IronYuppie

iTrader: (4)

is there any problem at all with going synthetic? i just got my car and i was wondering? also sorry if this has been answered but what do you guys use for oil filters?
thanks alot

van46

i have ordered a greddyfilter also but k&n is also pretty good.

PS:WHO HAS ALREADY TRYED GR3 ON THEIR Z?i would be verry happy with some info

grtz

Biochem7

iTrader: (8)

Nothing wrong with multi-tasking I am leaning towards the M1 0w-40 when I'm supercharged. Hopefully somebody will already have a UOA by then.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

You'd be better off creating a new thread if you want people to see your question. This thread is for posting and analyzing people's used oil analysis sheets, not for asking who's used what oil. You're not going to get a lot of traffic looking at your question in this thread.

Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

will,

do you have any UOAs for any of the Torco oils?

BTW, how long does it take to get the UOA kit from balckstone? I ordered one about a week and a half ago.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

All the UOA's I've done, found, or received have been posted in the comparison charts. I have not seen a UOA using Torco oils in any engine. It's pretty rare stuff. It is a G5 oil base, but I don't know to what extent or what Esters they use. So far, the ester-based oils have not done too well. If you are using Torco, please share the UOA. It usually takes about two weeks for the first kit to arrive from BL. I have done so many, they just send me the kits in bulk now, and it seems to get here much faster than the first kit did. So, maybe the first kit just takes a while longer to get sent out, and after they have your information in the system it comes pretty quickly.

Will

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

thanks. I am using Motul 300v 5W40. I plan on sending in a sample. Hopefully, it is better than the 5w30 UOA on here. I have a stock block with a greddy TT

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

I forgot to ask if you have seen better results from using a straight 30W oil versus a 5W30 or 10w30?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

No.
In Florida, it might be hot enough where you live that the oil is already to it's hot viscosity when cold starting. But otherwise, you'll be hurting yourself not to use a multi-grade oil. There is a misconception that a multi-grade oil like 5W-30 is thinner when cold than when hot, since it is only a 5 weight oil. The fact is, oil thins out with heat. A 30 weight is too thick to pump quickly through an engine when it is cold, so the advent of an oil that is only a 5 weight allowed engines to receive better start-up lubrication. But the oil is only a 5 weight oil when cold, as in zero deg F. While it is thinner than a 30 weight oil would be at freezing temperatures, the 5 weight oil is still physically a thicker oil than the 30 weight is when hot. The multi-grade oils allow an oil to remain about the same viscosity despite extremes in temperature, where a straight weight oil would be too thick when cold to protect the engine well. By using a straight weight oil you lose the benefit of a multi-grade with no gain made in protection or performance.
Another misconception is that a straight weight oil is more durable and less prone to shearing. This is generally untrue. It depends on the oil, but a good synthetic will resist shearing from extreme heat and stress better than most single weight oils due to better chemistry involved. This has been proven many times in industrial and SAE white papers on the subject.
Will

redlude97

iTrader: (11)

Anything on Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30? I changed out my oil this weekend with this, thinking it was what was recommended, but when I saw the list again, it was the 10w-30 that was listed. Anything I should be too worried about? I went 4400k on the ASL 5w-30, burned ~1/2 quart

JasiJ

iTrader: (4)

Will, first off: Great write up! this community owes you a debt!
Now I have read through this entire post, and perhaps I missed it, but has anyone done a test of Royal Purple 10W40? I am currently FI (Single Turbo) and started using this at my last oil change. If no one has, I will send mine out for a test at the next change just so it is on record.
Let me know
Jason

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Well, I do have a UOA from PP 5W-30 in a VQ. It was really bad. Lead shot up to 40ppm with it, over several other oils used. Castrol Syntec before, and Valvoline after, iirc... and the results with each were good. I haven't posted it up because I thought it might be an anamoly. The user didn't want to try it again to find out, and I haven't seen any other UOA's with this oil in the VQ. So, maybe it was the oil since the other UOA's looked normal, but I can't say for sure. If you keep this in your engine, post your UOA if you get one done and we'll have a better picture of how well the 5W-30 performs.
Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

no one has submitted a UOA using RP 10W-40. If you do, please post it up, but seing that you are FI, it won't be included in the comparison chart. I might make one for stock-block FI engines, but tuning and boost are very different for each FI enigne I get a UOA from, it takes some of the control out of the findings.
Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

