OS Giken Super-lock LSD Installation
06-03-2010, 05:39 PM
#1
OS Giken Super-lock LSD Installation
This was my first attempt at a back-end build. Overall it was a surprisingly easy build, nothing overly complex, but it does require a methodical approach and some problem solving. Since the periods of time when I could get out to the garage was limited over the course of a week (1/2 hr – 1 hour periods on weeknights, more time during the weekends), I took my time to make sure I wasn’t missing something from the day before. It seems that the whole build w/ removal and install of the pumpkin can be done in less than 5 hrs. I think for me I would estimate it to be about 7 hours since I was doing some learning and experimenting along the way.
I ran into a few problems during my install that had to be addressed. Had I known them before hand I might have gone w/ a different LSD. I spoke w/ an engineer from OS at great length, getting a lot of detailed information about their product, their service, recommendation applications and how to correct my issue. Simply put, they were awesome. They took time to answer all my questions thoroughly (yeah, even the proverbial stupid questions). OS Giken gave me the best technical support of any aftermarket product I’ve had to contact the manufacturer about. After talking w/ them I was pleased that I had chosen an OS.
A couple of per purchase info you should know before doing the OS install:
At the time that I am writing this, the Super-lock LSD is originally intended for mid-2005 and older open diffs. It’s not that you can’t use it to replace a newer open diff or even a VLSD, you just need the proper stub axles. The stub axles for older open diffs and one from the driver’s side of a VLSD is the type you want. They are the type that has a groove that retains the C-clip on the stub axle when removed. They are also identified by the “flat” ends as opposed to the “tapered” ends of the alternative.
The primary difference is that the groove of the tapered axle is not deep enough to retain a clip and allow it to compress when pressed into the differential. There is an alternative to using the flat ones if you’d rather not purchase them (~$150 each). As terrasmak did in this post:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/483882-what-could-cause-stub-shafts-to-pull-out.html
He had the grooves machined deeper to support the C-clips (Thanks terrasmak). I attempted to do the same to mine. If you attempt to do this, know this; the metal that the stub axle is made from an extremely hard steel. It caught me completely off guard; it was almost like trying to machine tool steel. I was able to get it to the 0.980” I.D. of the “flat” stub axle but not before breaking the custom ground carbide tipped cutting bit that took me over a half-hour to make. During the time on the lathe, I had to remove the bit and sharpen it several times and ran out of cutting oil. In lieu of making a 2nd bit and going though the headache of machining the 2nd axle, I just pulled the need stub axle from my VLSD and used that. I’ll look for a replacement at some point in the future.
According to OS Giken they will come out w/ a new version of the Super-lock that will be made to replace the VLSD diffs.
Here’s what I had to work w/:
- ’07 base pumpkin (open diff), off of car: I removed this from the car w/ less than 200 miles on it as a result it was relatively brand new. I decide to reuse the bearings and kept the oil seals.
- ’06 VLSD pumpkin, installed on car:
- Car: ’07 base, 18k miles, items relevant to install: Nismo exhaust, Stillen rear swaybar
Aside from the usual hand tools/supplies, I used these tools/supplies:
- Dial indicator
- Large bearing puller
- Slide hammer
- 10 ton press
- Gear marking paste
- High-temp, high-strength thread locker
- High-temp gasket maker
- Motul SAE90 diff oil
These tools made the job a whole lot easier:
- Transmission Jack
- Air ratchet
- Impact wrench
- Gasket scraper
- Compressed air for cleaning
- Wire brush
If you’re not willing to take any risks (I did not have any of these):
- Nissan differential spacer kit
- Nissan pinion gear spacer kit
- 10 new ring gear bolts
- New oil seals
- New bearings
Refer to the FSM for information on how to do this and for torques specs. What I’ve written here may not be the right way to do it, it’s just the way I did mine. I wish I would’ve taken notes during the install, but I usually keep an old digital camera in the garage and was able to take some pics during the course of my build.
