jmark

iTrader: (1)

Will has your rating of the Castrol GTX 5W-30 changed at all? Pretty much used Castrol GTX all my life & plan to put it in my 07 Nismo Z.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

No, it is a great oil for the the uses that I stated in your quote. But, you'll have the HR engine in your Nismo Z, and that's a whole different animal. I can't say that what works well in the VQ35DE will work well in the HR. It's like comparing the UOA's from a Toyota V6 to the VQ- the bearings are different, journal diameters, oil flow and pump are all different. I'll have to wait until we get some HR engine UOA's to say for sure what's good and not. Sorry.
Will

RBlover69

iTrader: (2)

so to be safer should i try a thicker 10w30 . Florida heat with a thinner oil not sure if thats a recipe for optimum effieciency.

jmark

iTrader: (1)

How do I help with a UOA? I know Nissan doesn't require a 1200 mile oil change like mfg. did in the old days. I wonder what Nissan puts in the cars from the factory?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

The Amsoil 0W-30 was already thicker than most 10W-30's on the market. I would say M1 0W-40 is a good alternative, they were almost identical in weight, or just go with the new Amsoil. You would just be the first to use it, and a UOA would say for sure how it does. See te first page for info on how to get one done.
Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

See the first post, there are two links to oil analysis companies. Blackstone is the cheapest and most popular. Run your oil for 3k miles or whatever you like, and then when you drain it, just collect some in the little cup they send you. They also give you a container to mail the cup of used oil back to them in, and in a couple of dyas, they e-mail you the test results. It's $22.50 last I checked. But, being a new engine, I would say wait until 15k miles at the earliest to get a UOA done because the engine oil will show higher amounts of trace elements from break-in until then. The GTX should be fine, it won't damage anything. The whole point of this isn't to see what oils will kill your engine, any API oil will work and won't break anything, but a UOA collection will show just which oils happen to perform better.

Will

jmark

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Will.

RBlover69

iTrader: (2)

yea thanks will, seriosuly this is a great thread . One last thing i heard that mobile since there formula change actaully got rated lower then its counterparts. I will try the 0wsoil amsoil next change.

PhiSig

iTrader: (36)

Will -

With you being our very own resident Motor Oil Zen Master, what are you running currently in your Z?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I think the Amsoil 0W-30 is a great choice for your engine, but I recommend that you read the first page of this sticky. There are two posts on oil base stocks on the first page that hopefully will give you a better understanding of what makes a great oil. Base stock alone is not going to determine what is a great oil. There are way too many sales pitches that will try and fool the consumer into thinking otherwise.

If Mobil did change their base stock formulation, it makes ZERO difference as long as the oil performs. For what it's worth, the M1 0W-40 has a different MSDS than the other oil weights of Mobil 1. I think the 0W-40 is a PAO base stock, but only XOM knows for certain. Either way, the oil works well. So does Schaeffer's, and it's a hydroisomerized oil (see the post on base stocks on the first page to learn more on this type of oil), and is considered "less" or "worse" than Amsoil in terms of base stock. However, the Schaeffer's is THE BEST performing oil I've ever seen in the VQ35. There is more to what makes a great engine oil than base stocks. You made a good choice on oil, but please don't be swayed by rumors and marketing when it comes to choosing anything for your car. It would be akin to thinking a JWT pop charger isn't a good mod because you heard that a long tube CAI is the best.

If you can, please do a UOA on your oil when you decide to change it. That way we can all see how the newer TSO formulation stacks up.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I've been getting asked this a lot. I am currently running Rotella T-Syn 5W-40. I love this oil so far, and will have some data on it in about a month or so when I change it out. Then I will try something else and post a UOA on it as well. So, what I run in my own engine will change every five or six months or so as I continue to see what oils are working well with this engine.

Eventually, I will start to mod my engine and will just use whichever oil I think has done the best. But that might be a while as my Z budget keeps getting depleted in the name of house projects.

Will

Robert_K

iTrader: (25)

Will... Sel the house and live out of the Z. Your kids are young enough they can fit in the hatch. LOL J/K You're day will come and I'm sure you will build a badas$ machine.

Anyhow, Think I'm gonna switch to M1 when I come home. Suggest OEM weight or something else?

PhiSig

iTrader: (36)

Rotella? Thats the Shell Oil right? I haven't seen that in Wal-Mart or my local auto parts store yet. I use nothing but shell gas in my car, one would think their oil to be just as good.

