Swapping a VLSD into Base. Some Questions
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Swapping a VLSD into Base. Some Questions
Hey everybody.
I did plenty of research, but I am getting answers from different threads so I figured I would just create a thread to ask and get actual correct answers.
I just picked up a MT 07 VLSD with about 60k to install on my 08 base with 40k.
Here are my questions:
1. Previous owner said he changed the fluid 2k miles ago. Should I just change the fluid anyways or just leave it for now. I plan on changing my tranny fluid probably next year so I would change the diff fluid as well at that time if I don't change it now.
2. I have the Nismo S-Tune. Do I need to remove my exhaust? The DIY thread I found here says to remove the mid-pipe, but on other threads it makes no mention of removing the exhaust. Just want to know before I drop almost $100 on gaskets since they only sell as a set.
3. I have to remove the sway correct?
4. The stock sensors and breather hose from my car will work on this pumpkin although my car is a base?
5. Cannot find much info on getting inserts. I would like to keep the stock bushings and maybe get inserts. Want to see the opinion on this. Not really wanting solid bushings with the vibration.
The car is a daily with occasional auto-x.
Thanks in advance!
I did plenty of research, but I am getting answers from different threads so I figured I would just create a thread to ask and get actual correct answers.
I just picked up a MT 07 VLSD with about 60k to install on my 08 base with 40k.
Here are my questions:
1. Previous owner said he changed the fluid 2k miles ago. Should I just change the fluid anyways or just leave it for now. I plan on changing my tranny fluid probably next year so I would change the diff fluid as well at that time if I don't change it now.
2. I have the Nismo S-Tune. Do I need to remove my exhaust? The DIY thread I found here says to remove the mid-pipe, but on other threads it makes no mention of removing the exhaust. Just want to know before I drop almost $100 on gaskets since they only sell as a set.
3. I have to remove the sway correct?
4. The stock sensors and breather hose from my car will work on this pumpkin although my car is a base?
5. Cannot find much info on getting inserts. I would like to keep the stock bushings and maybe get inserts. Want to see the opinion on this. Not really wanting solid bushings with the vibration.
The car is a daily with occasional auto-x.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I didn't notice any vibration with my solid bushings. At the least you should do some whiteline poly bushings. The stock ones are garbage.
You don't have to remove the sway bar.
Breather and sensors should be the same.
Unless you know the PO, I would change the fluid. Never trust a stranger.
Is there a reason you're going with a VLSD instead of a good LSD? I have a VLSD and it's not all that great.
You don't have to remove the sway bar.
Breather and sensors should be the same.
Unless you know the PO, I would change the fluid. Never trust a stranger.
Is there a reason you're going with a VLSD instead of a good LSD? I have a VLSD and it's not all that great.
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
I didn't notice any vibration with my solid bushings. At the least you should do some whiteline poly bushings. The stock ones are garbage. You don't have to remove the sway bar. Breather and sensors should be the same. Unless you know the PO, I would change the fluid. Never trust a stranger. Is there a reason you're going with a VLSD instead of a good LSD? I have a VLSD and it's not all that great.
I an going to order the Whiteline front and rear diff bushings and also fluid. Is it a pain to change the bushings?
I got a great deal on the pumpkin so figured I would try it and see how it goes. I am sure it is alot better than my open diff.
So I can keep the sway on. How about the exhaust?
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I'm sure it's far better than an open diff.
I've had my diff out and never messed with the sway, but I have a modified factory exhaust (muffler delete) and I pulled the whole subframe so I had to remove the exhaust.
The bushings were kind of a pain, the easiest way would be to just use a reciprocating saw and cut a couple spots and use a hammer and chisel to peel the bushing out. I tried using a piece of all thread and the installation tool to press the stock bushing out like you're supposed to be able to and snapped 1/2" all thread. Had to drill the hole out and use 3/4" and even then it stretched.
The front bushings I used the saw to chop the top flange off, then drove them out with a piece of metal I found the proper size.
I've had my diff out and never messed with the sway, but I have a modified factory exhaust (muffler delete) and I pulled the whole subframe so I had to remove the exhaust.