I ran into a few problems during my install that had to be addressed. Had I known them before hand I might have gone w/ a different LSD. I spoke w/ an engineer from OS at great length, getting a lot of detailed information about their product, their service, recommendation applications and how to correct my issue. Simply put, they were awesome. They took time to answer all my questions thoroughly (yeah, even the proverbial stupid questions). OS Giken gave me the best technical support of any aftermarket product I’ve had to contact the manufacturer about. After talking w/ them I was pleased that I had chosen an OS.
A couple of per purchase info you should know before doing the OS install:
At the time that I am writing this, the Super-lock LSD is originally intended for mid-2005 and older open diffs. It’s not that you can’t use it to replace a newer open diff or even a VLSD, you just need the proper stub axles. The stub axles for older open diffs and one from the driver’s side of a VLSD is the type you want. They are the type that has a groove that retains the C-clip on the stub axle when removed. They are also identified by the “flat” ends as opposed to the “tapered” ends of the alternative.
The primary difference is that the groove of the tapered axle is not deep enough to retain a clip and allow it to compress when pressed into the differential. There is an alternative to using the flat ones if you’d rather not purchase them (~$150 each). As terrasmak did in this post:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/483882-what-could-cause-stub-shafts-to-pull-out.html
He had the grooves machined deeper to support the C-clips (Thanks terrasmak). I attempted to do the same to mine. If you attempt to do this, know this; the metal that the stub axle is made from an extremely hard steel. It caught me completely off guard; it was almost like trying to machine tool steel. I was able to get it to the 0.980” I.D. of the “flat” stub axle but not before breaking the custom ground carbide tipped cutting bit that took me over a half-hour to make. During the time on the lathe, I had to remove the bit and sharpen it several times and ran out of cutting oil. In lieu of making a 2nd bit and going though the headache of machining the 2nd axle, I just pulled the need stub axle from my VLSD and used that. I’ll look for a replacement at some point in the future.
According to OS Giken they will come out w/ a new version of the Super-lock that will be made to replace the VLSD diffs.
Here’s what I had to work w/:
- ’07 base pumpkin (open diff), off of car: I removed this from the car w/ less than 200 miles on it as a result it was relatively brand new. I decide to reuse the bearings and kept the oil seals.
- ’06 VLSD pumpkin, installed on car:
- Car: ’07 base, 18k miles, items relevant to install: Nismo exhaust, Stillen rear swaybar
Aside from the usual hand tools/supplies, I used these tools/supplies:
- Dial indicator
- Large bearing puller
- Slide hammer
- 10 ton press
- Gear marking paste
- High-temp, high-strength thread locker
- High-temp gasket maker
- Motul SAE90 diff oil
These tools made the job a whole lot easier:
- Transmission Jack
- Air ratchet
- Impact wrench
- Gasket scraper
- Compressed air for cleaning
- Wire brush
If you’re not willing to take any risks (I did not have any of these):
- Nissan differential spacer kit
- Nissan pinion gear spacer kit
- 10 new ring gear bolts
- New oil seals
- New bearings
Refer to the FSM for information on how to do this and for torques specs. What I’ve written here may not be the right way to do it, it’s just the way I did mine. I wish I would’ve taken notes during the install, but I usually keep an old digital camera in the garage and was able to take some pics during the course of my build.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-03-2010 at 08:12 PM.
06-03-2010, 05:39 PM
#2
Step 1: Remove Differential
Since the open diff was already removed I didn’t start here, but I did have to remove the VLSD from the Z before I could get the LSD on. It’s pretty straight forward:
- Get the car up on stands, the higher the better so you have room to use breaker bars and roll around on a creeper. I just raised the rear and didn’t go high enough so it was a bit of a PITA working on it even w/o the creeper.
- Drain diff (optional, can be done once diff is off).
- Remove the mid-pipe. Supposedly if you have a the OEM exhaust all you need to do is unbolt the mounting bracket of the mid-pipe and you can work out the swaybar and move the exhaust over enough to drop the diff.
- Remove plastic panels to get access to sway bar chassis mounts.
- Remove rear sway bar.
- Remove the twelve(12) bolts (6 per side) that connect the diff’s stub axles to the axles, use wire to suspend the axles from the subframe once disconnected.
