When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It is 100% possible, you just need to make sure your signal works and adapt the ac to match the rest of the 350z system. 2 aluminum TIG welds and poof!!! Adapted
Stock-ish , I'm building a street/drag car also, but mines a little different.
2004 350z roller
402 ls2 callies billet rods/ half inch head studs
Ported lsa blower and ported lsa heads
Goodies from nitrous outlet
Lots of meth
Built 4l80e
Fueled racing swap kit
Solid rear subframe and diff bushings
SP rear diff brace
Weld rts s71 rear wheels 15x9
Haven't decided on front wheels yet or tires yet.
I've almost pulled the trigger on a 8.5 second certified cage but can't decide if I want a cage or not.
Koni yellow front shocks
Hotchkis springs, still deciding on rear shocks.
Descent sized fuel system for now, until next winter when it all comes back apart.
Stock-ish , I'm building a street/drag car also, but mines a little different.
2004 350z roller
402 ls2 callies billet rods/ half inch head studs
Ported lsa blower and ported lsa heads
Goodies from nitrous outlet
Lots of meth
Built 4l80e
Fueled racing swap kit
Solid rear subframe and diff bushings
SP rear diff brace
Weld rts s71 rear wheels 15x9
Haven't decided on front wheels yet or tires yet.
I've almost pulled the trigger on a 8.5 second certified cage but can't decide if I want a cage or not.
Koni yellow front shocks
Hotchkis springs, still deciding on rear shocks.
Descent sized fuel system for now, until next winter when it all comes back apart.
That sounds really nice!
How much street are you planning on? Do you have et goals? I would consider what the priorities are before pulling the trigger on a cage. If drag racing is a must on your list than you deff need one no ifs about it. Any decent track wont even let you make a pass seeing that your car has potential for a fast ET but no mandated safety requirements to match it. If advice is welcomed i would consider your goals very well before caging, its an area ppl over build a lot. An 8.50 cage is not so intrusive, but if your goals are less ,than its even better to have less tubing, especially on a car that will see street time.
As for front tires, i never understood why guys want to run skinnies on the street lol try it and let me know what you think! On the track they are great and a great investment i think. I could share some of my experience with that if you like, my street wheels are 18x10s and 18x12s with 295f and 315r
I hate meth injection, i would rather run e85/e98. Buy it by the drum if its not locally sold, its really nice to fill up at home before going out lol!! It is cheaper as well.
Also if i may, on the koni shocks. There once was a built drag car, with a powerglide , making upwards of 1300rwhp. You know which one right?
It ran 8.80s, with a glide. Does that sound right to you guys? I truly believe its all in the chassis tuning. That car had the power to breach in the 7s with a glide.
The whole concept of import drag racing is wrong in my opinion. Cars with manual transmission ( not your case here but still applies) and IRS's are not meant to squat as every shop tells you it should!!! The goal is to transfer the weight to rear of the car and keep your suspension loaded at all times, instead i see drag oriented setups with very soft rears and stiff fronts , squatting and bouncing up and down like popcorn on launches and gear changes
Save your money there, you no longer have a VQ , your corner weights will be completely different than a built VQ. Especiallly if you consider any interior gutting and caging. Wait until your vehicle is done and approach a reputable chassis shop to help you select springs and shocks, even if it means spending a bit more on a custom setup, you will be happy you went that route.
That sounds really nice!
How much street are you planning on? Do you have et goals? I would consider what the priorities are before pulling the trigger on a cage. If drag racing is a must on your list than you deff need one no ifs about it. Any decent track wont even let you make a pass seeing that your car has potential for a fast ET but no mandated safety requirements to match it. If advice is welcomed i would consider your goals very well before caging, its an area ppl over build a lot. An 8.50 cage is not so intrusive, but if your goals are less ,than its even better to have less tubing, especially on a car that will see street time.
As for front tires, i never understood why guys want to run skinnies on the street lol try it and let me know what you think! On the track they are great and a great investment i think. I could share some of my experience with that if you like, my street wheels are 18x10s and 18x12s with 295f and 315r
I hate meth injection, i would rather run e85/e98. Buy it by the drum if its not locally sold, its really nice to fill up at home before going out lol!! It is cheaper as well.
Also if i may, on the koni shocks. There once was a built drag car, with a powerglide , making upwards of 1300rwhp. You know which one right?
It ran 8.80s, with a glide. Does that sound right to you guys? I truly believe its all in the chassis tuning. That car had the power to breach in the 7s with a glide.
The whole concept of import drag racing is wrong in my opinion. Cars with manual transmission ( not your case here but still applies) and IRS's are not meant to squat as every shop tells you it should!!! The goal is to transfer the weight to rear of the car and keep your suspension loaded at all times, instead i see drag oriented setups with very soft rears and stiff fronts , squatting and bouncing up and down like popcorn on launches and gear changes
Save your money there, you no longer have a VQ , your corner weights will be completely different than a built VQ. Especiallly if you consider any interior gutting and caging. Wait until your vehicle is done and approach a reputable chassis shop to help you select springs and shocks, even if it means spending a bit more on a custom setup, you will be happy you went that route.
My ultimate goal is to run an 8.79 for obvious reasons, which should be doable considering that a ctsv sedan with a less aggressive setup has ran an 8.9.
The car well be flex fueled (gotta love factory gm ecus) so it'll be running on e85. I run meth injection on my twin turbo vette and like it. It's basically cheap safety for pump gas, you just need a tuner that knows how to properly tune for it.
I have pretty much pulled the trigger on the cage it will be street driven, but I'm mostly building this car to take to the strip, so I just decided that I might as well do the cage now instead of when I get kicked out repeatedly by the track.
