Halr

I have a 2005 35th Anv with 12,480 showing on the odo. However, I never got a second key with the car, so the dealer had to code one for me. While the car was there I had them do the TSB on the "clicking" sound in the half shafts and I mentioned this latest oil consumption TSB.

Service guy said there were no TSB's out on Oil Consumption! So, I showed him a printout of this lastest TSB and he finally found it. According to him, it isn't really completely released to all the dealers yet! He said Nissan has been slow to get these new TSB's out to dealers. At first he said he'd seen it before, but when I got him to go look for it, he realized it was a new one and he hadn't seen it yet.

Anyway, I had him check the oil level on my car. Together we checked the dip stick and I was happy to see that my oil level had barely moved since the 11,501 oil change they did as part of the used car certification. Does this mean my engine is one of the lucky ones that isn't consuming oil, or will it happen later with more miles??? I generally shift around 4000 rpm but occassionally run it to redline. Does aggressive driving cause the oil consumption to occur more frequently?
Hal

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

Ok, that is an issue that is just ridiculous.. this car is a Z (period).
wasn't born to be driven by a mommy at 25mph.. despite of speed limits in usa those car are sold also in germany and if you want to keep it on an autobahn at 155mph for 20min you could.. if you want to have some fun at the track, you can. (period)
you have to take care about the usual things, change the oil, warm up the engine and have a little cool down before stopping (also if it isn't turbo).

if you drive HARD... not spirited.. HARD you could expect an accelerated wear of suspension, brakes, differential... barely cluch and flywheel if you know how to use a shift and do a little of heel and toe.. but not an engine burning 1 qt of oil every even 5K miles... modern engines (at least in europe) has services interval of 10/15/20K miles... and between interval isn't normal to add oil if the engine has less than 100K miles.

if you don't break in the engine.. if you rev high with cold oil.. that's is another story. but 1500 miles, change oil and filter.. ad you are good to go... drive 5/10 minutes and all the components are warm enough to drive HARD.

Matteo

Halr

Mateo,
I hope you didn't think I was trying to justify this thread by saying you should "expect" high oil consumption if you drive in a spirited fashion!!!! I think this is a design flaw that Nissan is reluctantly having to deal with, and the only real solution appears to be changing out the long block. However, my question was only about if others have come to the conclusion that it seems the higher revs use more oil in this situation. If that's the case, and your trying to prove this to Nissan or Infinity, it would seem wise that between the 1000 mile dipstick measurements, it would be to your advantage to "drive the hell out of her" so that maximum oil usage would be obvious.

If one drives the Z conservatively, will it cause the oil consumption to be less and maybe not pass the "test" this TSB is measuring? Anyone have any actual input on this? If internal air pressures are causing some kind of valve blow by and that action is increased at higher revs, then we should know so we can make sure this TSB accurately measures our problem!
Hal

usmanasif

iTrader: (4)

Your turn to find out.

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Just what I thought. I verified with the master tech at Reagal Nissan that the hash mark between H & L represents (1) quart.

ZU L8R

iTrader: (84)

Just wanted to let you guys know I tried merging this thread into the new sticky I created. I want the TSB info in the first post so people don't have to search through 100+ pages to find it. Unfortuantely, it won't let me do it to where the post I made is the first post and then everything slides in under that. I'm gonna check with the admins to see if I'm missing something.

9kFever

iTrader: (9)

do you jsut want access to the first post on this threaD? I started this thread and can give you access so we can keep this database alive.

ZU L8R

iTrader: (84)

Alright, I did it another way. Everything should be good now.

9kFever

iTrader: (9)

Thanks a lot!

usmanasif

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Matt. Appreciate it.

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

No, I got your point. I feel just frustrated..because mine, according to the "dipstick rule" looks relatively good... but damn close to the "no good zone"... and using her for daily commute.
afaik if you drive using lower gears you can expect more oil consumption..
just natural.. you have more engine rev in 1000 miles.

my feeling is like having a cheater girlfriend... you can "patch it" but the relation is broke.. that's it.
but major problem is when you still like the cheater... and for what I read here.. looks that also some V2 engine still have problems, some really bad..
so.. I'm around 1qt every 5K miles... is in the good zone, but isn't in "my" good zone.
I'm just thinking about paying to extend the warranty to 100K/7years... and see what's going on.

