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What could cause stub shafts to pull out?

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Old 05-12-2010, 08:14 AM
  #21  
sektor 11
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I talked to Z1 and they informed me it will be a "bolt on" procedure on my 2006 base (although they still didn't ask for my VIN which it says they will need on their website). Fingers crossed!
Old 05-12-2010, 08:20 AM
  #22  
bbs350z
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i just got a used 3.3 lsd rear end, and only 1 side shaft pulls out about half inch. its on the oem vlsd too. so all i need is a new snapring or what?
Old 05-12-2010, 10:39 AM
  #23  
terrasmak
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With a little help from a machine shop this is what you get, i modded the tapered stubs to accept the snap ring the same way the other stub shafts do. Simple cheap and easy, you just have to buy the 2 snaprings from nissan.

Old 05-17-2010, 04:58 AM
  #24  
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I was told I just need to order a flange from Nissan to make it work. We'll see!
Old 05-24-2010, 05:37 AM
  #25  
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Terrasmak, thanks for turning me onto this post.

Just to recap:
- I have an '07 base pumpkin.
- Purchased OS Giken Super-lock from Z1 Performance
- Did the build and install, ran into same issue w/ getting the snap ring into the OS.
- Figured I'd give it a shot w/o them
- Awesome diff from what I could tell so far
- Found the stub axles were pulling out, need to get snap rings in.
Old 05-24-2010, 11:56 AM
  #26  
terrasmak
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I'll bet you have the same stub axles i have, if so, have a machine shop cut them.
Old 05-24-2010, 03:27 PM
  #27  
drivesolo
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
I'll bet you have the same stub axles i have, if so, have a machine shop cut them.
Yep, indeed I do. I was able to get straightened out eventually. I've got a lathe, I'll try machining them. I also have a '06 VLSD and I can pull the one short axle out of it to take dimensions and use the proper C-clip. Thanks again.
Old 06-05-2010, 07:15 AM
  #28  
JasonZ-YA
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Awesome work...........

So you had a machine shop cut the existing groove deeper???
It was not deep enough to accept that snap ring???

-J
Old 10-28-2010, 06:08 AM
  #29  
Bigalow
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Awesome work...........

So you had a machine shop cut the existing groove deeper???
It was not deep enough to accept that snap ring???

-J
+1.

I'm curious too. That's all that's needed?
Old 01-08-2012, 03:17 PM
  #30  
terrasmak
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Originally Posted by Bigalow
+1.

I'm curious too. That's all that's needed?
Bumping this thread, yes that is all that is needed. I havn't talked to OS Giken in a while, i should have at SEMA, but they may have sideplates availabel for both styles od stub axles now.

BTW, my diff is still working great.
Old 04-09-2012, 09:01 PM
  #31  
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Has anyone out there have this same problem with the Carbonetics 2.0 way LSD??? I was able to get the snap ring into the differential without having to cut the groove deeper on the stub axle, however, im still running into the problem with the axle sliding out about 1/2 an inch, then it catches the stub axle but still throws off my ABS. Any input could be helpful. I'm just wondering if i have to machine the groove a little bit deeper as well on my stub axle.

Last edited by Hobart187; 04-10-2012 at 12:38 PM.
Old 04-27-2012, 06:14 AM
  #32  
bjr
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So your original problem with the splines sliding out is that there were no clips used at all right?
Once you cut the groove deeper the goove was still in the correct location compared to the "old style" stub?
I have an 05 base and am just going to take the pumkin out and put it in storage. I bought a junkyard pumpkin from what was supposed to be an 03 Base but after I took it apart it is a VLSD. The yard claims Nissan ran the VIN for them yesterday and it was ordered base and had a performance package added to it. It has the shorter left stub and the longer VLSD on the right. I called and complained and they are willling to send me for free a 04 base right flange so that I can put stub axles in the Quaife QDF11L I have coming for a base but when he sent me a pic it is the tapered new style with a little more spline on the end than the "old style". Exactly what is shown in this thread.
I know I have to cut the goove deeper but do you guys think if you measure from the axle side of the stub that the groove starts at the same distance away so that the groove is in the same position whether it's old style or new? I'm a little worried about that for some reason!
And I'm more than confused that I would be getting what looks like a tapered new style from an 04! That's kind of why I thought I would share. That makes no sense

I'll add pics if anyone cares or has an opinion
Old 04-27-2012, 08:49 AM
  #33  
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You have a VLSD stub to look at and measure , it's not really that precise of a measurement. The stub with the clip actually slightly floats in the carrier. Just bring both stubs to the machine shop and ask them to make the cut.
Old 05-07-2012, 09:59 AM
  #34  
bjr
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Now that they actually sent me the stub, it is from a 2005. That makes more sense because the flat and tapered version started changing over during 2005 from what I understand.
If I still have a hosting account somewhere I'll post a pic of all three side by side in case anyone else runs into some problems or confusion...