I think I'm going to run a 17x7 or 6 on the front with a 235 that way it's not a full skinny, so it should be a little better on the street.
I completely agree with you that everybody builds these massive horsepower ls and vq powered 350z's then puts a manual transmission behind the engine with a on/off switch for a clutch. With an irs car you need to be able to load the rear end before launching, and you need a very good clutch to do that with a manual.
Thank you for the suspension tips, I am thinking about leaving the factory rear shocks for now and just seeing what happens, or calling qa1 and seeing what they can build for me.
does anyone have any idea if the hinson kit or the sikky kit is compatible with the ls vortec 5.3l engines?
I went to the junkyard and saw many trucks with a 5.3l engine that has the cover as vortec. the guy told me that the engines are from the LS series....I am not sure if it is compatible with the corvette/camaro ls engines in terms of fitting in my Z....
In other words, the 5.3L vortec engines from the trucks will it fit the same as the ls engines from camaros and corvettes into the z?
does anyone have any idea if the hinson kit or the sikky kit is compatible with the ls vortec 5.3l engines?
I went to the junkyard and saw many trucks with a 5.3l engine that has the cover as vortec. the guy told me that the engines are from the LS series....I am not sure if it is compatible with the corvette/camaro ls engines in terms of fitting in my Z....
In other words, the 5.3L vortec engines from the trucks will it fit the same as the ls engines from camaros and corvettes into the z?
I think they are fairly swap-able but as far as every individual boss for the accessories you will run, if not the ones already on the motor being in place I'm not sure. There are subtle differences in bossed on the LQ9 and LS3, I had to drill and tap several bosses on my Mock-up block when i was mocking everything up. As far as motor mount bosses, I would expect them to be inthe same place and I would also expect an transmission that would bolt to a LS1-6 to bolt up to that as well, but I would inquire about a clutch for that motor.
LM7 applications 295 hp and 335 lb·ft, cast iron block and aluminum heads:
2002–2005 Cadillac Escalade 2WD1
2002–2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
2003–2007 Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana
1999–2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
1999–2007 GMC Sierra 1500
2000–2006 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL
2000–2006 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon
L59 applications 295 hp and 335 lb·ft, cast iron block and aluminum heads :
2002–2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 Package
2002–2006 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon
2002–2006 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL
2002–2007 GMC Sierra 1500
LM4 applications 290 hp and 325 lb·ft, aluminum block and aluminum heads:
2003–2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT
2003–2004 Isuzu Ascender
2004 GMC Envoy XL
2003–2004 Chevrolet SSR
2004 Buick Rainier
L33 applications 310 hp and 335 lb·ft, aluminum block and aluminum heads:
I have had this engine tick for a while now and have decided to go with an LS swap vs. rebuilding the VQ. I have done all my research and plan to do everything myself and I am new to this site and forums in general and if someone would like to direct me on how to start my own thread/post so you can watch then please advise me.
I will post all details of my route path and engine/tranny once someone tells me where to post and how.
I'm new isn to my350, really G35 driver is my place.
Say you have a pullout motor with harness and ECU, and a G or Z chassis unclosing engine harness and ECU... And you...
Tap into starter signal from Nissan ECU
Drill bungs and install Nissan wide-band sensors
Also install Nissan rear o2 sensors with de-fowlers
Disable all engine related codes on the Nissan ECU using up rev
Disable VATS and tune GM ECU with HP Tuners
Strictly speaking about wiring,
Would you be able to pass emissions with a setup similar to this?
Can we get a list together of what would be needed to DIY wire a swap with the OEM harnesses?
Emissions varies state to state. If your talking CA emissions then buy an EROD setup.
If you just need to pass a sniffer with and code read, grab a full LS with harness and plumb the evap lines to the Z EVAP Canister. Run the LS OBD2 port to the Z location. Use the Cats that come with the LS motor with the LS O2 sensors, you will have to cut, rotate and re-weld the pipes to get those to fit. Using HP tuners enter the VIN into the LS ECU, disable any errant codes that are not needed and undo VATS and then rock on.
There is no starter signal needed. Just use the wire from the body harness on the Z to turn the starter. The fuel pump should be wired from the LS ECU as well.
There are all of about 7 wires that need to go from the LS harness to the body harness, none of them going to the Z/G ECU. This increases with desires like A/C, OEM tach functioning etc.
Emissions varies state to state. If your talking CA emissions then buy an EROD setup.
If you just need to pass a sniffer with and code read, grab a full LS with harness and plumb the evap lines to the Z EVAP Canister. Run the LS OBD2 port to the Z location. Use the Cats that come with the LS motor with the LS O2 sensors, you will have to cut, rotate and re-weld the pipes to get those to fit. Using HP tuners enter the VIN into the LS ECU, disable any errant codes that are not needed and undo VATS and then rock on.
There is no starter signal needed. Just use the wire from the body harness on the Z to turn the starter. The fuel pump should be wired from the LS ECU as well.
There are all of about 7 wires that need to go from the LS harness to the body harness, none of them going to the Z/G ECU. This increases with desires like A/C, OEM tach functioning etc.
We'll the car has been done for a while but I haven't put it up on here. This turbo setup is for sale now as we'll going to a twin setup. Made 771hp/750tq on 14lbs with E85 all fab work on turbo was done by Nate at one-guys-garage.com
Yes truck engines are the same as a ls1. Pretty much. Mounts are the same and pretty much everything is interchangable. My car runs a forged 5.3 iron block
12-17-2014, 08:06 PM