Matteo

06CPV35

Much appreciated...thank you
I agree with you.
Only my Honda and VW's with well over 100K consume that amount of oil and my 7.3L diesel with almost 200K only uses ~1/2 qt per 5000, which I beat the crap out of for my work.
Extended warranty...good idea. Then if yours gets worse beyond standard warranty coverage, TSB will qualify you for replacement.
I have heard some G ppl's VQ go bad after fair amount of miles on their engine, this being their factory stock VQ. Some even non-revup's.

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

This one is a really good point.
from what I'm reading here (and that is also a reason why I'm "scared" about getting a V2) some V2 engine has problem worst of mine... at the end less than 1 qt for 5000K miles is BAD for what I'm used to.. but considering about 3K miles between services... isn't too bad, at least I'm never running in the "danger zone" for the engine.

I need this car to make sometimes 1200 miles commute.. and fill up oil in the middle is something that will **** me off.
Of course I can fly... but... again.. having a _sport_ car that can be used only to do daily commute and not driven to nice hill far from home or for whatever I want... GRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Matteo

06CPV35

I hear you on that. Sad when I have to go on business trips (yes I could fly too, but I like to drive my coupe) and carry a quart or two in my trunk.

9kFever is the only member I've heard with serious OC issues on the V2. Nothing but success with it over on Driver's OC threads, so idk what to say. It is disheartening to hear, as I'm sure 9k feels the same. Have heard some OC when new during break-in then all okay after and brand spanking new with only 5 qts puts level at 1/2 on stick from the get go. As said before...maybe his V2 his was built on a Monday. If and when I get this TSB, I'll accept a V2 in a heartbeat. If it's bad, then I'll take a V3 if that's ever produced or another V2. I'll take whatever they have, being what I have now has been a pain the you know what since Jan 2006.

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

Yes of course...if that will solve the problem is the only way to go..
I love too much my bi$%h... and thinking about heart surgery is a pain.
I'll see... the only bad thing I had next week the appointment to install headers, pulley, test pipes and reflash...
if I need a V2 I have to uninstall a good part of those stuff and reinstall later...

Matteo

ZeeForce

Catchup reponses below:

Pssst…make a friend at the dxxxxx..

First off, congrats on the arrival of your new motor, long overdue.

My OC on the V2 is at 10-12 mm with 2116 mi on current oil change (still the first). It’s still in the break in period, so we will have to see after a couple of more oil changes. I cannot wait for this to hit 4400 mile on the current oil change, therefore I can send the oil out to Dyson Labs for a used oil analysis. The results should indicate if the rings are still settling.

Thanks, it’s all for the community. It appears word has gotten out, there are a lot members checking this topic out. I am glad to hear from all, that the dealers are very receptive and actually nice and outgoing now there is TSB and $$ in their pockets. Go for the extended warranty; be kind to the dealer, because NNA will check with them on the decision approval or denial of the extended warranty.

I was thinking of posting the TSB post to the first page of this topic. Is it good enough as is? Or does it need tweaking? PM me if anyone has input on any edits to the post.

I am thinking the same; next V2 update Stats list will have measurements in mm instead of quart decimal system.

+1 on the paper ruler, I have saved it and printed it out. Now if I could only find a way to laminate it to the dipstick cross hatch marks.



I am thinking the same, if my V2 hits the “No Good” mark, as much I hate parting with the Interlagos Fire, I will push for a replacement 07 or 08 model. I still fall under the Lemon Law rules, therefore will not need a final repair notice. They had more than three repair attempts with several OC tests and a replacement engine. I am hoping not to but will.