****First Page is updated in a Q&A style format, it should be easier to read. Please check it out before posting a question, asit's probably been answered. Comparison charts are updated with all the new UOA's posted*****

Will

03aeroZ

iTrader: (11)

so...we have determined that castrol syntec 5w-30 is still a good oil to use correct? so, CS vs M1 0w-40 for a daily driver nontrack for oil changes 5k ish....any advice? thanks for the reply to the PMs earlier.

also, i only have 3qts ofGC 0w-30....what would be ok to mix with that? the american castrol 0w-30 be ok? thanks again

turbo-maxima

Has anyone tried using diesel oils like Rotella T synthetic or Delo, or amsoil synthetic diesel oils.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I'm using the Rotella T-Syn right now to see how an HDMO does. Girgen used it in his built TT and the results weren't as good as M1 0W-40, so I suspect it might be a similar story in my stock block. I've been debating trying Mobil1's TDT 5W-40 (Delvac1), but am also looking to try one of the new Quaker blends as well. Not sure yet which route I'll go for my next change. I'll post the Rotella T-Syn results when I'm done with my OCI.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Either of those will give about the same results interms of a UOA. Both are good oils. Use whatever of the two you like. I think the M1 0W-40 is more robust for track use, but the CS 5W-30 is a really nice performing oil as well. You can mix either with the GC 0W-30, and I have not seen a UOA with the US 0W-30 to say if it's as good a performer as the 5W-30.

Will

Devil Z

iTrader: (6)

Resolute I sent you a PM, but you never responded.

Anyways all this info is a bit over my head but I have tried to read it, as far as I know M1 0W-40 is the best oil for Turbo Z's?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

As far as I'm concerned, Mobil1 0W-40 is one of the "best" off-the-shelf oils you can buy, and probably the only XOM product I've seen that might be worth the money. It did three track days in my car along along with a 3200 mile oil change interval through the winter time, and the results in the UOA look as good as the more expensive Amsoil TSO for the same mileage. So, yeah, I think it's a great performing oil that can be found locally for a decent price.
However, as posted in the Q&A on page two of this thread, there is no way to say what's the "best" for a FI engine. The types of FI mean the oil has different demands, the boost levels are different, some of the SC use a seperate oilo supply, some use engine oil, The tune can be vastly different among kits and tuners, etc.... too many variables that will affect the UOA results from one car to the next. I think if there were more FI guys doing UOA's, some oils might have average results better than some others, but it's tough to say. In a stock engine, there is a lot of control over the contributing factors from one UOA results to the next. The climate and driving style are not that big of a factor, since they really don't alter the actual environment the oil must operate in. The issues mentioned above alter the environment the oil must operate in, and those issues can change from kit to kit, tuner to tuner.
My suggestion is to try a good oil like the M1 0W-40, and see how that goes. Gurgen had pretty decent results with it in his engine considering the boost and build he's running. Fuel dilution is more pronounced if you're built, so that's the number one issue affecting the oil. If you're not built, then the extra heat placed on the oil from lubing the turbo center section is brutal, same for a SC that shares oil with the crankcase. If you're SC'd with seperate oil supply for your compressor, then the extra heat in the engine will still place extra demand on the oil. All this adds up to an oil that will benefit from being a thicker weight. Make sure whatever oil you use is NOT an ILSAC GF-4 approved oil. Look for an ACEA rating of A3 or C3. M1 0W-40 is a relatively thin 40wt oil, but meets those requirements. There are other 40wt oils that are thicker that might do better for you. Try Mobil1 TDT 5W-40, Quaker "European Formula" 5W-40 looks really good (but it's impossible to find), Amsoil's got some great heavy-weight oils that might do well for you. Maybe blow some money on one of Motul's 40wt oils if you like Motul. There is no definate list of oils right now to recommend for FI guys, just some educated guesses.

Will