat w/ hella humidity and succeeded! (Dispite the heat which caused me to sweat immensly and made it very tough to get a good grip on that already slippery rod.) I took the big plastic piece off this time and was JUST able to get the wrench on that damned locknut. Then I experimented...

I threaded that rod in as far as I dared go (any further and I thought I would't be able to grab ahold of it because it gets real tight in there, real fast when that clutch pedal starts moving closer to the floor!) So I threaded it in real far and took her for a spin...or so I thought. Whoops! The clutch pedal won't come back up = can't get her into gear.

So, I backed the rod out some and took her for a second spin....or so I thought again. The clutch pedal worked now and after shifting into first and then neutral...I couldn't get it into any gear...even 1st again.

So, I backed the rod out some more and took her for a spin (see the pattern yet This time I could get it in gear, and even switch gears. The pedal was real tight and movement was real short. The height of the pedal was like 0.5 inch (total estimate here) lower than the brake pedal. Engagement was instant! As soon as I touched the clutch, it engaged. I took it for a spin and it was a hoot! BUT...the pedal wouldn't return all the way to the top. It would come up about 3/4 the way and get stuck there. I would have to pull it up with my foot if I wanted to bring it to the top. It stopped at where the engagement was and wouldn't come to the top (through the free play point). This worried me because any pressure on the clutch causes premature wear (like people who "rest" there foot on the clutch instead of the dead pedal).

SO...I backed out the rod a tinsy bit more AND TOOK HER FOR A SPIN. This time the clutch pedal was maybe 0.25 inches (total estimate again) lower than the brake pedal. Now the clutch returned to the top, through the free play area, giving me back the free play, and giving me piece of mind that my clutch will not wear out.

So, the pedal is now 1/4 inches (est) lower than the brake pedal. When I first got in my car, inside the fork, there was 1-2 threads of that rod showing. After I was finished there were 4-5 threads of that rod showing. The clutch returns to the normal position (albeit a little lower than before) giving me the needed 1 inch of free play and ensuring there is no premature clutch wear.

My thoughts: When the clutch pedal was 0.5 inches lower, it was exactly where it should have been. If you want to race, put that baby there! Who cares about premature clutch wear....replace it for an aftermarket one! But, for me, I don't race. So, for my daily driver, my final adjustment point (4-5 threads showing) was pefect: Short enough to allow quick shifting, Long enough to ensure full clutch dis/engagement.
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