Last edited by bjr; 05-07-2012 at 10:00 AM.
Old 05-08-2012, 07:21 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by bjr
So your original problem with the splines sliding out is that there were no clips used at all right?
Once you cut the groove deeper the goove was still in the correct location compared to the "old style" stub?
I have an 05 base and am just going to take the pumkin out and put it in storage. I bought a junkyard pumpkin from what was supposed to be an 03 Base but after I took it apart it is a VLSD. The yard claims Nissan ran the VIN for them yesterday and it was ordered base and had a performance package added to it. It has the shorter left stub and the longer VLSD on the right. I called and complained and they are willling to send me for free a 04 base right flange so that I can put stub axles in the Quaife QDF11L I have coming for a base but when he sent me a pic it is the tapered new style with a little more spline on the end than the "old style". Exactly what is shown in this thread.
I know I have to cut the goove deeper but do you guys think if you measure from the axle side of the stub that the groove starts at the same distance away so that the groove is in the same position whether it's old style or new? I'm a little worried about that for some reason!
And I'm more than confused that I would be getting what looks like a tapered new style from an 04! That's kind of why I thought I would share. That makes no sense

I'll add pics if anyone cares or has an opinion
that is correct, and there was no way to install a c clip .
Old 05-09-2012, 03:52 PM
  #36  
bjr
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[IMG][/IMG]

Here is from left to right:
03 driver side from VLSD
03 pass. side from VLSD
05 pass side from open
Old 08-14-2012, 04:08 PM
  #37  
bjr
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It turns out that the Quaife comes with rings inside. Both of the shorter stubs I showed are working. One pushes in and does not pull out at all. The tapered one, the clip groove is twice as wide as the clip so it pushes in then can be pulled out 0.083". Don't think that's going to be a big deal. I'll just see if anything leaks on the bench before I install it. At this point until I get my original rear out I don't know if the preference is for it to be tight or slightly float. Both of mine require a small tap from a pulling hammer so I know they both are catching. I would hate to modify either one of them in some way and screw either one up.
Message to all doing rear end work. If at all possible check out all carriers and stubs as the first step of your project to see what kind of mess you might get into. Like the terrasmak found out you always should find a way to use the clips!

Thanks again for helping me come up with a plan early on to correct my situation. Seems like it is going to work out. I would have had no recourse with the junk yard if I waited over 2 months to contact them about the wrong parts. They were more than willing to help the same week I received it.
Old 09-24-2012, 01:10 AM
  #38  
350Zdj
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reviving this thread for some more info as i'll be installing my OS Giken unit pretty soon.

More info regarding side shafts from OS Giken website:
http://www.osgiken.net/upload/d43.pdf

Source link for the side flange mentioned from OS Giken tech sheet...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/flange-asm-p-351241.html
Old 09-25-2013, 12:37 PM
  #39  
scotts300
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Originally Posted by bjr
[IMG][/IMG]

Here is from left to right:
03 driver side from VLSD
03 pass. side from VLSD
05 pass side from open
"Again, this is not an issue on 2003-2005 BASE model cars at all (and even some 2006's too). They all use the same 'old' style shaft on the one side. Only the later cars use the 'newer' shaft. Why they changed it, who knows. Nissan does weird stuff sometimes!"

Ok, trying to do some hw as I swap the diff on my HR.

It currently has a Quaife diff, and I've sold the pumpkin with stub axles in swap for an OEM LSD from a non-base HR. I know the NISMO-brand or Wavetrac diff I'm buying requires two "SHORT" stub axles. I believe the non-base VLSD comes with one long and one short, leaving me short one short stub axle, correct?

Here's another monkey wrench, I have parts from an OEM VLSD from an 05 anniversary car. That car had the diff upgraded to an OS Giken, and I know I've seen at least one stub axle from that car in the parts bin after it had the OSG swap done. I assume that's a long axle as well. Are all the non-base Zs use the same stub axles (since it seems that only the 2003-2005 and some 2006s use the 'old' shaft on the one side). How confusing! Lastly, if it needs two short stub axles, do they have the same part number (i.e. it will say right stub axles but will actually be used on the left)? Thanks!
Old 09-24-2014, 05:46 PM
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crZydave
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I am sofa king lost, sorry guys. I am installing the OS Giken LSD on my 08. I have an open diff with these stub shafts. I've never installed a diff before so I don't know how hard it should be to get these things in. I sure as hell don't want to crew anything up trying to force something on. BTW, I forgot to put the retaining clips in and I had to yank the diff back out. Do I have the right stubs? And the retaining clips out of the open diff should work?




Last edited by crZydave; 09-24-2014 at 05:48 PM.


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