- Remove the four(4) propeller shaft bolts. Use shop towels to provide padding to rest the propeller shaft on the chassis bracing. Be careful not to bump it against the flange of the Y-pipe.
- Remove the two(2) ABS sensors, tuck them up between the subframe and the chassis.
- The 17mm nut that mounts the diff’s cover plate to the aft portion of the subframe; this was a PITA for me. Use ample penetrating fluid and a long bar to break the nut loose. Loosen it but keep the nut on for now.
- Loosen the two(2) 17mm bolts that hold the forward part of the diff to the subframe, don’t remove them yet.
- Set-up the tranny jack underneath the diff, remove the forward bolts and the aft nut. Work the diff out of the aft mounting hole.
- Lower the diff slightly to gain access to the breather hose, remove the breather hose.
- Lower pumpkin and slide it out from under the car.
- Get the car up on stands, the higher the better so you have room to use breaker bars and roll around on a creeper. I just raised the rear and didn’t go high enough so it was a bit of a PITA working on it even w/o the creeper.
- Drain diff (optional, can be done once diff is off).
- Remove the mid-pipe. Supposedly if you have a the OEM exhaust all you need to do is unbolt the mounting bracket of the mid-pipe and you can work out the swaybar and move the exhaust over enough to drop the diff.
- Remove plastic panels to get access to sway bar chassis mounts.
- Remove rear sway bar.
- Remove the twelve(12) bolts (6 per side) that connect the diff’s stub axles to the axles, use wire to suspend the axles from the subframe once disconnected.
- Remove the four(4) propeller shaft bolts. Use shop towels to provide padding to rest the propeller shaft on the chassis bracing. Be careful not to bump it against the flange of the Y-pipe.
- Remove the two(2) ABS sensors, tuck them up between the subframe and the chassis.
- The 17mm nut that mounts the diff’s cover plate to the aft portion of the subframe; this was a PITA for me. Use ample penetrating fluid and a long bar to break the nut loose. Loosen it but keep the nut on for now.
- Loosen the two(2) 17mm bolts that hold the forward part of the diff to the subframe, don’t remove them yet.
- Set-up the tranny jack underneath the diff, remove the forward bolts and the aft nut. Work the diff out of the aft mounting hole.
- Lower the diff slightly to gain access to the breather hose, remove the breather hose.
- Lower pumpkin and slide it out from under the car.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-03-2010 at 05:41 PM.
06-03-2010, 05:41 PM
#3
Step 2: Disassemble Diff
- After draining the diff of it’s fluid, remove the eight(8) bolts that mount the cover plate to the diff housing.
- Using a dial indicator, measure the pre-install backlash (0.004 – 0.006), I measured 0.005 – perfect!
- Using a slide hammer or a mallet, knock out the stub axles.
- You can mark them Left and Right, but since they are the same and don’t affect the diff’s alignment, it’s not really necessary.
- Remove the four(4) bolts that from the bearing caps, mark them accordingly.
- Using a slide hammer, coax out the diff from the housing, keep in mind that there is hardware at the ends that you will want to label accordingly before putting them aside.
- Using a dial indicator, measure the pre-install backlash (0.004 – 0.006), I measured 0.005 – perfect!
- Using a slide hammer or a mallet, knock out the stub axles.
- You can mark them Left and Right, but since they are the same and don’t affect the diff’s alignment, it’s not really necessary.
- Remove the four(4) bolts that from the bearing caps, mark them accordingly.
- Using a slide hammer, coax out the diff from the housing, keep in mind that there is hardware at the ends that you will want to label accordingly before putting them aside.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-03-2010 at 08:15 PM.
06-03-2010, 05:42 PM
#4
Step 2a: Removing Bearings (after ring gear removal)
If you have more than 20k miles on your diff, you’ll need to replace the bearings. I had less than 200 miles on my diff so I would be reusing them.
- Clamp on the bearing separator. While tightening the separator, keep checking the race around the bearing to make sure that the separator is not imparting any load on it. It will ruin the bearing if end up pushing against the race.
- If the race is being contacted, you will need to use a bigger bearing separator.