The bushings were kind of a pain, the easiest way would be to just use a reciprocating saw and cut a couple spots and use a hammer and chisel to peel the bushing out. I tried using a piece of all thread and the installation tool to press the stock bushing out like you're supposed to be able to and snapped 1/2" all thread. Had to drill the hole out and use 3/4" and even then it stretched.
The front bushings I used the saw to chop the top flange off, then drove them out with a piece of metal I found the proper size.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Nissan replaced my open diff not too long ago and to my knowledge they put new bushings, so I might keep the rear bushing in and just replace the front bushings on this pumpkin since it has more miles than mine.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
And I just noticed I didn't finish my thought earlier. I didn't notice any vibrations added from having a solid bushing. I can just hear the gears whine the faster I go and I can hear the slop in them when I shift.
#7
New Member
iTrader: (2)
I would slide under there and check it. Those factory bushings in the subframe rip easily. Then all the silicone leaks out and makes a big mess and then the bushing is pointless.
And I just noticed I didn't finish my thought earlier. I didn't notice any vibrations added from having a solid bushing. I can just hear the gears whine the faster I go and I can hear the slop in them when I shift.
And I just noticed I didn't finish my thought earlier. I didn't notice any vibrations added from having a solid bushing. I can just hear the gears whine the faster I go and I can hear the slop in them when I shift.
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#8
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I've put a few thousand miles on it since then (about 1000 of that at 80mph and then a few 130 runs on the highway) and haven't had a problem.
#10
Registered User
The tube and sensors are the same, no issues there. Change your fluid now, since it's just plain easier to do with it out. I've re-used the exhaust gaskets on my car before with no leaks. I don't know if you'll need to drop the exhaust or not since it must be a Nismo exhaust on the S-tune?
Here's a thread I have bookmarked for myself once the weather warms up:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...mp-either.html
Whenever you change from a rubber to a solid or even a poly bushing, the noise transmits through the car and to your ear. Ring and pinion gears do whine under normal circumstances, it's one reason why Nissan used rubber in the first place.
Here's a thread I have bookmarked for myself once the weather warms up:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...mp-either.html
Whenever you change from a rubber to a solid or even a poly bushing, the noise transmits through the car and to your ear. Ring and pinion gears do whine under normal circumstances, it's one reason why Nissan used rubber in the first place.
#11
Registered User
Hey everybody.
I did plenty of research, but I am getting answers from different threads so I figured I would just create a thread to ask and get actual correct answers.
I just picked up a MT 07 VLSD with about 60k to install on my 08 base with 40k.
Here are my questions:
1. Previous owner said he changed the fluid 2k miles ago. Should I just change the fluid anyways or just leave it for now. I plan on changing my tranny fluid probably next year so I would change the diff fluid as well at that time if I don't change it now.
2. I have the Nismo S-Tune. Do I need to remove my exhaust? The DIY thread I found here says to remove the mid-pipe, but on other threads it makes no mention of removing the exhaust. Just want to know before I drop almost $100 on gaskets since they only sell as a set.
3. I have to remove the sway correct?
4. The stock sensors and breather hose from my car will work on this pumpkin although my car is a base?
5. Cannot find much info on getting inserts. I would like to keep the stock bushings and maybe get inserts. Want to see the opinion on this. Not really wanting solid bushings with the vibration.
The car is a daily with occasional auto-x.
Thanks in advance!
I did plenty of research, but I am getting answers from different threads so I figured I would just create a thread to ask and get actual correct answers.
I just picked up a MT 07 VLSD with about 60k to install on my 08 base with 40k.
Here are my questions:
1. Previous owner said he changed the fluid 2k miles ago. Should I just change the fluid anyways or just leave it for now. I plan on changing my tranny fluid probably next year so I would change the diff fluid as well at that time if I don't change it now.
2. I have the Nismo S-Tune. Do I need to remove my exhaust? The DIY thread I found here says to remove the mid-pipe, but on other threads it makes no mention of removing the exhaust. Just want to know before I drop almost $100 on gaskets since they only sell as a set.
