What is causing this clutch issue?
12-14-2009, 09:10 PM
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What is causing this clutch issue?
I have a 2005 Touring 6-spd 350z with 53,000 miles and recently have noticed that when it is warm outside and I am driving spirited, the clutch lever becomes a lot less resistant than usual. There is normally a free play spot where you push down on the lever and then reach the engagement but when it is warm outside, that free play spot shows almost no resistance and the whole lever just feels abnormally light.
I heard in some cases I should check clutch fluid and possibly drain and replace? Any help would be appreciated, thank you
I heard in some cases I should check clutch fluid and possibly drain and replace? Any help would be appreciated, thank you
12-15-2009, 02:25 AM
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Search, i heave heard of this problem on here. I, however, have never had to add any fluid to my clutch EVER, in 67,000 miles. I don't even know where i would add it. So i'd suspect if it's low, you have an issue.
12-15-2009, 01:17 PM
#5
The clutch will behave differently cold and warm. Its a hydraulic system and all hydraulic systems behave that way. Its your call as to whether performance is acceptable or unacceptable. 53,000 miles and the clutch may just be tired. Difficult to say without taking the clutch apart and checking for wear.
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12-15-2009, 03:17 PM
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It takes like 10 minutes to bleed the clutch on this car and is no different than any other car i have owned (nissan, honda, toyota). Jack up the front end, get and 8mm box end wrench, some small dia. clear tubing (about a foot), and a glass jar and a friend to pump the clutch pedal.
Get under car and attach small tubing to nipple on slave cylinder thats attached to to tranny on the driver side and run it to the jar. have friend pump clutch 5 times then hold to the floor while you release the pressure by turning the nipple with the 8mm wrech. some fluid will come out. then tighten the nipple and have friend release clutch pedal and pull it up off the floor(when you release the pressure the clutch pedal will stick to the floor). Then repeat process until no air bubbles are in the clear tube and the fluid coming out the tube is clean. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level under the hood on the driver side under the cover opposite of the battery. You will have to add more a couple of times throughout the process to get all the old fluid out but make sure that it never gets completely dry as that will put more air in the system. add more when its half to 3/4 empty.
Get under car and attach small tubing to nipple on slave cylinder thats attached to to tranny on the driver side and run it to the jar. have friend pump clutch 5 times then hold to the floor while you release the pressure by turning the nipple with the 8mm wrech. some fluid will come out. then tighten the nipple and have friend release clutch pedal and pull it up off the floor(when you release the pressure the clutch pedal will stick to the floor). Then repeat process until no air bubbles are in the clear tube and the fluid coming out the tube is clean. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level under the hood on the driver side under the cover opposite of the battery. You will have to add more a couple of times throughout the process to get all the old fluid out but make sure that it never gets completely dry as that will put more air in the system. add more when its half to 3/4 empty.
12-15-2009, 03:30 PM
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It takes like 10 minutes to bleed the clutch on this car and is no different than any other car i have owned (nissan, honda, toyota). Jack up the front end, get and 8mm box end wrench, some small dia. clear tubing (about a foot), and a glass jar and a friend to pump the clutch pedal.
Get under car and attach small tubing to nipple on slave cylinder thats attached to to tranny on the driver side and run it to the jar. have friend pump clutch 5 times then hold to the floor while you release the pressure by turning the nipple with the 8mm wrech. some fluid will come out. then tighten the nipple and have friend release clutch pedal and pull it up off the floor(when you release the pressure the clutch pedal will stick to the floor). Then repeat process until no air bubbles are in the clear tube and the fluid coming out the tube is clean. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level under the hood on the driver side under the cover opposite of the battery. You will have to add more a couple of times throughout the process to get all the old fluid out but make sure that it never gets completely dry as that will put more air in the system. add more when its half to 3/4 empty.
Get under car and attach small tubing to nipple on slave cylinder thats attached to to tranny on the driver side and run it to the jar. have friend pump clutch 5 times then hold to the floor while you release the pressure by turning the nipple with the 8mm wrech. some fluid will come out. then tighten the nipple and have friend release clutch pedal and pull it up off the floor(when you release the pressure the clutch pedal will stick to the floor). Then repeat process until no air bubbles are in the clear tube and the fluid coming out the tube is clean. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level under the hood on the driver side under the cover opposite of the battery. You will have to add more a couple of times throughout the process to get all the old fluid out but make sure that it never gets completely dry as that will put more air in the system. add more when its half to 3/4 empty.
12-15-2009, 03:35 PM
#14
I have a 2005 Touring 6-spd 350z with 53,000 miles and recently have noticed that when it is warm outside and I am driving spirited, the clutch lever becomes a lot less resistant than usual. There is normally a free play spot where you push down on the lever and then reach the engagement but when it is warm outside, that free play spot shows almost no resistance and the whole lever just feels abnormally light.
I heard in some cases I should check clutch fluid and possibly drain and replace? Any help would be appreciated, thank you
I heard in some cases I should check clutch fluid and possibly drain and replace? Any help would be appreciated, thank you
Actually now that i recall we also had to do it on a stock exhaust car that one of our customers used on the track.
Last edited by Vince@R/TTuning; 12-15-2009 at 03:42 PM.
12-15-2009, 03:39 PM
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Bone stock.
good info for the future, thank you. i don't have any tools right now and a good place to do my own stuff unless i just drive out to a sports park or something around here
It takes like 10 minutes to bleed the clutch on this car and is no different than any other car i have owned (nissan, honda, toyota). Jack up the front end, get and 8mm box end wrench, some small dia. clear tubing (about a foot), and a glass jar and a friend to pump the clutch pedal.
Get under car and attach small tubing to nipple on slave cylinder thats attached to to tranny on the driver side and run it to the jar. have friend pump clutch 5 times then hold to the floor while you release the pressure by turning the nipple with the 8mm wrech. some fluid will come out. then tighten the nipple and have friend release clutch pedal and pull it up off the floor(when you release the pressure the clutch pedal will stick to the floor). Then repeat process until no air bubbles are in the clear tube and the fluid coming out the tube is clean. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level under the hood on the driver side under the cover opposite of the battery. You will have to add more a couple of times throughout the process to get all the old fluid out but make sure that it never gets completely dry as that will put more air in the system. add more when its half to 3/4 empty.
Get under car and attach small tubing to nipple on slave cylinder thats attached to to tranny on the driver side and run it to the jar. have friend pump clutch 5 times then hold to the floor while you release the pressure by turning the nipple with the 8mm wrech. some fluid will come out. then tighten the nipple and have friend release clutch pedal and pull it up off the floor(when you release the pressure the clutch pedal will stick to the floor). Then repeat process until no air bubbles are in the clear tube and the fluid coming out the tube is clean. Make sure to keep an eye on the fluid level under the hood on the driver side under the cover opposite of the battery. You will have to add more a couple of times throughout the process to get all the old fluid out but make sure that it never gets completely dry as that will put more air in the system. add more when its half to 3/4 empty.
Last edited by cababah; 12-15-2009 at 03:41 PM.
12-15-2009, 05:28 PM
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then you're long overdue
clutch fluid is brake fluid - resovoirs are next to each other. Both are hygroscopic, meaning they absorb water. As this happens over time, their boiling point falls off dramatically, and their ability to deal with heat goes out the window.
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