Review of RJM adjustable clutch pedal bracket
12-11-2011, 09:44 AM
#21
So, I installed my RJM just now, and I actually have a problem, but I don't think it is the RJM piece. My car was kinda hard to get into gear before, and when I installed the RJM, I had to nearly put it to 0 and the clutch rod is barely inside the threads, it sits pretty much flush with the bracket. I searched around alittle bit, and I am wondering if it is a bad slave cylinder. I have swapped over a CD009 and I have Redline oil in the tranny. I also have a SS clutch line, and it was bled when I had the motor out in June.
Also, if I rev it near redline, with the clutch pushed in and the trans in 1st, the car will start to move forward, it did this before, but I never really thought anything of it (lazy)
Also, if I rev it near redline, with the clutch pushed in and the trans in 1st, the car will start to move forward, it did this before, but I never really thought anything of it (lazy)
Last edited by Classy; 12-11-2011 at 09:49 AM.
12-11-2011, 09:52 AM
#22
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Classy, before you anything else go back in and drop the fulcrum point about an 1/8" from where you have it now. It definitely sounds like your not getting full disengament. Having to adjust the clutch rod all the way out is a dead giveaway. Is the friction point right at the floor right now?
12-11-2011, 09:56 AM
#23
You mean on the AFP?
The engagement points right now are actually pretty good, not perfect, but they work, still not easy to put in gear, and I just tried reverse, and I can barely get it into it... So are you thinking slave? I read in the instructions that 100-80% was bad, 75-50% is recommended and 0% is stock, I am almost at stock.
The engagement points right now are actually pretty good, not perfect, but they work, still not easy to put in gear, and I just tried reverse, and I can barely get it into it... So are you thinking slave? I read in the instructions that 100-80% was bad, 75-50% is recommended and 0% is stock, I am almost at stock.
12-11-2011, 10:05 AM
#24
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Oh wow, if your almost back to the stock fulcrum point then I'd say most likely cause is some air still trapped in the system from the ss clutch line install. I've read in a few places it can be a real pain to get it bled completely. Sounds like it was just borderline disengaging before with the stock setup.
I'd give the bleeding another try and see if that helps. Once thats resolved you should be able to get it up to 75% no problem.
Also just check that you don't have any of the floor insulating pad stuck under the bracket. That can hold the bracket out and mess with the number of threads showing on the clutch rod fork.
I'd give the bleeding another try and see if that helps. Once thats resolved you should be able to get it up to 75% no problem.
Also just check that you don't have any of the floor insulating pad stuck under the bracket. That can hold the bracket out and mess with the number of threads showing on the clutch rod fork.
12-11-2011, 10:13 AM
#25
The installation is right, it was a huge pain to bleed it before... I almost want to take it somewhere and have someone bleed it for me...
So, I put it to full stock and backed the arm out so it is less than flush and I have reverse again, it also is easier to shift
So, I put it to full stock and backed the arm out so it is less than flush and I have reverse again, it also is easier to shift
Last edited by Mike Wazowski; 01-02-2012 at 04:23 PM.
12-11-2011, 11:21 AM
#26
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Glad to hear its driveable again now. I would get it in to be bled again soon. Air in the system would cause exactly what your describing and not giving the slave its full stroke.
On mine even with the AFP set beyond the 80% range when I was testing I could get a full disengagement but the pedal needs to be set about 1" above the brake and the clutch rod threads just flush to the fork.
That extra available range from 80-100% is there for people running clutches that required the use of a stop plate to limit the factory travel. Running the factory or stock replacement type clutch in that range is possible but the pedal travel gets a little long which is why I don't recommend it.
Once you get the air out you'll be able to reset the AFP and really see what the kits all about.
Keep me posted.
On mine even with the AFP set beyond the 80% range when I was testing I could get a full disengagement but the pedal needs to be set about 1" above the brake and the clutch rod threads just flush to the fork.
That extra available range from 80-100% is there for people running clutches that required the use of a stop plate to limit the factory travel. Running the factory or stock replacement type clutch in that range is possible but the pedal travel gets a little long which is why I don't recommend it.
Once you get the air out you'll be able to reset the AFP and really see what the kits all about.
Keep me posted.
Last edited by NorthernG; 12-11-2011 at 04:28 PM.
