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What the heck is wrong? Replaced batt, now won't start & SLIP, ABS, TCS lights on
Problem began with air pockets in coolant system. Replaced thermostat, bled, and car ran fine.
Now for the last few days, the battery was dead and noticed a rusty, shiny metallic fluid leaking directly underneath battery. We got some heavy rain and car was parked on 30 degree incline with front facing up. Battery died without any previous sign of going low. Ran fine one day, dead next.
Battery had heavy deposits on posts btw.
So to make this as short as possible, I replaced the battery with NAPA equal. My brother drove the car down the street and back (1/16th mile tops) and said it made a funny sound.
Now the car won't start but has plenty of juice, i.e. lights come on and starter clicks quickly. I have the following lights on: SLIP, ABS, & TCS. Additionally, the A/C clutch keeps clicking once every 30 seconds or so without any key in ignition. Also, the A/C fan kicks on when key is placed in ignition even though fan and a/c are turned off.
I did get the car to start and ran it for about 30 seconds. During that time I had multiple lights on dash come on and the RPM guage didn't budge from 0.
Within last year had the Cam & Crank Sensors replaced.
Any idea's? I have no clue where to begin and currently no CEL.
"Now the car won't start but has plenty of juice, i.e. lights come on and starter clicks quickly."
So, when you turn the key to the start position, the starter solenoid just clicks quickly, but the engine doesn't turn over?
If that's the case, the system voltage is dropping too much when you put a heavy load on the battery. When it drops below what's needed to keep the solenoid closed, the solenoid opens, and the voltage goes back up to where the solenoid closes again. Over and over. It could be a bad battery, bad electrical connection, or something is wrong with the charging system.
The lights don't draw anywhere near the current that the starter does, so the fact that the lights come on doesn't really mean much.
You said the terminals were corroded. Get one of these battery terminal cleaners to get all the deposits off.
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All stock '08 Silver Touring Coupe 5AT. Under 3000rpms for 7000 miles...and counting.
They were badly corroded yes but I thoroughly cleaned all connections before installing new battery. I'll check power with voltage meter tomorrow. What is odd and makes me believe it is something more is the a/c clutch clicking nonstop.
At any point in this process, did you try to jump start the car?
As long as I've had my Z, I've never seen the slightest hint of deposits on the battery posts or connections. I find it odd that you saw major corrosion. Did you drive without the battery cover in place?
Since the car was sitting at a steep angle in the rain, any signs that water got in the battery box area, inside near the passenger foot well or the driver side kick panel?
I think you're right Dave. I managed to get the battery tray up and underneath was a 1/16 inch copper/black film underneath. Further examination revealed a fuse box which when removed, also showed signs of water intrusion. No sitting water was present however.
I'm going to find some type of cleaner for the electrical connections other than baking soda, check all fuses, and clean it up best I can. Hopefully that will solve the problem and prevent any further conundrums.
Let me know if you have any additional suggestions while I've got it all exposed.
There is a spray you can get to help get water out of electrical components, connectors, etc. You can probably get it at radio shack, home depot, or even a car parts store.
I think that fuse box also has relays in it - check all that stuff.
Compressed air might help to dry all that out too.
It definitely sounds like water got into your electronics. Get contact cleaner and make sure all your connections are clean and dry and you should be ok.
Water definitely got into the electrical connections under the fuse box. I cleaned everything thoroughly with electrical cleaner and then applied a little dialetic (sp?) grease to ensure no corrosion.
Started car up and ran just fine...for just a minute that is.
I turned the a/c on, blew cold and worked fine, then turned the a/c off and had it blow warm air. Then I turned the air off completely. I begin to hear a weird noise like a knock (not engine knock) and then came a belt squeeling LOUDLY. I immediately shut the car off and up from somewhere in the engine bay came a small cloud of smoke?
Now the only reason I ever touched the car was because it was overheating anytime the a/c was being run while sitting in traffic.
Is it possible that the a/c compressor broke before my eyes? Before any of this, it made an odd moaning noise whose noise level was dependent on RPM. The car made this sound after I finished cleaning the electrical connections even when the a/c wasn't on.
Also, when disconnecting or connecting the negative battery terminal, the a/c clutch clicks each time. I'm thinking this is what drained my battery. Any idea's?
Something is shorted out, probably a relay or the signal to the relay that triggers the A/C. You can probably disconnect the harness connector that goes to the compressor and that will stop if from actually kicking in. You're going to have to find some way to trace the A/C controls to determine where the short/problem is. Have you download a copy of the FSM for your model year? If not, there is a sticky at the top of the Maintenance forum http://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair-53/
Downloaded the FSM..thanks for the link. Haven't done anything to car yet so it's been sitting in the driveway for a couple weeks now.
In the next couple days, hopefully tonight, I'll located the a/c relay, test, and replace if necessary. From what happened most recently, noted above, I think there's a mechanical problem on top of possible faulty relay.
UPDATE: I pulled the a/c relay located behind the battery and the car runs just fine however I now have no a/c.
A call to the dealer revealed that the relay cannot just simply be replaced. Instead, I have to spend $560+ on replacing the entire IPDM (sp?) unit..basically the entire relay/fuse board behind the battery which a lot of crap connects to.
So I research the part (OMRON - Part No. G8VL-1A4T-Y) and cannot find it sold anywhere. I even wrote Omron and heard nothing back. I did however find Part No. G8VL-1A4T-RLDC12 which may or may not be the same since it appears the the former was produced for Nissan exclusively.
I had to stretch the truth and play like I'm an engineer about to place an order for 250 in order to get one sample sent out for $4.75. Please keep your fingers crossed in that this will fix my problem.
If anyone else out there may be in need of one, send me a PM and if it works, I'll try to order some more. Also, if anyone knows how I can get the exact part number, please post.
I feel like this is more of a diary than a thread but anyways...
Relay popped in just fine and a/c runs perfectly without the compressor clicking oddly. Also did an oil & filter change (mobil 1) so I know the car is feeling good. The car ran fine during a 20 mile test run. I'll probably need to add some oil when it's cooled off and I can read properly.
If it acts up again, I believe the problem is more than likely going to be the cam sensor. If memory serves more correct, the dealer only replaced one of them because warranty work only covers faulty parts. If that turns out to be the case, I reckon it's an easy DIY. So for now, problem solved however I wouldn't be surprised if I continue this diary a day or week from now.
What the heck is wrong? Replaced batt, now won't start & SLIP, ABS, TCS lights on
titanium ultraviolet 