Oh, and when I was in wal-mart today, I found the M1 0w-40 and it was Marked "European Formula"? Is the 0w-40 grade the standard for BMW's and Benz's?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but they grow up fast. No way I'll fit them in the Z hatch in a year from now, LOL!

The home projects just make more sense right now, so the Z will have to keep waiting. But my garage is going to be nice when it's finished- it will be great for some tech days.

I think the M1 0W-40 is about perfect for our climate. Unless you want to order your oil from a dealer brand like Schaeffer's or Amsoil, I wouldn't look at any other off-the-shelf oil right now.

Can't wait to see you when you're back in town, tell Ada I said hi and to give a call if you guys need anything. Really.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it's Shell's synthetic HDMO. Usually found with truck and diesel engine oils. It has done well in other engines, so I'm giving it a shot.

The M1 0W-40 is marked as a European Formula. It is standard in Porsche and Mercedes-Benz engines. I don't know if it comes in BMW engines, but it is one of the few that meet BMW LL-01 specs.

Will

Robert_K

iTrader: (25)

I'm sure they do. What is Schaeffer's oil? Never heard of it. Heard great things about Amsoil. I can order the oil, that's not a problem. Guess I need to go back through the tread and read everything.

I'm ready to get back in town!!! Red Robin, amoung other resturants, is calling my name!

Blu_Blur

iTrader: (1)

Resolute:

I just wanted to commend you on the information you provided us (as well as all the other people who have sent in other oil samples)

My Z is in the shop right now having my Turbonetics ST system re-installed and I am going to be changing to a different oil (from Royal Purple 10-w30 Full Synth) in light of your write-up. I have even gone to the extent of finding an AMSOIL dealer here in Los Angeles, CA and chatting it up with him. I was wondering if you could recommend an oil for me (whether I could buy it off the shelf or have it delivered) for my single turbo Z. Here are the 'criteria' and other vital info.

-2004 Z with 287 hp VQ35DE stock block / all stock internals.

-motor has 67,000 miles all used synthetic oil but around 40,000 I changed from M1 10w-30 synthetic to RP 10w-30 (hoping I didn't do anyting wrong to my engine)

-Live in Southern Cali, just south of L.A. Winter temps are usually around 60 F and summer temps 85-90 F

-Car is not a daily driver (have other car) and boost was only used on occasion (i.e. the car was driven normally / conservatively)

-When turbo is reinstalled, it will run conservative boost setting around 9 psi.

-I care much more about protecting the engine's vital parts so I would love to have an oil that has superior protection even if that means a reduction in gas mileage.

Would you be gracious enough to offer a sugestion? I know my question has probably already been touched-on but there is just so much info on that thread that I havent even scratched the surface. I just wanted to ask this question in the hopes of getting a direct answer to help clear the fog and give me a good idea of what I need to go get.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the kind words.

You are not going to do anything bad to your engine using either the Mobil1 10W-30 or the Royal Purple 10W-30. It's not a matter of some oils damaging your engine, it's a matter of some oils performing much better than those two for the same or less money.

Amsoil does make very good oil, nd you won't go wrong using one of their blends. I prefer the Series 2000 0W-30 (TSO is Amsoil's code for the oil) for NA applications. However, since you're in a warm climate and running boost, a heavier weight oil would be better for you. Since this is a stock block, I would recomend the following oils for you:

Mobil1 0W-40
Rotella T-Syn 5W-40 (UOA coming soon)

Either should treat your engine very well. If you want to buy from your Amsoil dealer, then I would recommend their 10W-40 (AMO code). Their 5W-40 "European Formula" will be just fine as well, but the specs on it are almost identical to the M1 0W-40 and I don't know if I would pay a premium for an oil that might not be any better than the less expensive M1, but it also looks like a good oil if you want to use it.

Will

singh

iTrader: (2)

I'm about to reach 3,000 miles on my 07. I'm gonna change my oil for the first time!!...which oil should I use??!!! I was thinking either Castrol Syntec 5w-30 or Mobul 1 5w-30...

Blu_Blur

iTrader: (1)

Will,

Thanks for the info.

I have 'heard' that M1 has recently changed its formula to the extent that it is no-longer considered fully synthetic. Is this true and do you still recommend it?