- I attempted to use a gear puller rated for 5 tons, not luck, it was starting to bend. I wrapped everything up and took it over to first350’s place, where he’s got a 10 ton hydraulic press. Bearings came out w/o a problem. Saved myself about $150 and a 5 day wait.
- Clamp on the bearing separator. While tightening the separator, keep checking the race around the bearing to make sure that the separator is not imparting any load on it. It will ruin the bearing if end up pushing against the race.
- If the race is being contacted, you will need to use a bigger bearing separator.
- I attempted to use a gear puller rated for 5 tons, not luck, it was starting to bend. I wrapped everything up and took it over to first350’s place, where he’s got a 10 ton hydraulic press. Bearings came out w/o a problem. Saved myself about $150 and a 5 day wait.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-04-2010 at 07:06 AM.
06-03-2010, 05:44 PM
#5
Step 3: Ring Gear Removal
I have an impact wrench rated for 625 ft lbs (actual is probably around 500 ft lbs), I’ve named it Mjolnir. I’ve used it only once at full power to intentionally snap a wheel stud w/ a seized nut. I used it at full power that one time, that is…. until now. There are ten(10) large bolts that hold the ring gear onto the diff. Each one is held on w/ high-strength thread locker, which usually has a break away force of close to 300 ft lbs. From what I’ve read guys have attempted removing them w/ a breaker bar and a really long pipe. Results have varied. I gotta respect the determination of an individual to attempting to tackle this job w/ just hand tools. I’m too lazy though… plus the load you place by using a long leaver causes a force that has to push against the bolt in addition to the sheer load due to torsion. I planned to reuse the ring gear bolts, even though the FSM says to replace them. They are intentionally stressed during installation which potentially weakens them for further use after they’ve been removed. I have no plans to go FI in the future w/ this build so I deemed it an acceptable risk.
- Number the bolts in-sequence making a mark on the ring gear to where the first bolt goes. This is the way I did it; you can mark them according to the sequence you wish to tighten when you do the install.
- Remove the ring gear bolts.
- Clean off the thread locker from the bolts w/ a stiff wire brush.
- Thoroughly blow clean the threaded holes w/ compressed-air to remove all traces if the old thread locker.
- Number the bolts in-sequence making a mark on the ring gear to where the first bolt goes. This is the way I did it; you can mark them according to the sequence you wish to tighten when you do the install.
- Remove the ring gear bolts.
- Clean off the thread locker from the bolts w/ a stiff wire brush.
- Thoroughly blow clean the threaded holes w/ compressed-air to remove all traces if the old thread locker.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-04-2010 at 07:08 AM.
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06-03-2010, 05:44 PM
#6
Step 4: Installing Bearings
ID of the bearing(s):1.848
OD of LSD’s shaft(s):1.852
0.004 press fit, that is VERY tight.
- I’ve done the trick of using a hot plate and the fridge to get pressed bearings on before, but only for parts w/ a 0.003 press fit. You can heat the bearing on a hot plate causing it to expand and keep the receiving part in the fridge to cause it to shrink. Get the receiving part ready then quickly tap it onto the receiving shaft. You will need adequate gloves to handle the bearing if you attempt to do this. After looking around the kitchen for something adequate to use to heat up the bearing, the closest thing I could find was a George Foreman grill… Fail.
- I thought about using a heat gun to heat up the bearing but figured that could take a long time and do it unevenly. So… I wrapped up everything again and headed over to first350’s place. Nothing like having a friend w/ a 10 ton press.
- Carefully press the bearings on straight, be careful not to impart any load on the races.
OD of LSD’s shaft(s):1.852
0.004 press fit, that is VERY tight.
- I’ve done the trick of using a hot plate and the fridge to get pressed bearings on before, but only for parts w/ a 0.003 press fit. You can heat the bearing on a hot plate causing it to expand and keep the receiving part in the fridge to cause it to shrink. Get the receiving part ready then quickly tap it onto the receiving shaft. You will need adequate gloves to handle the bearing if you attempt to do this. After looking around the kitchen for something adequate to use to heat up the bearing, the closest thing I could find was a George Foreman grill… Fail.