Point here is to always be present when the dealer takes the reading. There are a lot shady ones out there, although I think their tune has changed since the release of the TSB. I would not be surprised if they fudge it in favor of a replacement engine. Warranty $$ in their pockets, especially since the economy has gone south, they too are hurting for customers. Folk just are just going to put a band aid or run it to the ground before they shell bucks for a repair. Not Z owners, talking about the everyday Joe’s.

Back to OC testing: Be present, if the dealer does not want to let it sit for at least 20 min, 30 minutes ideal before checking your dipstick, then this works in your benefit. Be very careful after they check and top it off, that you insist that it sit for 30 minutes, and then be there to check it. If it is over the top of the cross hatch mark, like anywhere on the “H” mark or higher, insist they pump out the excess from the dipstick spout to bring it right at the top of the cross hatch mark. This is your insurance that you are getting a good reading to start off with.

500-1200 miles, others have also said 4-8k miles. IMO - 4-8k
It also depends on when the rings seat. A Used Oil Analysis could tell if the rings have seated by the amount of Chromium in the oil.

Regarding newly installed V2’s and the oil being low right off the bat: (Below)

You nailed it.
+1 +1

Everyone jumping on the engine replacement should take note:

It is easy to forget with all the excitement of picking up the car right after the engine has been replaced. Do not forget to have the dealer let the car sit for 30 minutes and have them show you the dipstick reading. It will save a lot of frustration after the cool down of a new engine and you decide to check the oil after a couple of weeks to find it’s low. So check it before you leave the dealer.


Absolutely correct… Thanks for quoting my earlier post, I have been off line for the last 4 days.

The quart loss measurement is irrelevant now, Nissan is using mm readings on the dipstick. But keep it on the chart for those that still like to see quarts.

I do like the chart you created, could you send it to me so I can add it to the first page of this topic along with the TSB post?
I will PM you with my personal addy.

A couple of corrections, if you could please before you send it:

The “Oil Consumption Allowed” should probably read “Oil Consumption No Good Range” as the readings are for when the level reaches the no good range.
The first range of 0-501 miles = 2mm should read 0-500 miles.

Very well done!
-Curtis

gothchick

iTrader: (12)

Hi Curtis,

Certainly glad I could help! Corrections made, email sent~ :-)

Erin

06CPV35

I feel your pain...
I've held off on my major VQ mod plans, except for air intake/exhaust for almost 2 years b/c of this OC issue. No sense modding on engine, only then to take it all off for replacement. Good anaology...heart surgery...lolz. Then that brings another decision to the table. The best doctor (competent dealer) to do this surgery.
I have a few at my local dealer. Maybe I'll hit them up for an ETA and see what they say.
Though in the past, I usually know things before they do... or finally what they'll admit to
I hosted TSB pictures through photobucket on another forum so they're full size on post. Also now have TSB as a .pdf file. If you want, I'll send you .pdf if you want that for first post or page on here. Let me know

luvZcar

iTrader: (4)

cars home with the new engine 12/7/07happy at this time now to see if its a fix hoping it is, by the way talked with the rep from nna and they are trying not to give me the extended warranty ,about to put in a complaint with the BBB, this guy was a real jerk to me and it ticked me off ,they offered one month payment of my car because he said I was only without a car for that long,and as I expland to him I've been dealing with it longer then a year now and am on motor number three just was not happy with that so on goes the saga, fighting for the warranty

camaross

Greetings,
First post, been lurking for quite a while.
I have been in oil consumption test for some time. Today I went to the
dealer after checking my oil last night and finding it 15mm low (1700 miles since last service)
The advisor had the level checked and came up with 12mm low. He said a new long block will be ordered, per the 11-27 bulletin.

My saga started when I heard the valve train clattering shortly after my first service! No oil on the dipstick! It took 2 quarts. I broke the engine in carefully according to the guidelines in the manual. I presently have 14K on the odo.

Being an ex-mechanic, I greet this repair with some trepidation, sometimes the devil you know is easier to accept, but what the heck!

Will keep you all posted if anyone is interested as the saga continues.

06 6MT Touring Daytona Blue