12-11-2011, 11:41 AM
#28
I already love it, I am making some notes for your instructions, I was confused alittle, and I can see how someone without some mechanical knowledge might get confused in places
I am going to take it somewhere and get it bled, hopefully someone has something to power bleed it in like a minute
I am going to take it somewhere and get it bled, hopefully someone has something to power bleed it in like a minute
12-11-2011, 01:01 PM
#29
bleeding is best done like this. starts around 5 minutes. Perfect bleed every time
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
Last edited by str8dum1; 12-11-2011 at 01:05 PM.
12-12-2011, 07:51 AM
#32
bleeding is best done like this. starts around 5 minutes. Perfect bleed every time
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
12-14-2011, 02:45 PM
#34
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I actually had similar problem to Classy. Going to be trying dropping AFP to stock (gradually) and adjusting clutch rod to see if it helps. Also, after driving my clutch randomly got hella stiff and felt like 1-3 (sometimes 4) were partially blocked. But I'll see and update what dropping AFP to stock does. Regardless I'm getting the z checked out just in case to make sure there isn't anything severely wrong, you never know lol
NothernG I had also had a general question, after loosening the machine screws, it seems hard to accurately change the slider position. This is coming from a 6'1" guy who can barely fit under the dash lol but is that normal? Might just not be loosening the screws enough though
NothernG I had also had a general question, after loosening the machine screws, it seems hard to accurately change the slider position. This is coming from a 6'1" guy who can barely fit under the dash lol but is that normal? Might just not be loosening the screws enough though
12-14-2011, 03:03 PM
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chillah7889, try shifting the AFP down a little like we talked about and see if that helps. If it feels stiff make sure the clutch rod isn't angled too far down. It should be just slightly angled below level with the pedal up. If not you need to adjust the main bracket up to level out the clutch rod angle some.
As for the adjuster if the machine screws are loose enough the AFP should slide fairly well up and down in the tracks. If one of the 3 isn't out enough and still clamping the bracket down slightly it could cause it to be stiff so make sure they're all out evenly. The assembly is designed to lockup completely when you tighten the machine screws so the adjustment doesn't shift over time.
As for the adjuster if the machine screws are loose enough the AFP should slide fairly well up and down in the tracks. If one of the 3 isn't out enough and still clamping the bracket down slightly it could cause it to be stiff so make sure they're all out evenly. The assembly is designed to lockup completely when you tighten the machine screws so the adjustment doesn't shift over time.
12-14-2011, 03:52 PM
#36
I decided to leave it alone and I am going to be parting out the car in the next few months, I found something I want more than my 350z and is worth tearing it apart to get it. This clutch adjuster is pretty nice, with whatever the problem is with my clutch, it actually makes the problem much less noticeable
12-14-2011, 05:14 PM
#38
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I actually had similar problem to Classy. Going to be trying dropping AFP to stock (gradually) and adjusting clutch rod to see if it helps. Also, after driving my clutch randomly got hella stiff and felt like 1-3 (sometimes 4) were partially blocked. But I'll see and update what dropping AFP to stock does. Regardless I'm getting the z checked out just in case to make sure there isn't anything severely wrong, you never know lol
NothernG I had also had a general question, after loosening the machine screws, it seems hard to accurately change the slider position. This is coming from a 6'1" guy who can barely fit under the dash lol but is that normal? Might just not be loosening the screws enough though
NothernG I had also had a general question, after loosening the machine screws, it seems hard to accurately change the slider position. This is coming from a 6'1" guy who can barely fit under the dash lol but is that normal? Might just not be loosening the screws enough though
also, it took me about 5 minutes to pull this out of my car. It's almost crazy not to just unbolt the pedal, drop it out, adjust the fulcrum, and put it back in. The whole bracket can stay, just drop out the pedal. Took me 10 minutes total time to drop the pedal, adjust and put back in. I fought with it for 30 minutes trying to do everything and adjust the fulcrum while it was in the car. Just pull it out.
widened mine a lot. Now i can slip my clutch that used to be nasty on/off within 1/4"
12-15-2011, 02:27 PM
#40
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i had issues shifting as well.
I have a new master, a new slave, a new ss line and a TWM new shifter, a new JWT clutch and flywheel, and a cd009 out of a 2006 G35......and will be incorporating all these three threads as well as this current thread we are in when its install time:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...d009-swap.html
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...s-stay-go.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...alignment.html
As you can see, after ALL that work, the shifter does NOT just bolt back in place w no adjustment. Most ppl have NO idea about this.
Also, there are differences in shift forks and thrwo out bearings on the cd009.. read the threads.. see if you missed something, please report back into this thread..
fawk a plasti-dip/what wheels are these thread.. its threads like THIS one that are what really make this forum usefull.. good job so far everyone.