- I thought about using a heat gun to heat up the bearing but figured that could take a long time and do it unevenly. So… I wrapped up everything again and headed over to first350’s place. Nothing like having a friend w/ a 10 ton press.
- Carefully press the bearings on straight, be careful not to impart any load on the races.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-03-2010 at 05:50 PM.
06-03-2010, 05:45 PM
#7
Step 5: Installing Ring Gear
This operation is a bit time critical since the thread locker will set in 20 minutes. It can be done by hand but using an air ratchet will give you plenty of time to spare. I was watching the clock while I did this and finished in 6 minutes from the time I put the first bolt in . You’re also going to put a lot of load to get the ring gear bolts torqued to spec so position everything in a safe way that will minimize any potential for slipping or pulling the differential out of the vise.
- Clamp down the OS to a bench vice tightly.
- To optimize time; layout out the bolts in numeric sequence.
- Make sure the mating surfaces between the ring gear and the diff are clean and free of debris.
- Apply thread locker to all bolts, keeping them in sequence.
- Position Ring gear on LSD.
- Replace bolts in proper sequence.
- If you numbered them the way I did (1-10 going clockwise) the pattern for tightening would be: 1-6-3-8-5-10-7-2-9-4
- Tighten them to torque specs + 30 degrees per FSM.
- You can attempt to do the 31-36 degrees additional load if you aren't reusing the old bolts so I only went about 15-20 degrees.
- Clamp down the OS to a bench vice tightly.
- To optimize time; layout out the bolts in numeric sequence.
- Make sure the mating surfaces between the ring gear and the diff are clean and free of debris.
- Apply thread locker to all bolts, keeping them in sequence.
- Position Ring gear on LSD.
- Replace bolts in proper sequence.
- If you numbered them the way I did (1-10 going clockwise) the pattern for tightening would be: 1-6-3-8-5-10-7-2-9-4
- Tighten them to torque specs + 30 degrees per FSM.
- You can attempt to do the 31-36 degrees additional load if you aren't reusing the old bolts so I only went about 15-20 degrees.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-04-2010 at 07:12 AM.
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06-03-2010, 05:46 PM
#8
Step 6: Set LSD into Pumpkin
This part has to be done w/ cleanliness in mind. Any variances of more that 0.001 of an inch could take your installation out of spec. The results could be your ring and pinion gears could wear prematurely as well as getting a lot of differential noise. A lot of the noise and clunkiness that people experience w/ clutch-type LSD can be associated to this step. To insure smooth operation you need to make sure the installation of the diff is as close as possible to perfect. Also helps to have a quality built LSD too.
- Use a gasket scraper to scrape off old gasket from cover plate and pumpkin housing making sure to dig out the materials in the grooves of the cover plate.
- Use a stiff wire brush to remove residue that you can’t get to w/ the scraper.
- Replace oil seals and grease them.
- Clean off parts, blow the bearings w/ compressed air to remove any debris that might be in between the race and the hub. Make sure the seats specifically are absolutely fee of anything that might influence its contact w/ the housing.
- Wipe the areas clean that the bearing seats will be making contact with. This is very important since any debris that could potential add +0.002 would cause poor mating of the ring and pinion.
- Apply some diff oil onto the bearings before placing the seats over them.
- Place the corresponding bearing seats onto the bearings and place the whole assembly into the diff, your hands and the diff should be clean during this process as not to impart any debris.
- Place each corresponding spacer back into the diff. I had to tap one slightly since it is snug fit. If it’s loose or too tight to get in, you’ll have a problem and you’ll need the spacer kit to compensate.
- Return the proper bearing caps, torque them to spec.
- Use a gasket scraper to scrape off old gasket from cover plate and pumpkin housing making sure to dig out the materials in the grooves of the cover plate.
- Use a stiff wire brush to remove residue that you can’t get to w/ the scraper.
- Replace oil seals and grease them.
- Clean off parts, blow the bearings w/ compressed air to remove any debris that might be in between the race and the hub. Make sure the seats specifically are absolutely fee of anything that might influence its contact w/ the housing.
- Wipe the areas clean that the bearing seats will be making contact with. This is very important since any debris that could potential add +0.002 would cause poor mating of the ring and pinion.
