twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Was changing my diff fluid and noticed this!!

I just got done changing my control arm bushings because they were shot and now its this. Im getting sick on Nissan Rubber.

Anyone got any info on this or expierence with changing it? It looks very tough to change.

My car has 98,500 on the clock.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

calm down. calm it down I said.

Now listen, listen to me: this is extremely common. it is an easy fix.

Here is what you do: buy the 'SPL solid differential bushing kit' (front and rear kits) and replace them. while you are doing that, you should replace the subframe bushings as well, since your car has a lot of miles on it. It is an easy swap, but it requires a few hours of taking things apart is all. if you are not mechanically inclined, pay a shop to do it.

Contact 'Z-1 Auto' to buy the parts. it is well worth the upgrade.

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Ok /thread. Thought I was the only one there for a sec with this problem. Is there a how to fix for this anywhere?

Do you thing that nissan designs there rubber to rot and crack at the same time? It seems this way.

dirtbikr

your car is 6 years old and it has a lot of miles on it. That is a high stress part as it is constantly resisting the diff twisting out. It is made of rubber and is on the underside of a vehicle. it is not ridiculous, it is not Nissan's fault, and you sir need to just fix it with the bushings that Motormouth suggested because they are the ****.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

there are a few threads about it. there is actually a nice one that Z-1 was just posting in with pictures, if I run across it, I will post it here.

90 thousand miles is a long time remember, it probably dried out, then cracked. that is why instead of replacing it with another stock unit that will do the same, you should get the solid differential mount to eliminate the problem, and improve handling.

the bushing can tear in a very short amount of time if you drive the car hard, or do drag launches and such.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

also, you should change the thread title to "raped differential mount!!!" because that is way funnier.

also, here is the thread: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...d-amazing.html

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Awesome, thanks so much. Looks like theres a benefit from changing this too.

So do you have to remove the subframe to change the bushing? That would suck.

Kwame

iTrader: (78)

The subframe does not have to be removed to replace the diff bushings (I believe Motormouth did his awhile ago while the subframe was still installed in the car, correct me if I am wrong) but for the subframe bushings you will need to drop the subframe. Which in itself isn't the most tedious process if you have the right tools (air tools, crepper, tranny jack, etc.) In the Factory Service Manual it gives you a basic outline of how to remove the entire rear suspension as one piece including the rear subframe, upper and lower control arms, spindles, etc.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

Twitch,

To just replace the differential bushings, you do not need to drop the subframe. All that is required is to remove some exhaust components, swaybar and the differential+driveshaft. Once those are out of the way, you can hammer out the old bushing and then insert the new bushing. SPL does not provide instructions, but the FSM instructions on the removal/installation can be followed. The only advice I got from Kuah way back when was to put the bushing into the freezer (to compress the aluminum) and then grease it up with dishsoap, to ensure an easy installation. I thankfully had access to a lift myself, and could see the job taking about 4 hours start to finish for someone who has not done it before, taking your time, if you don't run into any problems like a stripped bolt.

However, it will be easier, in case you run into issues (which is possible, especially since the car has 90k miles, metal gets sticky) to just prepare for it and drop the subframe in the first place. Then, you can use a bushing press to get the new and old bushings in/out with accuracy, instead of hitting it with a hammer. This also gives you a convenient excuse to install the Whiteline subframe bushings. >wink<

As you said, "the car doesn't feel like it should", and that is due to both material fatigue in the subframe, and in the loss of control of the differential, since its motion is supported only by the one bushing in the rear. The bushings are very inexpensive, and you are already doing the disassembly work.

I hope this helps.

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Im going to order all the bushings here in a bit from SPL. I spoke to the shop that works on my car and they said they'll install all the bushings for around $150. They also said they pull the subframe to make the job easier.

I will update the thread after its all said and done. Im actually looking foward to this! Will be nice to see if the car rides somewhat like new again.

Thanks motormouth and kwame.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

you getting the sub-frame bushings as well? it is only 135 bucks!

just FYI, you get no discount from SPL buying direct, always go through their distribution partners, you will get better deals sometimes, and support vendors of this forum.

twitch579

iTrader: (3)

Yea im going to order them also. Might as well being its going to be all ripped apart.

You think Z1 has the best price? I cant find the diff mount on there site.

Motormouth

iTrader: (44)

Z-1's price is the same as SPL on their site. I don't know if they offer a package deal for all the bushings or not. but at least you could combine shipping costs possibly. The differential bushings are listed in the driveline section.

Either Kwame or Adam from Z-1 are usually on the forum if you want to PM to find out. If you were concerned about price shopping, R/T Tuning (215 855-5565) are also a very nice shop who sponsor this forum. Their website is not up at the moment and I am not sure if they stock SPL.

I have no affiliation to either shop.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I would drop the sub frame, replace the rear diff subframe bushing with the solid spl, the fronts diff "ears" with white line and the sub frame bushings also with white line....

like the linked thread above...shows....
-J