3. I have to remove the sway correct?
4. The stock sensors and breather hose from my car will work on this pumpkin although my car is a base?
5. Cannot find much info on getting inserts. I would like to keep the stock bushings and maybe get inserts. Want to see the opinion on this. Not really wanting solid bushings with the vibration.
The car is a daily with occasional auto-x.
Thanks in advance!
2: Look under the rear of your car. If your exhaust is blocking you from removing the differential, it will have to come out.
3: I didnt remove sway bar.
4: Breather and sensors are the same
5: If you drive your car hard, you will want to replace the differential mounts/bushings. The rear one breaks with lots of racing. Its also a huge pain in the *** to remove... the rest of the work for your diff swap will feel like a good 'ole time compared to the frustration in getting that rear bushing out.
#14
Registered User
I used a portable ball-joint press to push my front diff bushings out. Didnt take too much force to get them to start moving. But I am not exactly sure how I would have pushed them if I didnt have that tool.
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
Update. I bought Whiteline bushings and 2 quarts of Redline 75w90.
Before I open the drain and fill, are there washers I need to replace like on the tranny or I just have to reuse the plugs?
Sorry for the stupid questions, just want to make sure I have everything before I do the swap. I would hate for something so small to ruin my day.
Before I open the drain and fill, are there washers I need to replace like on the tranny or I just have to reuse the plugs?
Sorry for the stupid questions, just want to make sure I have everything before I do the swap. I would hate for something so small to ruin my day.
#17
Registered User
Yup the washers are reusable plenty of times.
Generally I clean them up / scuff them a tad with a scotchbrite pad then wipe them clean before putting them back in.
Generally I clean them up / scuff them a tad with a scotchbrite pad then wipe them clean before putting them back in.
#18
New Member
Thread Starter
Just changed the oil last night so it's done before the install.
Pretty straight forward change. Only thing that caught me off guard was that once I hit the fill level with the new fluid, it took FOREVER for the overfill to come out. At least 15-20 minutes. I was slowly filling also since I didn't want to overfill and stopped as soon as it started coming out.
Torqued both the drain and fill plugs at 28 ft-lbs. It seems like this is correct, although some people say 55 which I think is too high. 28 seem right?
Putting the diff in next weekend.
Pretty straight forward change. Only thing that caught me off guard was that once I hit the fill level with the new fluid, it took FOREVER for the overfill to come out. At least 15-20 minutes. I was slowly filling also since I didn't want to overfill and stopped as soon as it started coming out.
Torqued both the drain and fill plugs at 28 ft-lbs. It seems like this is correct, although some people say 55 which I think is too high. 28 seem right?
Putting the diff in next weekend.
#19
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/cou...adster/RFD.pdf
RFD-19 - Both filler plug (24) and drain plug (27) are 25 ft-lbs.
RFD-19 - Both filler plug (24) and drain plug (27) are 25 ft-lbs.
#20
New Member
Thread Starter
Update:
So I did the swap with a buddy of mine yesterday along with changing the tranny fluid. Took about 3 hours of work, but that was with us taking our time, and having some issues removing my midpipe where 3 out of the 4 bolts snapped when trying to loosen them.
After first driving impressions, the only thing I regret was that I did not do this earlier! The car feels like a whole new beast! I have so much more grip, it put a huge smile on my face yesterday!
Also, I used the Whiteline inserts instead of the bushings since the bushings looked good on the diff and my rear bushing was good. I definitely feel a difference between the stock bushings and the stock bushings with the inserts. The rear feels very solid, but does not give any vibration.
So I did the swap with a buddy of mine yesterday along with changing the tranny fluid. Took about 3 hours of work, but that was with us taking our time, and having some issues removing my midpipe where 3 out of the 4 bolts snapped when trying to loosen them.
After first driving impressions, the only thing I regret was that I did not do this earlier! The car feels like a whole new beast! I have so much more grip, it put a huge smile on my face yesterday!
Also, I used the Whiteline inserts instead of the bushings since the bushings looked good on the diff and my rear bushing was good. I definitely feel a difference between the stock bushings and the stock bushings with the inserts. The rear feels very solid, but does not give any vibration.