NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

After reading what Quamen said a big + 1. just some time and patience. Can't wait to see your build if it's anything like your car should turn out sick!

Colecatz I'm with ya on that although not as hot FL can get up there. Muggy humidity you know

Chris

SikkyMFG

iTrader: (2)

not sure who's saying ac doesn't work, but it most certainly does. Our kit is setup so the factory ls1 or ls2 ac compressor stays in its factory location. Then all you do is buy our ac line kit that comes with two lines, bolt em up, charge the ac system and call it a day. no biggie

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

Thanks bro for the kind words. i do plan on doing a intense build thread, almost like a DIY on how to build a LS Z, from long block to tube chassis.. be on the look out in the up and coming months...

@Sikky
I was wonder if you can send me a pm on the longtube header prices. Def want to rock all Sikky product.. Thanks

Armed Ferret

iTrader: (2)

I'd be down for a PM on the headers too, so's I can add it to my shopping list. And I'm local too.

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Thats we need. Along with a swap forum I know there was a good build(snyper who i believe was banned?). It is deff. needed.

Can't wait.

Chris

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

^^ yeah that is why I am doing it.

Also you can find Snyper thread on the LS1tech forum. And he just made it on the new modify mag cover.

SikkyMFG

iTrader: (2)

Pm's sent fellas

for the rest of ya


We have a couple options for the 350z/G35 LS combo.

1 3/4" primaries with 3" collector (mild steel) $650
1 7/8" primaries with 3.5" collector (mild steel) $695

1 3/4" primaries with 3" collector (ceramic coated)$945
1 7/8" primaries with 3.5" collector (ceramic coated) $995

these are in stock

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I have been giving this a lot of thought for a long time. I have a base and no issues with VDC/TCS, and I've already yanked the AC out since I just don't ever use it. I have no problems with wiring a new tach, and would just as soon replace the whole gauge cluster with a Stack-type unit anyways. I have the weights figured on both options, and with the cats gone and the battery relocated to the rear, this swap could even maintain factory front to rear balance with a lower front center of gravity. The nerd in me even made a decision matrix and a cost/benefit analysis between a LS swap and FI.

But, hell if I'm giving up ABS.

Will

Specv_USMC

iTrader: (1)

wow, just wow.... i sold my Z, for a silverado 5.3l... yeah so now im looking for a motoless shell and a LS

Im way new to the LS thing, whats the differences, power wise, from a ls1-7 or whatever number you guys stop with?

NA&CH

iTrader: (74)

Read his thread(s) over to cover numerous times along with Quamens.

Specv check out ls1tech.com a TON of great info.

Chris

RedlineAZ

iTrader: (50)

Someone should make a PROS-CONS list of going LS vs. FI. With prices, what is lost with LS swap (factory options on the z that can't be used anymore) and what is gained. Along with COMPLETE parts list and prices. Should be done by an unbiased, but knowledgeable person who has done the swap but has no financial motivation to promote either product.

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

While I agree the problem is that there are just too many options. Just look at the different variations of the motor alone and you can have a $3-4k price variation depending on the choice. Then add in what transmission you want and there is another $1-2k in variation. Most will go with the 6spd, but there are still the 3-4 four different models of automatics you can install.

Beyond that, nearly no one will do the swap and put completely stock parts in. Be it the transmission or the motor, the price will vary another $1-3k depending on the additional mods or swapped mods in place of OEM parts such as the intake, clutch and flywheel.

Even further beyond that, there are things such as keeping your air conditioning and paying someone to do the swap that will add even further expenses.

Bottom line, if you plan on buying decent parts and making most of the parts yourself, expect it to cost between $10-$15k. If you plan on buying a kit from a manufacturer and a higher end motor and tranny but are going to do the install yourself, expect it to be $15-20k. If you plan on having someone else do the install and put in a higher end motor and tranny, expect $20+k.

Like I mentioned before though, those prices can vary quite a bit depending on your part selection. For example, you could get a decent rebuilt TH350, new flexplate, new torque converter and a 5.3 LS motor for about the same price that a low milage LS2 motor costs alone.

Royal_T

iTrader: (9)

^^ yet again I agree with Quamen

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

+1 I agree with you...

Havok_RLS2

iTrader: (9)

^^^ I Agree with both of them.

dkmesa350z

iTrader: (41)

SikkyMFG

iTrader: (2)

Yes, Quamen is 100% right. From what we have seen, unless your getting a "fell off the truck" deal on your complete drivetrain you should count on the total package being above $15k. $20k would get you a really nice setup with plenty of extras.

Vas_Z33

iTrader: (39)

great job!!! Im gonna look close to this

trinityracer

iTrader: (3)

I've been researching this swap for a while and would prefer an LS swap vs. a TT kit or supercharger. The only downside is getting this through emissions b/c it doesn't unbolt like a TT kit or supercharger. I found out that Gm performance parts offers a LS3 e-rod package that comes with a CARB# and is 50 state legal. Does anyone know if this applies all swaps or is it just for hot rods?

LSX-PWR

Just ordered my 1 7/8 headers, master cylinder kit and solid mount rear bushings from Sikky. GREAT guys to work with, the parts should be in by mid of next week. As for the AC I am going to take it to a ac shop and have them build custom lines using the LS line. The ac compressor is already bolted to the engine and I ran in to no issues.