- Apply some diff oil onto the bearings before placing the seats over them.
- Place the corresponding bearing seats onto the bearings and place the whole assembly into the diff, your hands and the diff should be clean during this process as not to impart any debris.
- Place each corresponding spacer back into the diff. I had to tap one slightly since it is snug fit. If it’s loose or too tight to get in, you’ll have a problem and you’ll need the spacer kit to compensate.
- Return the proper bearing caps, torque them to spec.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-04-2010 at 11:40 AM.
06-03-2010, 05:46 PM
#9
Step 7: Check Tolerances
Pray that the next part doesn’t screw you up. Not having done many of these I don’t know how often an assembly goes together and is out of spec. Theoretically if the diff was machined to w/in the proper spec of the OEM diff w/ close enough precision, it should go back together smoothly. The question now is - How much faith do you have the work of the manufacturer?
- Using a dial indicator, measure the backlash. If it’s off …oh man… you may need to adjust your pinion position, that’s gonna be more work, see FSM section RFD. It's possible that there could be some debris under one or both of the bearing seats, you could try checking that before pulling the pinion. I lucked out: 0.005 – perfect! Whew….
- Apply the gear marking paste to the front and back of about 4-5 teeth on the ring gear. Run that section through the pinion back and forth several times
- Check the resulting spread pattern. I lucked out again, it came out perfect. Whew….
- You can also check the force required to turn the ring-gear assembly, but it felt right so I didn’t bother.
- Using a dial indicator, measure the backlash. If it’s off …oh man… you may need to adjust your pinion position, that’s gonna be more work, see FSM section RFD. It's possible that there could be some debris under one or both of the bearing seats, you could try checking that before pulling the pinion. I lucked out: 0.005 – perfect! Whew….
- Apply the gear marking paste to the front and back of about 4-5 teeth on the ring gear. Run that section through the pinion back and forth several times
- Check the resulting spread pattern. I lucked out again, it came out perfect. Whew….
- You can also check the force required to turn the ring-gear assembly, but it felt right so I didn’t bother.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-03-2010 at 08:26 PM.
06-03-2010, 05:47 PM
#10
Step 8: Closing up the Pumpkin
- Apply the gasket maker to the coverplate.
- Use your finger to adequately and evenly spread the sealant. This is done to remove any possible pockets of air.
- Position it correct and bolt it back in place, torque to spec
- Carefully place the stub axle into position before you use a mallet to drive them in. You do not want to damage the oil seal during this process. Even a slight nick can cause them to leak oil when the diff oil heats up. It may require a good amount of effort to get it initially started since the C-Clip needs to be initially compressed.
- Once the clip is in you will feel the point where it seats itself.
- Fill the diff w/ your choice of LSD differential oil.
- The differential is done.
- Use your finger to adequately and evenly spread the sealant. This is done to remove any possible pockets of air.
- Position it correct and bolt it back in place, torque to spec
- Carefully place the stub axle into position before you use a mallet to drive them in. You do not want to damage the oil seal during this process. Even a slight nick can cause them to leak oil when the diff oil heats up. It may require a good amount of effort to get it initially started since the C-Clip needs to be initially compressed.
- Once the clip is in you will feel the point where it seats itself.
- Fill the diff w/ your choice of LSD differential oil.
- The differential is done.
Last edited by drivesolo; 06-03-2010 at 06:22 PM.
06-03-2010, 05:48 PM
#11
Step 9: Reinstall Pumpkin
- Position the pumpkin on you tranny jack.
- Raise it into position, connecting the breather hose.
- Put the aft mount in first and raise the front end to bolt the forward part of the diff in place.
- Bolt up the aft end and torque the aft and two forward mounts to spec.
- Reconnect the ABS sensors.
- Reconnect the axles, torque to spec.
- Reconnect the propeller shaft, torque to spec.
- Make sure to remove the wire that you used to support the axles and the padding used to rest the propeller shaft on.
- Replace Sway bar, torque to spec
- Replace mid pipe, torque to spec
- Replace plastic underbody components.
- Remove all tools from under car and lower car.
- Done!
- Raise it into position, connecting the breather hose.
