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I also forgot to mention, STP Motorsports did my install. If you live in the south florida area, they are very experienced with Differential and Final Drive Gear install's. They do a lot of drag racing mod's and are very experienced. If you need the number to get this installed just PM me and I'll be happy to help you.
Also on a side note, for the person who recommended Japtrix to me, they do not take apart pumpkins for the FD swap, thanks though.
~J
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Parting out full bolt on HR Z. See Mod list in profile
hey jk hrz thanks for the review its nice to hear an hr owners prespective. so all in all, does it feel like more torque or just the engine winding up faster?
hey jk hrz thanks for the review its nice to hear an hr owners prespective. so all in all, does it feel like more torque or just the engine winding up faster?
It definately feel's more torquey because your higher in the RPM band in every gear.
For example, 40MPH in 2nd gear is at approximately 4000 RPMs with the stock 3.5 FD (275 tires).
40MPH in 2nd gear now is around 5000 RPM's with the 4.083 FD. So it definately pulls much harder when you punch it as to compared with the 3.5 FD.
It also gives you an advantage while racing. Everytime you take a gear to redline, it puts the next gear higher in the RPM range so you will always be in the "meaty" part of your power band ; basically it just never stops pulling, lol.
This is seriously an AWESOME mod. Every NA Z should get this, whether it be a DE or HR, Both will accelerate much faster.
~J
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Parting out full bolt on HR Z. See Mod list in profile
hey do you have a track to go test your 1/4 miles or 0-60? id bet youd hit 13.1 if your a good driver, seeming the good drivers on here hit 13.3 with the hr. 0-60 i know isnt the most important thing but im curious if you could pull a 4.8 from the stock 5.2?
I honestly think my car has the potential to hit high 12's in the 1/4 (Seeing that stock VQ35HR's run 13.2 with 2.0 60 foot's), however I can't get a good 60 foot + I have 19" rims on street tires.
Your 1/4 mile time drastically depends on your launch, and I completely fail at that. But then again, I've only been to the track twice.
The best 60 foot I could pull off was a 2.185 and that run was 13.3 @ 107. (Before current tune and 4.083 Gears)
I'm sure if I got a pair of 17's with some nice radial's I Could pull off a high 12, however I'm low on funds and do not plan on purchasing some new rims + tires, sorry about that, but next time I do go to the track, I'll be sure to post some time slips.
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Parting out full bolt on HR Z. See Mod list in profile
I've installed the 4.083 gears this past weekend and they are impressive. My biggest impression is when you hit 2nd, 3rd and even 4th gear while in the peak of the powerband. The differance in pull just makes you say WOW!
Very good mod.
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2003 Brickyard Red Touring 6 Speed 13.201@103.52mph 265HP/249TQ sae corrected
"Z-Xtreme" grounding kit, UR Pulley,
ACT Clutch & Flywheel, Fast Intentions "Intimidator" 2.5" dual exhaust
Stillen "Series II" Front Bumper, Volk Racing SF Challenges
I was wondering if someone on here much smarter than i could explain in detail why the shorter gears work better if you were to go s/c versus turbo later on down the road? I'm definately going FI and am leaning towards ATI Procharger mainly because the owner of the restaurant i manage has had a lot of work done by those guys. Plus i live like 5 minutes from their shop.
If i had to venture a guess (you can point and laugh if im wrong) the shorter gears would do better on a S/C because of the more linear torque curve versus more of a bell type curve for the turbo setup.
Im just planning my build now and will be staying N/A for awhile so I'm trying to plan mods that may still be viable when i go FI. Thanks for any help
im pretty sure it has to do with the fact that superchargers have instant boost per say, so the shorter gears are going to shorten the time you have in each gear, which will increase acceleration. whereas turbos need time to spool up, so longer gears will alow you to stay in boost longer, and also everytime you shift you loose boost so the quicker and more frequently you have to shift, the more you wait for the turbos to spool back up. thats my take on it. not very technical, though.
I have a 07 I’m going to do 4.083 gears in and I’m wondering exactly what I am going to need to do the install properly? Like bearings and shims? my car has about 27000 miles on it if you guys could plz hook me up with a grocery list I will really appreciate it thank you
I have a 07 I’m going to do 4.083 gears in and I’m wondering exactly what I am going to need to do the install properly? Like bearings and shims? my car has about 27000 miles on it if you guys could plz hook me up with a grocery list I will really appreciate it thank you
we have a combo with everything needed - details are in our classified ad
at 27k, I'd suggest doing both install kit 1 and 2, which will give you all new bearings, seals, ring gear bolts, in addition to the crush collar, pinion nut and seal. I would not suggest reusing bearings with that many miles on them
Im about to install the 4.08 in my 7 AT 370 z.
I just bought a complete diff from another member here in Toronto.
I will have it in by mid July.
Will keep you posted.
i would love to do this gearing but I have to commute to work. whats the mpg like and how about high speeds? maybe I should read the ten pages of info.lol
rpms in 6th gear only differ by a couple of hundred vs stock. I've had the 3.9 in my car for years now....zero change in miles per tank since the day I bought the car
the car will still top out higher than you would every be able to drive it on the street (see page 1 for charts)
Since my car has 50,000 miles on it, i would need install kit 1 and 2. How much would it usually cost to have them installed or is the installation easy enough to do on your own with directions? thanks. I am looking to get the 4.08 final drive. Based on what I've been reading, seems it would do my 03 some good