- Put the aft mount in first and raise the front end to bolt the forward part of the diff in place.
- Bolt up the aft end and torque the aft and two forward mounts to spec.
- Reconnect the ABS sensors.
- Reconnect the axles, torque to spec.
- Reconnect the propeller shaft, torque to spec.
- Make sure to remove the wire that you used to support the axles and the padding used to rest the propeller shaft on.
- Replace Sway bar, torque to spec
- Replace mid pipe, torque to spec
- Replace plastic underbody components.
- Remove all tools from under car and lower car.
- Done!
06-03-2010, 08:45 PM
#13
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I've got 4 track events on mine in the past 2k miles its been installed. Just a little clunky for daily driving, but not as bad as others (i'm not running their recomended fluid either). On the track, i can actually exit out of a corner now. I didn't know my tires had so much grip.
Last edited by terrasmak; 06-03-2010 at 10:54 PM.
06-04-2010, 09:55 PM
#16
Awesome write-up! It was full of an amazing amount of detail and information.
What type of gear marking compound is that? I used Permatex Prussian Blue, but that yellow stuff looks a lot easier to see!
I love how you used zip-ties to keep things seperated! I used zip-lock bags. Whatever, as long as things are organized. Most people don't know that the bearing caps are not interchangeable and the bearing cups must be kept with its bearing.
If all you are doing is replacing the open carrier to a limited slip, you should never have to readjust the pinion depth. It's safe to assume Nissan adjusted it properly from the factory. The new limited slip is on a spinning axis and its distance from pinion should be exactly the same as the old one. You need to only adjust the backlash.
It's almost impossible to get a bearing seperator (clamshell) under the ring gear side bearing and most standard pullers jaw's are too short and fat to get under the bearings. Using the wrong tool will almost always result in a damaged bearing. If you can afford it, the OTC Side Differential Bearing Puller removes the bearings flawlessly. However, it costs almost $100 and if you're only doing this job once, that probably wouldn't be the best investment.
When it's time to install the cover, find two old bolts that are the same diameter and thread pitch as the cover bolts. Cut the heads off and screw them in a few turns with your fingers. Now you have two guide pins. When you slide the cover on, you won't get sealant all over the place!
What type of gear marking compound is that? I used Permatex Prussian Blue, but that yellow stuff looks a lot easier to see!
I love how you used zip-ties to keep things seperated! I used zip-lock bags. Whatever, as long as things are organized. Most people don't know that the bearing caps are not interchangeable and the bearing cups must be kept with its bearing.
If all you are doing is replacing the open carrier to a limited slip, you should never have to readjust the pinion depth. It's safe to assume Nissan adjusted it properly from the factory. The new limited slip is on a spinning axis and its distance from pinion should be exactly the same as the old one. You need to only adjust the backlash.
It's almost impossible to get a bearing seperator (clamshell) under the ring gear side bearing and most standard pullers jaw's are too short and fat to get under the bearings. Using the wrong tool will almost always result in a damaged bearing. If you can afford it, the OTC Side Differential Bearing Puller removes the bearings flawlessly. However, it costs almost $100 and if you're only doing this job once, that probably wouldn't be the best investment.
When it's time to install the cover, find two old bolts that are the same diameter and thread pitch as the cover bolts. Cut the heads off and screw them in a few turns with your fingers. Now you have two guide pins. When you slide the cover on, you won't get sealant all over the place!
Last edited by Lawn Dart; 06-04-2010 at 09:56 PM.
06-05-2010, 09:03 AM
#17
^ Its a GM Goodwrench product that I picked up at a local transmission part shop. Gear Marking Compound #1052351
I have a bearing puller kit but it did not have a separator large enough for these bearings. I ended up picking up one at Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/large-b...ator-3979.html
Couldn't use the puller intended for my kit so I tried using a gear puller. It didn't work so I resulted to the press.
I have a bearing puller kit but it did not have a separator large enough for these bearings. I ended up picking up one at Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/large-b...ator-3979.html
Couldn't use the puller intended for my kit so I tried using a gear puller. It didn't work so I resulted to the press.
06-05-2010, 11:24 AM
#20
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